dan_e

MSR makes plastic bottles for storing fuel. I have two that hold 32 oz. each and have a pouring spout inside. As for stoves my vote is for the MSR Whisperlite International. The XKG does boil water faster, but I like to have the option to simmer and it boils water fast enough for me. I've never used butane stoves. I've also been using one of those titanium pots, which work well.

Maybe we all do use this site to vent our frustrations, this is why almost every post has some negative comment. I am guilty if this, as many of you are. I would say the majority of us don't like the growing crowds and the commercialization of climbing, but what can we really do about? Will not using this site help? I doubt it. I've learned to deal with it, although I've had some tough moments. I believe someday the numbers will stabilize or even drop from where they are today. Still, I will be out there climbing, until I die (hopefully of old age)!

This touches on an interesting topic that should be explored more. I agree and disagree with some of the comments. I do think that there are many amazing young climbers out there, and some of them might actually climb into adulthood. What about the stories of 16 kids with advanced, acute tendonitis? Many kids have the advantage of a high strength to weight ratio, but if they push to hard at that age there is a good chance they won't be climbing hard when they 30. I agree with 'W' that there are few modest climbers nowadays, it seems that many new climbers want to climb to brag or to win a trophy. The greatest thing about climbing is that none of that matters, I compete with myself and no one else and climbing has never been a 'sport' in my opinion.

I wonder how small ropes can get and still be safe? I don't think I will ever use anything under 7.5 mm as trying to hold ropes smaller than this in a fall would be like holding on to dental floss. I am actually going to stick with 8 mm as my minimum.

I would do that, as long as the ropes are not going through the same biner. The piece may indeed be loaded at different times. I would only do this on bomber pieces. I like the idea of clipping in each rope to a piece that's close together, I may start doing this more with those sketchy pieces.

I say we throw all of that out and use the New England rating system of: "It was easy" or "It was hard"!

That guy apparently knows what he is talking about and has confirmed that I have been using half ropes correctly. I have decided however to now climb mainly with twin ropes. Clipping alternately is a pain anyway and requires an even more attentive belayer. Like he mentioned in the post, the correct use of slings should eliminate or at least help reduce rope drag. Crossing half ropes is also a problem when clipping alternately. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 04-03-2001).]

I was recently going through my meager camming unit inventory to decide what sizes I need more of, when I realized two of the cams that I own have slings that should be replaced. Of course like any other nylon product, sunlight, abrasion, and age have helped wear these slings enough to make me wonder about their strength. So my question is, who can do custom bartacking around here? I was told Rainy Pass Repair does, but after calling them, I am not sure if they would be a good choice and besides they only have black webbing. I don't want to have to send them back to the manufacturer to have this done. It was so easy back east, I knew of a couple of places that did this, so I would be surprised to learn that know one can do it here.

I can't believe it! I must have some sort of shielding against them. I've been to Snow Creek Wall numerous times, and considering the nasty bushwack down last time, I am amazed I've never even seen one! I am also possibly immune to Giardia, since I have been drinking untreated water for over ten years with no sickness. I was told you can carry it and not feel any ill effects. I am not sure how true that is though.

Thanks for the info. What a hassle though. I was thinking of using a strong 7mm cord with a double-fish, not as strong as a new piece of webbing, but I can replace it whenever I want.

I passed through Yosemite on my way to WA in 1996 and spent the night, back in the day when I could sleep in my truck that had a canopy and a custom built sleep deck. The campgrounds were full, so I simply found a road, drove down it, parked and spent the night. What a peaceful night that was, sure beats the noise and stench of those overcrowded campgrounds.

I wonder what ticks are attracted to? I have never had a tick on me in WA state and I've been to areas that are supposed to be crawling with them. I am I lucky or do I smell funny to them, I hope it's the later.

I've been wondering how a fall would be on the crux of Online, I guess know I know. Didn't you guys know, the same rule applies on friction as in ice climbing and that is DON'T FALL! cause if you do it's always going hurt! No major falls for me in ten years of climbing, but I've made up for those in epics! (still I am knocking on wood right now).

Does anyone know how the fit is on those Lowa Triolet's? I have a wide foot (bunions) and they appear to be fairly narrow. My Lowa Civetta's are pretty narrow, but I only use them for ice climbing. Great price for boots that retail for $160, but the color has to go! I would make these dirty in a hurry.

Here's my finally summary for these leashes (00/01 season) THEY ROCK! Serious, the webbing appears to wear quickly since the buckles are all metal. I think they will last one more season though. I agree with Ade that they do get snagged sometimes when trying to grab screws, ect. Dropping tools, nah. Again, I agree with Ade, it's possible with any leash. I would like see the spring tension increased and maybe protect the areas where the webbing enters the buckle. I will be climbing with these next season for sure!

The tubes are designed so you can remove a tool without taking off your pack. This feature has saved my butt at least once that I can remember. I had custom ones made for my Dana Alpine, hardly a weight issue. I just bought the Lowe Alpine Vision 40 for one day alpine climbs/hikes. It's really light and is not loaded with extra straps and crap. For around $75 (at REI) it's a great deal.

Granted I won't lose any sleep if these guys don't make it back alive, but it's not that I don't care or that I am a cold hearted person. We all make a choice as climbers to risk our lives everytime we go out, it could happen to any of us at anytime, anywhere. Hell, I was close to being stung to death by killer bees recently, this shows that you never know how or when your time is up. As far as experience goes, that's a tough call. Maybe they don't work and been climbing solid for one year? How do we know? You could do more climbs in one year and gain more experience that a weekend climber might in five years. I was told that I was crazy wanting to climb Denali after having never been higher that 6288', but I felt that I was ready. Fact is people die everyday and there is not much we can do about it, but I think when we make light of it or have the "I don't care" attitude it's because deep down we are worried that it might be us someday, regardless of our experience, be it one year or thirty.

Granted I won't lose any sleep if these guys don't make it back alive, but it's not that I don't care or that I am a cold hearted person. We all make a choice as climbers to risk our lives everytime we go out, it could happen to any of us at anytime, anywhere. Hell, I was close to being stung to death by killer bees recently, this shows that you never know how or when your time is up. As far as experience goes, that's a tough call. Maybe they don't work and been climbing solid for one year? How do we know? You could do more climbs in one year and gain more experience that a weekend climber might in five years. I was told that I was crazy wanting to climb Denali after having never been higher that 6288', but I felt that I was ready. Fact is people die everyday and there is not much we can do about it, but I think when we make light of it or have the "I don't care" attitude it's because deep down we are worried that it might be us someday, regardless of our experience, be it one year or thirty.

Experienced or not, they have been out six days now and must be hurting or, well you know.

Experienced or not, they have been out six days now and must be hurting or, well you know.

I've been using the Air Tech Racing axe for a couple of seasons. It's not the lightest, but it's damn light. I would go with the Grivel since it has a steel head and can be used to climb ice, it also has more of an aggressive pick than most. Grivel does make a lighter one with an alloy head as well. I am sure either one can be used as an anchor.

What kind of bees? Frozen maybe?! As you can tell I only use mine in the winter, for ice climbing. I've heard bees don't like red, makes me happy I was not wearing red in AZ!

If twin ropes can be clipped into a single biner, than why can't you do the same with double ropes? The sheath can't be that much different. I use BW Ice Floss for ice climbing (always clipped together) and BW Excellence for rock (clipped together or separate). Does anyone have any hard evidence that this is a bad idea? Something from a rope manufacturer or testing from the UIAA?

I use the 60m ice floss for ice climbing. I like them, although they do tangle easier than larger diameter ropes. They also have a soft sheath feel, but seem to be wearing well.

I just got back from Arizona where my friend Leo and I had a scary experience! We were about to start the fourth pitch of Wasteland (an excellent 5.8 in Southern AZ) when we started to hear a soft hum (we were at a belay station under a big roof) the sound got louder and louder and finally we looked at each other and said "bees"! luckily we did not panic, I told my friend "Don't move, don't even breath!" we both stood there, tied in at the belay station, completely motionless as a swarm of what was most likely killer bees passed over us. There were so many that they blocked out a good portion of the sky! A dark, humming cloud of death is the only way to describe it. A few of them came close to us as if to check to see if we were a threat, luckily they decided to move on and within seconds they were gone. All I can say is this was one of the scariest moments I've had climbing, and I've had many epics. So if you happen to head to AZ to climb in the future, just know they are a real threat!