goatboy

OK, now we're back on track - nice work, Ivan!

This thread, which could have been great, has failed miserably.

lots of new snow falling now, maybe keep the snow routes in shape a little longer...

Have you seen the Blair Witch Project?

It was so bleak they didn't even make it through the TR I guess.

I missed it. Was it great?

As previous mentioned, bring your bathing suit if you're going to J Tree in July. You'll be heat-struck and laying comatose in Barker Dam the whole time.

Agreed, definitely an ethical question.

So, if the family removed that info from the blog in order to decrease their liability, it's not really in their best interest to re-post that info here I imagine, despite its marginal educational value. True?

It's possible to get unemployment benefits without "scamming" it. The benefit you get will be based off of a calculation of what you've made over the past few years, and that money has already been paid by your employer into a fund that you can apply to collect, or not. But the catch is that to be eligible, you have to actually be SEEKING employment elsewhere, which it sounds like you will not be. Is it any surprise that a group of calculated risk-takers would advocate for taking this time off to go climbing for a year? Did anyone really expect the sounding board to counsel that this fellow should blindly march into old age, mortgages, kids, and other lockstep expectations of our society? On that note, I say go for it and take the year off, don't burn the bridges, collect unemployment if it's legitimate and appropriate (usually not unless you're actually seeking work elsewhere...) and have fun. But have a plan for "reentry" into your regular life at the end of this finite trip.

There's nothing in that edgeworks story that specifically states whether he was wearing a helmet or not. There is conjecture in subsequent posts, however.

Il adore la raclette et la tartiflette

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/946518/Nordwand_North_Face_Movie#Post946518

Hope I can make it up to this!

Ahh, thanks for the clarification . . . I've read bits and pieces about the events on which this movie is based, but is there a definitive account of it published?

For Seattle folks: I saw this movie yesterday and really enjoyed it (in an excrutiating sort of way). It tells the now-famous tale of Austrian and German alpinists in the 1930's making attempts to do the FA of the NF of the Eiger. Needless to say, there is drama and high-angle suspense (especially if you don't know the whole story on which this is based). There is a book about this climb, by the way, called "The Climb up to Hell." The movie has been bashed a bit for a lifeless romance as a subplot, but that's not the reason to go see it. The footage of actual climbing, scenery, and their attempt to replicate old-school climbing techniques and equipment, is outstanding. I highly recommend it. Currently playing at the Harvard Exit Theatre at somewhat inconvenient times (3:45 and 8:30). I also noticed that Olympic Mountain Rescue is showing this movie as part of a fundraiser (details in a separate thread under events). Official Trailer: [video:youtube]

I think this route is indeed a variation on a previous route, but not a Burdo route (though it is in his out-of-print old guidebook). Burdo calls the formation Blackhorse Point. The route just to the left of the obvious prow is called "Pampas Drifter" (III-IV 5.8). "This handsome stranger rides loosely just left of the prow of the main buttress. Begin at the lowest point and bypass ledges to the side to gain a long, sustained 5.8 finger crack on pitch 3. Continue upward, eventually angling right to a dihedral below the obvious white headwall. A dramatic turn on the right of this feature leads to easier ground." I will try to scan the topo later. Sounds to me like Jordan's route may well be a very close variation of the original line (Doorish and Cudcowicz, 1990)

Please keep the submissions coming! Thanks!

Lovely place, thanks for posting! Looks like Joshua Tree rock in a way! Was it sharp, full of big crystals? As for the tattoo, I believe those are referred to as "tramp stamps?"

With the low snowpack this year, count on water sources to be a little thinner by mid-summer I expect...

I made my first batch of beer today - a GLUTEN-FREE IPA (using sorghum extract and three types of hops). We'll see how it turns out!

THANKS to everyone who has already submitted images. I'd like to reiterate that we are mostly seeking OLDER images (i.e. 70's, 80's, even 90's), since CURRENT images are easier to come by. However, we welcome any of your images of the listed routes. Thanks! Steve

The NWMJ (NWMJ) is soliciting photos for an upcoming feature story about glacial recession and its impact on climbing routes in the NW. The intention is to compare older photos (i.e. 70's-90's, or even older is great) with more recent images. It's important to try to find pictures that fairly illustrate the change or lack of change in given routes, so late-season photos (i.e. Aug or Sept) might better illustrate that change than comparing April 1975 to April 2010 (probably very similar due to snowcover). We have compiled a list of suggested routes/regions which might best serve this purpose. - South side (unnamed) glacier on Forbidden - Formidable north side glaciers - North side of northern Pickets (Fury, Swiss, etc) - North side of southern Pickets (McMillan Cirque glaciers) - Dana glacier on Dome - Colchuck Glacier (access to Serpentine Arete) - NE Face Fury/N Buttress area - Torment, glacier access to SE Face - Buckner N Face Couloir (not standard N Face proper) - Price Glacier, Shuksan - NW Face N Ridge Forbidden - N Face Maude - Kautz Glacier on Rainier - Colonial and Neve Glacier - steep and cracked If you have relevant photos of other routes in other (NW) regions, those would be welcomed as well. We will choose from the total compilation and publish only some of the submissions, with the author's permission. There is no compensation for getting your photo published other than the fortune and glory of being a part of the NWMJ, and the envy of your peers. To submit photos, email me at alpinejustice AT gmail.com and include: MONTH AND DATE and what ROUTE or REGION is pictured. Feel free to reply to this thread with suggestions for other routes/regions, or questions about what we're seeking. Anyone that wants to post their (relevant!) images here in this thread is also invited to do so. Thanks in advance, Steve

Looks like a great adventure!

I've climbed a little bit of the roadside stuff there in Riggins. Absolutely nothing to get excited about, but perhaps worth a stop if convenient or passing through. But overall, nothing special. Perhaps, not worth the effort.