Went up on Sunday morning only to find a group of highschoolers camped at the trailhead, literally. Their tent was right in front of the trail, next to their campfire . Tempted to get their lic plate and report the fire but decided they'll get theirs somehow.
Fast approach to Lake Elan (or Vesper Lake) and then down the chossy hillside to the Glacier. Just as we had suspected, the moats looked pretty big. We had only brought crampons and no ice axes, and the glacier was rock hard ice. We then decided to go to the ledges and start the route up higher. The ledge system appears to be pretty creepy, but all in all it was no problem to get on the route.
We got the start of the climb only to find out that Adrien had forgot the pro in the car and all we had was 6 slings, biners, and his 3 hexes. He led all 3 pitches up the dihedral with no pro, and some pretty poor belay stations, but easy cimbing, and alot of fun. Since we were a team of 3, it took a bit longer than expected. Reached the summit at 430pm, and then headed down to the car at 5pm, reaching the TH @ 7. Unfortunately the descent went slow since I hurt my ACL (?) in my knee.
Good climb though, next year I'll go back to do the entire route, if those lower pitches are really worth it.
What about a direct route from the start of the dihedral and then a straight line to the summit. Lookes like some good overhanging hand cracks and such.
Anyone ever check it out?