TimL

Awesome Will! We'll keep an eye out for you.

Matt- We'll all have to get a site. Chris and I will be arriving late Friday night. Looks like the weather will be good. Yosemite stories.... I remember a fond occasion on the East Butt of Middle Cathedral when my partner dropped his smokes on p2. We continued to the top. I never saw someone so happy and move so fast down a descent gulley... Ring-tailed cats...... gotta love'em

Right on Matt! See you down there on the big stone.

Good stuff at the Eastside pub club. It was great to meet everyone and funny as hell to see Fred Beckey sign the bra John Juan brought from his wife. Cavey - did you pass out in a gutter somewhere or pass out in the womens restroom thinking its the mens?

Wayne - Good luck up North! That day called summer happens on Friday when I grab the pig, cast off from work and head to the Valley for a couple weeks! [ 05-07-2002, 02:19 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

If Jon Juan says the NW Brewhouse then lets drink at the NW Brewhouse. Is that the brewhouse across the street from the Wamu in Redmond?

Cavey, Awesome. Haven't talked to those guys in a while. Maybe they'll show up? Raf & Hats? Kevin "the Vantage high stepper"?

Ethical purist...elitist....bad ass mofo.... My vote is for Royal Robbins

I'll should be there to get wasted with fellow Eastsiders. Although can't arm wrestle since I blew a shoulder out last weekend.

Wallstein - I replaced it with a donation of webbing from Fred Rogers that day. [ 04-29-2002, 01:45 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

I haven't found out anything nor went over to see if anyone was climbing above for obvious reasons. Our party heard big rockfall coming from the Tatoosh/Quarry area on 4 separate occasions. The first time I might have imagined someone yelling "rock" but the last 3 times I heard nothing except crashing and banging. On the 4th occasion I saw a block impact about 25-50 out in the debris funnel of the Quarry area further down and out towards the RR tracks from the Thin Fingers area. Needless to say most of the stuff coming down looked and sounded like "take you and your family out" sized rockfall. I've heard spontaneous rockfall from that area about 5 year before in the winter. Also, there could have been climbers in the area knocking stuff down while climbing Tatoosh/Freedom. I've heard a rumor of a new aid route in the Quarry area to the left of the huge nasty corner and right of the Tatoosh. Could of been someone cleaning the new route as well. Before going to the area I would scope it from the train tracks. Brain buckets are never a bad idea. As civilized as the Lower Town Walls may seem, I've been there on several occasions when larger sized stuff has come down in the area. Especially in the area of Rogers Corner and the above said Quarry area. But, I also without much effort pulled a golf ball sized rock from the upper pitch of Jap Gardens. Also, whoever liberated the equalized slings from the pitons before the 1st crux on Iron Horse please leave the new ones in place. If you want webbing, I have the phone numbers for several gear shops handy.

I think in the old Index guidebook at the end there is a reference to Index climbers who have died. I believe there is a reference to a fall down Asgard Pass. Maybe worth checking out.

Hey Projectwussy - Thanks for the amusement. Go kick your dog next time. Maybe you can show up at the base of the SCW and have a Mud Falcon swoop down on your head? Goatboy - Thanks. Most times I would just check it out. This weekend my friend got a hall pass before his new baby arrives so I want to maximize climbing vs. fucking around time. Thanks.

Anybody head back there last weekend or get a chance to check out route conditions? Is the snow patch on top still pouring down Outer Space & Hyperspace? Thanks.

A fine weekend was spent on and around the walls of Squamish this weekend with many friendly and funny cc.er's. Hightlights: Watching Ed and Erik escaape from the Grand with a turtle in pursuit. Onsighting both pitches of Exasperator and Rutabega. Many thanks to my belayer for having the patience on Rutabega while I worked out the technical crux and Squamish crux (slimy, wet dirty shit in the crux finger locks) Beer guzzling at the brew pub with cc.er's Almost killing myself while trying to play hacky sack. Getting woken up in the middle of the night by an evil little critter going through our food. Observing Erik (the gear tester) destroy a brand new BD microcam Finding divine inspiration at Nightmare Rock! Belaying my partner and fellow bolt clipper up many proud leads! and last but not least....the fine Canadian women! [ 04-22-2002, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

How bout forgetting the rope?

Erik - I can't believe your not going to mention your great escape from the Grand after the kids got rowdy. I've never seen someone rap a wall that fast before in my life.

[ 04-22-2002, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

Anybody do Outer Space yet this year? Going to take a friend up there for his first time on route this weekend. Is the route dry yet? My guess is the descent gulley still has snow?

Its so funny how all of these small obscure, forgotten about lines are stirring such a huge controversy. But its not actually about the climbs, after thinking about the issue it comes deals with a much larger issue. In regard to several folks in the climbing community using chest beating tactics to advance their views, they are only taking away from PNW climbing and doing no good for the climbing community. The scare tactics used by the above folks and radical standpoint in the issue is no way to further a constructive solution. In the same realm, a "you suck" attitude achieves nothing as well. These scare tactics need to stop for the sake of the climbing community, land owners and everyone else involved. A small extreme minority with a certain radical view point may eventually hurt the majority if this continues. The larger issue in which I was thinking about yesterday involves 2 parts: 1.) The growing pains on the PNW climbing community and 2.) balancing the history of ethics in the LW area. Granted with increased use of the area, ethics are going to change. I do think the change should reflect and respect the history of the area. I understand there will be pockets of extreme groups on either side of the issue, but nothing productive or positive will happen unless a desired balance is attained. Since climbers pride themselves in a general lack of higher organization or authority, several scenarios could happen. In the long run the problem will handle itself for the better or worse by the groups involved. In a turn for the worse, land owners could get pissed and close climbing areas. I would hope through web or personal discourse the problem could be handled on its own. I have never been an advocate of mass bolting. I wasn't happy to see DDD bolted but neither was I happy to see it chopped. I was not happy to see the Dogleg variation bolted. In regard to the Dogleg variation, I tried to lead it on gear. I found out it is doable but rather ran out. I ended up clipping 1 bolt at the crux. Obviously in my mind, except for a few hardmen, the bolted variation would be hard to naturally protect and for the average climber would be undesirable/dangerious to lead without a certain number of bolts. I think a good balance in terms of the Dogleg variation would be at the time of its conception to bolt around the places were gear is available and leave naturally protected areas bolt free. Granted , I would not of liked to of seen the climb bolted, now that its done the damaged needs to be minimized. I don't think it needs all the bolts and believe it would be a fun mixed climb. I'm sure I'll see plenty of you guys out there climbing. Maybe then we can kick around the issue. My 2 cents have been thrown into the mix. As for now, this topic is draining and I'd rather concentrate on actual climbing.

Great another topic on bolting. Thanks for adding fuel to the fire Pope. Pope and Mitch - you guys suck. Maybe Retro, Pope and Bill Robbins can get together and have a crow bar 3 way. Retro - Correct me if I'm wrong, but you've sunk several bolts into Leavenworth rock. JY crag ring a bell? Retro - Who the fuck made YOU the moral conscience of Leavenworth climbing? From your spray, its seems like you've done more to take away from Leavenworth climbing then top add to it. I see nothing positive about your statements. I've never been an advocate of bolting natural lines. With all this talk of "restoration" I see a witch hunt attitude being taken that can only be a hindrance.

[ 04-17-2002, 01:17 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

[ 04-17-2002, 01:17 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

Maybe if I bolt Icicle Road at -5.15 Retro & Pope could get their love bars out and have at it. Bolt the Planet!!!!!!!!!!!!

The best route in the vicinity of Peshastin is driving right by it en route to the higher quality shit rock at Vantage.