scot'teryx

It smelled pretty nasty actually, but that's because we found andrew irvine

It's only the 2nd time ive been up there this year if you can believe that, the last time was january i think and i was skiing.

I think I read in a recent mag that the AAI or someone thinks that it is a good idea to tie a hitch every ten feet or something like that inbetween your partner and yourself which will create friction on the lip of the crevasse if someone does fall in

Why the hell would anyone consider this route? I don't have any idea, but MysticNacho, myself, and Aaron decided to go try it out last saturday since I had heard from a few people that you can get in about 1.5 pitches of 5.6 in a dihedral or something like that. A short approach and good views sounded enticing, especially the late start we were able to make. (TH @ 12 noon) The trail was packed as always, and once we got below the saddle we veered left and gained the Frozen lake plateau, which is not frozen this year. The granite up in this area is so awesome, pearly white, and you can't see it from anywhere on the trail system. Once up there the north face seems imposing, and we tried to pick the appropriate line. We scrambled up some slabs bypassing a ton of junk and trash, literally a ton! Before we knew it we were directly beneath the Lookout Tower and we spotted a line that looked pretty fun. Our assumption was wrong. I won the lead and headed out with my trango boots, and before I knew it it was harder than expected. The little edges did not work too well with my boots, so I continued up this dirty and brushy area to a belay. I brought the other 2 guys up and the Aaron led the last bit out that was a dirty 5.8 hand crack that could be sweet if it was clean, and then an offwidth chimney that brought us to the summit and got to the belay at the lookout tower. During the last pitch we had an apple core thrown down at us and a few rocks tthat wizzed by our heads. I must say that we picked the worst line up the face, and when we were up there I noticed plenty of sweet cracks that could be sent if cleaned. Has anyone else out there spied this area before? Here's Nachoguy at the belay:

AKA "Gaper Ice" Wait till late season when it gets dirty and bulletproof! That's the best time to go!

BD even gave me permission and shit to use that image ............hizzo for my bizzo yo.

You don't need gear for the route, just sling the trees and horns! I like having a #1 and #2 for the climb. Nothing else is needed.

Mounties are so suck!

More information here: MAC II Race Information

It's all hand holding in the intermediate class, books and experience are the best IMO. The knowledge I have gained in the past year has been from other climbers that I look up to, and others that are learning as well and we share information. They told me how they screwed shit up, what not to do, and shoved the john long books in my face. Find a mentor and learn from them and their mistakes. The intermediate climbs are pretty stupid from what I have heard. You really want to go climb "Gaper Rock" and lead "Sabre" with the Mounties? YUCK!

SATURDAY September 20 12-20 hour route

One move wonder for a guy that has a wing span of 13 feet!

we are definately gonna due the east ridge, looks like a fun route

Heading up this Sunday to go for the East Ridge direct or just to do the West Ridge. Does the East Ridge "go in a day" moving at a moderately fast pace? Not sure if they take the same amount of time. Is there a bergshrund to cross like the west ridge? Danka...

I'm not going to be team hc, that is what I was asking you guys.

Not too sure just yet The route last year was cool, but riding bikes on the MLH really sucked. So we thought about a start at alpental and up and over by melakwa lake, down to denny lake TH, then bike to the iron horse trail and down to the mcclellans butte trail and up and down that sucker or another peak in the area, then bike into north bend for the finish I am guessing this could take anywhere from 8-14 hours????

It's in the works I guess. I got a futures issue that has no beta but routes and grades and it is pretty cool. It seems some of the harder routes on WWI are not rated correctly sI was told by this guy that I belayed on a 13c last weekend. True Sporto! Fun place though.

If anyone is interested this year, we are going to be doing 2-4 person teams, and it will most likely be the Alpental to Denny TH/Iron Horse trail bike/McClellans Butte/North bend bike to finish. If anyone is interested or has some ideas, please feel free to email me at scott@nwog.org The date is TBD, but will be sometime in mid september Who wil Team HC be?

www.allofmp3.com Russian site that pays royalties to musicians, yet full CD quality albums cost about $1.50 I have been using it for about 6 months now and no complaints

That shit is so freakin rad!!!!!! I dont remember getting asked permission for the Prusik photo!

Very cool Lowell. I have been wanting to read that book and passed it up last year at a bargain book store. Gotta go find it again. BTW - Is it a worthwhile trip to go do all three fingers? Is it quality rock (anyone?)

But I'm a "sprayprentice"

Left TH on Saturday morning at 530am after getting rained on in our bivies on Friday night????. First 1/2 mile of trail was easy but overgrown. We reached the main fjord of the river and it was quite easy to cross, rather low. Made our way up to Cougar Falls and then through the Avi Debris to the first meadow with no problems. (Just a ton of logs and debris to cross every 100 feet it seemed) We passed a Mazamas group campsite where the scree hill is encountered and went right up a steep heather slope and then onto some snow. Stay left instead and follow the climbers trail that we did not see. After that we were totally off route and climbed some snow in the gully that ran out at a few places and had to downlclimb some snow and onto the heather slopes and ascend the wet granite slabs and snow slopes to the SE ridgeline. The climbers trail is way east of the basin and that slowed us down by taking the wrong route. Once at the ridgeline the sloan glacier is sighted along with the summit. We contemplated where to get onto the glacier, whether or not to do the high traverse or do a low traverse. We started the low traverse and wound up zig zagging forever, running into dead ends etc, lots of gapers out there as well! After we found a decent route, my friend Jessica (Alpine Chica) fell into a small crevase through a snow bridge, no big deal as we were 4 on a rope and she was in the middle. We finally reached the beautiful granite slab of the east side of sloan and got on the ridgeline. We ran into a group of mazamas with huge packs at that point as they started to head back to camp. It was 130pm and we decided that we had to start hauling ass to make this thing happen. The 3rd scramble is very easy. Mostly a climbers trail at the start, then a chossy gully that is sandy, one 4th class move IMO, and then a 3rd class move here and there. We reached the summit, took some pictures and headed down. We thought that a straight traverse across the top of the glacier would be best and the quickest, so we headed out and found ourselves running into some gapers that we were able to negotiate, and then a rock band stopped us dead in our tracks. John downclimbed some wet slab and over a moat that could have ate him up. The rest of set up a sling on a large rock and a bail biner to lower ourselves off of (Booty for Fence Sitter!). That took way too long, and alpine chica was new to glacier travel so she was a little slower and more timid than the rest. We reached the ridgeline and glissaded down to fresh water and hopped onto the climbers trail that was smooth sailing all the way down to the mazamas camp. We went as fast as possible from here on out, but did not reach the river fjord until 830pm. The trail back to the cars from there winds around here and there and was hard to follow at times, and we got lost a few times, but the main thing to do is to follow the orange ribbons. They will take you the right way every time. We got to the car at 9pm, exhausted............. The drive back home sucked, I might have been driving worse than a granite falls drunk.

Sergio and I got in between a mother black bear and her a cub about 3 weeks ago out on clark mountain. Luckily we did not surprise her, but she made plenty of noises and did the Jurassic Park thing through the trees. We moved real fast after that........

Info here: http://www.sverdina.com/jack/jack1.htm