highclimb

Texplorer, Steep Ice: BD BP's, BD CFBP's, Grivel MAchine (but they vibrate like a mofro), CM Quasars but Wade Meyer says they are discountined Alpine routes: the Black Diamond CFBP's are the best(light) but unfortunalty they were costing BD to much to make and they discontiuned them now i would say that the grivel Geronimos(sp) the BD Shrikes or the BD BP's(these tools do weigh alittle more than the others) would be the best for Alpine routes Aidan

geordie, you been out climbing lately? in the mountains around marblemount? Aidan

as colin said Rambo's all the way. and i seriouly doubt that Axars are lighter that rambos. you might have been thinking of the Machine. the rambos are on of the lightest(good) tools on the market. they are 24 oz. and the axars are like around 28 of something Aidan

My Cousin and i went to climb this beutiful peice of ice on new years eve. it was great there was no one in site except for some campers that left after we arrrived. we first started bouldering on some ice in a little coldusac behind the falls (you'll see it on the trail going down to the falls) it was pretty good ice but a little brittle. then we tope roped the main falls and climbed them for like 4 hours strait what a way to end the year Aidan

are you a north cascades native? you seem to be up there alot. Aidan

i hope to be in the tetons, north cascades and Charmonix. the bugs.....sweet (drool) i really want to do the northbuttress of Mt. Terror. it looks yummy Aidan

Colin, Your crazy man! Scricket! the peices on the link look like tubbular picketes (similar to CM tube pickets?) and by the lookes of it these things wouldnt go into rotten ice that well. to big? and plus if you are climbing on ice that wont even take an ice screw then ice is gunna be falling and you might want to get out of there, just a thought . Aidan [This message has been edited by highclimb (edited 02-08-2001).]

Beanie Weenies?!?!!?! Aidan

Thanks goatboy. how did you come up with that name anyway? i starting to seriously concider the BW Excellences but if anyone out there knows of flaws in them please tell. Aidan

i'll second danielpatricksmiths post. mmmmmm summer Aidan

I am disappointed about the lack of snow and ice this winter season. i have only been out climbing twice. the only thing thats getting m through these tough times are the dreams of summer adventures. i was wondering what summer adventure was or is your favorite and if you have any suggestions? Aidan P.S. i know this is kinda early to be thinking about it haha

Dane, yeah i have noticed that, its crazy! just sit back think about what you are climbing: this isnt yosemite granite we are talking about ITS FROZEN WATER AND YES IT CAN BREAK AND IT HURTS LIKE A B#@%*. to all those people out there who have gotten away from am iceclimbing outing without a helmet concideryourself lucky. Aidan

i agree with Ade about the hard shell helmets. i have an Ecrin Roc. i have been hit my a rock the size of a grapefruit, luckly i had my helmet on or i would have been a bloody mess. the helmet absorbed the impact very well. of course i had a spliting headache for an hour afterward. but other than that i was fine. i always wear a helmet when i am in the alpine enviroment. its like a pair of crampons or and ice axe. its a must have. and strongly suggest everybody feel the same way. safe climbing Aidan

The south spur was the first Alpine climb i ever did. i dont recommend it just because its isnt technical at all (1000ft of snow to 30 degrees and alot of hiking) but i have heard good things about the Adams glaicer and maybe you might concider the Lava Glacier Headwall. Jim Nelson talks about it in his new book. Aidan

i dont know how its forms but i just cant wait to get on it this summer! Aidan

if i buy double ropes i wont buy the BD ones. way to heavy, like 58 grams a meters. ill buy bluewater. 48 grams a meter. Aidan

Snow, not that i know of, but i think he is sponsored by BD Aidan

you know what this has become a rant session between Num1mc and I (see gramaticaly correct )instead of Mark Twight so lets just stop it and get back to the main point of the Message Post. Aidan [This message has been edited by highclimb (edited 02-05-2001).]

Num, i know your right. its just i am not the best speller, thats all. Aidan

Colin, that sucks. BD is getting into a downward spin: first they stop making CFBP's and BP's and now this, what is the world coming to! Aidan

thanks brad.......and hey numnuts i am srry about all my gramatical mistakes(english is my worst class) Aidan

Black Diamond says you shouldnt use the CFBP's or BP's as your belay or part of your anchor simpily because they arnt very strong. i use the BD lockdown leashs. for alpine climbs they are the best. they combine comfort and the fact that they are lightweight. for pure vertical waterfall ice i wouldn't recommend them because the process of taking them on and off is awkward. Aidan

hey dane climbing magzines print mark twight stories like once or twice or the spand of two years so you shouldnt get so picky, but anyway i used to feel the same way about Mark Twight, a elitist prick that doesnt give a damn about anything else but the route and yes he is but he also brilliant. before i found this new born respect for him i thought he was a crazy guy with no life that just climbed the hard stuff but then i bought his book Extreme Alpinism and started reading it. his ethics and tactics toward climbing the hardest routes start to make alot more sense. and i also think that we shouldnt put down people for how they act, i also agree that he shouldnt have left his garbage on the mountain and he should not put down climbers who arnt up to par with him i know i am not and might never be. lets just remeber that climbing is what connects us all, its what we love and its what we(maybe just me) wait all week to do on the weekends. so lets just stop the put downs now. Aidan

i need a new rope(s). i have thought about buying a half(double..your prefrence)rope system just because it reduces rope drag, put less impact force on your gear and is less likely to have a system failure. i was thinking of the bluewater Exellence. any suggestiong? disagree? input? all is welcome thanks Aidan

thanks for the info Aidan