highclimb
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Everything posted by highclimb
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thank you. i think ill wait and do this when its a little colder Aidan
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nobody knows anything!!!?!?!?!?!?! nobody has been up there this year? thanks, aidan
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Enough on the Miles Smart ad, this is not a porn site!!!
highclimb replied to Rodchester's topic in Climber's Board
jon, if you would check the times of the posts they are all after 4:00. they might be working, they might not be, so you shouldn't jump to conclusions. they didnt mean to put you down they just dont want another advertisment to be put on the site when another slide show rolls into town. i also agree is was annoying and would prefer if no one puts another ad on in the future. Aidan -
yeah thats what i have heard cool thanks for the first had knowledge Aidan
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Alpinek, thanks yeah i have heard the guano chimey is full of shit!....guess its true is the approach to the north ridge hard it lloks alfully exposed. Wolf, what does that mean? just wondering? Aidan
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Paul, nicely said Aidan
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Wolf, hahaha. dude if smelly poly pro turns you on ....you need serious help and i feel srry for your climbing partener when you two get back in the warm car after a nice, long, sweaty day of climbing in the north cascades, with a long drive home...... i dont even want to know....hahaha Aidan p.s. anybody here been to the Tetons ever? anyone done the north face of the grand? or BLACK ICE COULOIR!
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Hey Dru, you cant forget Deprivation on the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter, VERY COOL! Aidan
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no one else whats to share......(snif) (snif)..heh
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Does anyone have route info/current conditions/pics of the mountain? thanks Aidan
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True, True
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yeah those guys on the NY gully came back fine. it was Colin (he posts here regularly) and one of his climbing buddies i forget his name. the conditions of the route are as follows: no ice at all just snow covered rocks, and they couldnt find the aid pitch....weird huh? i was at home sitting on my ass looking at climbing books and my partner was out there haveing a blast without me!!!!! lame huh?...hahaha. Aidan
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Geordie and Wolfboy, thanks for sharing. Aidan
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David Parker, your right bolts do save lives Aidan
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I agree with Rodchester and Jim, let them choose for themselves. but i also need to say that i think the people who have replyed dont under stand the point. dane talked about bolting a route that is thin ice. the smallest screw is 10 cm. now thats thin. and if anyone is climbing of stuff that is thinner, they are wrong in the head. for example steve house climbed a pitch on Howse(sp)peak, he called WI6. it was thin ice that turned it to extremely thin ice at parts it went to the second tooth of his picks. now that is scary. and although he is an awsome climber, i think he was wrong in climbing the pitch. if he had fallen he probably would have died, or been seriously hurt. but back to the point. leave the bolts for the sport climbers. Reinhold Messner called bolts " the murder of the impossible". now if you ever encounter thin ice that cant be protected traditionaly (i.e. pitons, ice screws, cams etc.), then is wasn't meant to climb and you should back down and go find some nice fat plastic blue ice Aidan
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i have heard some good things about them and some bad. they dont hurt your buget and i hear the stink pretty well. the bad thing is that replacing a pick on one of these is more difficult that BD tools Aidan
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Texplorer, Steep Ice: BD BP's, BD CFBP's, Grivel MAchine (but they vibrate like a mofro), CM Quasars but Wade Meyer says they are discountined Alpine routes: the Black Diamond CFBP's are the best(light) but unfortunalty they were costing BD to much to make and they discontiuned them now i would say that the grivel Geronimos(sp) the BD Shrikes or the BD BP's(these tools do weigh alittle more than the others) would be the best for Alpine routes Aidan
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geordie, you been out climbing lately? in the mountains around marblemount? Aidan
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as colin said Rambo's all the way. and i seriouly doubt that Axars are lighter that rambos. you might have been thinking of the Machine. the rambos are on of the lightest(good) tools on the market. they are 24 oz. and the axars are like around 28 of something Aidan
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My Cousin and i went to climb this beutiful peice of ice on new years eve. it was great there was no one in site except for some campers that left after we arrrived. we first started bouldering on some ice in a little coldusac behind the falls (you'll see it on the trail going down to the falls) it was pretty good ice but a little brittle. then we tope roped the main falls and climbed them for like 4 hours strait what a way to end the year Aidan
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are you a north cascades native? you seem to be up there alot. Aidan
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i hope to be in the tetons, north cascades and Charmonix. the bugs.....sweet (drool) i really want to do the northbuttress of Mt. Terror. it looks yummy Aidan
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Colin, Your crazy man! Scricket! the peices on the link look like tubbular picketes (similar to CM tube pickets?) and by the lookes of it these things wouldnt go into rotten ice that well. to big? and plus if you are climbing on ice that wont even take an ice screw then ice is gunna be falling and you might want to get out of there, just a thought . Aidan [This message has been edited by highclimb (edited 02-08-2001).]
