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dan_e

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Everything posted by dan_e

  1. Beck, I agree with you on the swiss army, since that's what I use (for climbing). I disagree about the big knife comment, although a large knife is not necessity for climbing, there are times where I carry my "big knife". It's a beautiful S.O.G. specialty knife, with a 7" blade. I had it with me when backpacking in Denali NP and also while solo hiking parts of the AT. It's nice to know you have something to defend yourself with and hell it's great for survival if you needed it. Of course having a gerber multi-plier, large swiss army, or leatherman is great for extended trips or expeditions. I also happen to know quite a bit about "the woods" and I can tell you having just a swiss army knife is better than nothing, but not so great for bigger jobs. Dan E. - Resident big knife using hillbilly.
  2. Dangerous or not soloing is the purest form of climbing, before ropes and safety gear were invented mankind climbed this way, but probably for necessity not for fun! My rule is I only solo climb at least one grade below my normal ability, this offers me at least some measure of safety. I solo mainly on ice, since I am a better ice climber than rock climber. I love the feeling and can't imagine not doing it, even as I get older. I think it's interesting that some climbers 'lose their nerve' as the get older, not just for soloing, but for all types of climbing. I seem to get bolder as I get older, I think mainly because I've worked up to it. I don't think many people start soloing when they first learn to climb, it's something you work into. I must say watching someone like Peter Croft is simply amazing, he has nerves of steel! [This message has been edited by dane (edited 06-22-2001).]
  3. Oh yeah and they do a great job as we can all tell from the paved path that leads from Paradise and the thousands of people stomping on the surrounding meadows! Why doesn't the NPS limit the amount of visitors? Hikers are only a small fraction of the total people using the park. There are people (myself included) that know how to camp with minimal to no impact. Why should we suffer because, as you should know "the masses are asses"! The NPS needs to find a more flexible and creative solution to this problem.
  4. That total sucks, I like the old system better. I was there in 1996, I showed up at the ranger station, told them where I wanted to camp and that was it. I think it was mid-June, only one night did I have someone at my camp and they ended up dumping some food on me since they were a bit heavy and I was traveling light as usual. I am not sure what I would do now, I think if you are creative you can find places to camp off the trail. It all depends on how you travel. I just bivy so I can find a place almost anywhere. Good Luck!
  5. I now carry a small swiss army knife (weighs next to nothing and has other tools) while climbing, mostly to cut slings, but you never know what else you may need to use it for. "There was a frayed end on your rope and I was cutting it out!" - Andrew Meyer
  6. I have a Mentor which has proved to be a decent harness, the Momentum does not look much different. I have always used BD harnesses (the Alpine Bod's and my first modern harness the "X Harness") and they work great. If you want something a bit more high-tech, check out Petzl's new Harnesses. The Corax is the one that looks the oddest and it has an double back buckle system, which to me does not seem fool proof, but hopefully it's been tested! Good luck
  7. So what is the question? Apparently the first post got out of control, as usual! I've done Rainier in a "Single Push", and what I can say is that lack of sleep was not a factor. What is a factor is that your ascending to 14,000' from almost sea-level (for most of us) in one day. This means you have no chance to acclimate. I remember at around 13,500' we rested for just a couple of minutes and I was feeling a bit light-headed, mainly due to the fact I was not breathing as hard while resting. So if you do it in a day, do it fast so you can beat the altitude sickness. My friend only had a slight headache at the summit, but the longer you take the better chance you have at getting some form of altitude sickness. The first time I did it was with my friend Leo, he had just moved out here from back east and we wanted to climb Rainier together (it was my first attempt, he had been on the route before this). We though we had everything for a std. two day attempt, but I forgot the stove! So we decided to try it in one day. We left at around 3:00 am and made it to Muir in just under two-hours (we were pleased, as this is pretty fast). Side note to all the speed climbers: we had 'real' mountain climbing gear with us, insulated leather boots, steel crampons, and good sized day packs with ropes, extra clothing, ect. but no bivy gear. I don't believe in climbing a 14,000' peak in running shoes, regardless of the weather or time of year. I know we could have climbed a bit faster if we did, but climbing is not a race. The only reason to climb fast in my opinion is for safety and this holds true even on Rainier, for several factors like rock/icefall and weather. Well, to include what Mike said and to add a few items for what I do on one-day ascents: - Get an early start, climb as much as possible in the dark. (traveling by full moon is perfect). For Rainier try to be at Muir before sunrise. - Try to do it under perfect, or near perfect conditions (cold/clear on the night before and clear, but not too warm during the day) Also, be smart and turn around if you see the weather starting to going bad. - Stay hydrated! Bring a camelbak type device. - Keep calorie intake up and consistant. - Also, pick a turn-around time in case you don't have what it takes on that day.
  8. dan_e

    calories

    I've always hated PowerBars, since the first one I tried to eat many years ago, I puked after eating only 1/4 of it. Now I use Clif Shot packets when I am going for speed, my stomach gets upset easy and these digest really easy. Make sure you take one every 30 minutes, I never seem to remember this. I also like the new Clif bar flavors, they taste like candy bars and have all the good stuff in them. The new flavors are the "Ice Series", give them a try.
  9. Thanks!
  10. Does anyone know if there is a link that has the weather forecast for Denali, preferably the one that climbers get from basecamp? I have a friend up there and I want to track his progress which will of course be dicated by the weather! Thanks in advance. Dan E.
  11. Thanks for the input, it sounds like your injuries (mikeadam) were not that severe though, there is no way I could run or even hike for that matter and it's been over a month. This is my fifth sprain on the same ankle, the second severe sprain. The problem with ligaments is that once stretched they stay that way and you will always be prone to sprains. I was told that I will only be in a cast for 6 weeks (I have fractures as well). What the surgery will do is tighten those ligaments, which will over time improve ankle stabilty.
  12. Since I am going under the knife on June 11th I was wondering if anyone here has ever had surgery to repair stretched/torn ankle ligaments (for you technical or doctor types, specifically the ATF and CF ligaments). I severely sprained my ankle in April and I have been of the rock since then (yes, I am going crazy!). I want to know how the recovery was and how long before I might be able to climb again. Thanks in advance.
  13. duh! [This message has been edited by dane (edited 05-22-2001).]
  14. One easy way to avoid the crowds, go late season. I did this in 97', sure we almost got killed, but there was only one other team on the route! It's a blast trying to get on the ridge in late August, and watching rocks fly by you as you ascend to Thumb Rock, and don't forget that surprise storm that pins you at 13,000' for the night! I LOVE CLIMBING!!!!!
  15. dan_e

    Greed

    This is a tired topic, we all know there are crowds and we know they will be around for a while. You need to find ways to work around the problem, or try (good luck) to solve the problem. I think the numbers will peak someday, when the ones who picked it up as "the current fad" will move on to other things. I've been climbing 10 years and I intend on climbing until I am no longer able, but this does not mean I have more of a right to be out there than someone who learned yesterday. On a side note I think this planet needs another mass extinction!
  16. Well after a quick search on the net, I located his name in the staff at MIT. I am only assuming this is the same Hugh Herr, since there were references to "The Leg Laboratory". I don't know much about his personal life, so the rest is up to you, good luck! Here are the links: http://www.hmcnet.harvard.edu/pmr/faculty.html#hughherr http://web.mit.edu/bin/cgicso?query=hugh+herr He is an amazing climber. When I hear his name I think of a him on this sick 5.12+ X climb called "Stage Fright". There is a pic of him on this route in a NH rock climbing guide. I've seen this climb first hand and it's an inside corner with a finger/finger tips crack in the center with smooth granite for sides, and it's eXtremely difficult to protect. [This message has been edited by dane (edited 05-21-2001).]
  17. I've heard several *negative* comments concerning Dave Page from guys at climbing shops, personally he has resoled 3 pairs of my Scarpas and I've had no problems. Maybe he has some people working for him that are not very skilled?
  18. I think Teogo is confusing spectra with kevlar cord. The old high content kevlar cord is prone to damage from repeated bending. My hexes are still slung with kevlar cord, pretty cool stuff since it's much stiffer than spectra and make for easier placements. The kevlar cord required a triple-fish, and it probably won't hurt to use the same on the spectra cord. It looks like they still make cord using some Kevlar fibers, but the amount used is probably less that the original Kevlar cord. Maxim makes this stuff "5.5 Specta/A Cord" It's about $1.15 a foot though!
  19. The biggest complaint as other have mentioned is the guide book size. I don't understand why the guides in WA are so huge. The guide books back east are small enough to take on a climb. We would even drill a hole in the upper left corner and put some cord through it so it can be clipped on a harness. I've even seen guide books pre-drilled for this purpose. That's my, $.02 - Thanks for your work Viktor!
  20. You noted that you were "scared" to move higher than 10,080' on Rainier, if so choosing Liberty Ridge for your first climb above that height may not be a good idea. I always choose the easier route when climbing a big mountain when possible, mainly so I can get a feel for things. What's to stop you from climbing Rainier twice this season? Do the DC or the Kautz and then try Liberty Ridge if you feel up to it. It's not a super technical route, but it's hard to retreat when your on the ridge and later season the rock fall danger increases.
  21. It's true, and sad (the website, ect.) I hope he knows enough to leave the laptop and all the other crap at home and concentrate on what matters. Who knows Denali might decide to show him some of its "Harsh Realm" and this may humble him a bit! [This message has been edited by dane (edited 04-30-2001).]
  22. Okay, it was me. I was going to post yesterday, but I spaced it. First, I want to thank all of the climbers and my friend Adam that were there and helped me out, it goes to show that in a time of need we all help each other out. Here's what happened: I was descending a steep gully to the right of Bathtub Dome, the gully had some loose rock and was wet so I was trying to be careful. I had my left foot and left hand on a good hold and I put my right foot on a small hold that had moss on it. I had not planned to put much weight on it, but when I moved my right hand to grab a flake, my left hand came off and I barn doored. I tried to grab something as I was going down, but it was no use. I never blacked out, I could see everything as I cartwheeled down the gully. I felt my head slam into rock twice and actually saw my right ankle fold in as it hit a rock before I finally came to a stop about 40 or 50 feet down from where I slipped. I am amazed and really lucky that I did not receive more serious injuries. I did not break my ankle and the cuts in my head only needed one stitch each. That's about it, I will of course be more cautious when descending, as we all know that's when most accidents happen. I also plan to submit my accident to Accidents of North American Mountaineering. This is my first serious accident in almost 10 years of climbing. The best news of that day, I did not get one tick on me! I still think I am immune!
  23. Did this route on Sunday, here's what I thought of it: Positive: Some interesting moves, from the start and higher up on the 9 and 10 sections. Great views of Dragontail, Colchuck, and Stuart. It's cleaned well and is basically a nice line on good rock. Negative: It's WAY overbolted, the worst part of that being bolts near places were pro can be placed (I clipped about 1/2 of the bolts, except on the 9 and 10a section). Too many belay stations, pitches too short (every two pitches can be done in one with a 60m rope). Summary: I think I see what the guys that put up this route were trying to do, but it's just not the place to do it. Even one bolt scars the rock, but that many really detracts from the beauty of the rock face and makes the route to easy to follow. I hope no one chops the bolts though, as this will only make things look worse. Lets hope the guys who put this route up read our posts and learn to maybe scale back on their next project. That's my $.02 [This message has been edited by dane (edited 04-23-2001).]
  24. dan_e

    anchors away

    I was there last year and i don't remember seeing that tree, that's wierd, sounds like it's hard to miss.
  25. In August of 1996, my friend an I witnessed what can happen when two are roped together without pro. This was a big epic, but I will leave out the details, refer to the accidents book for specifics. A party of two were decending the Emmons ahead of us, the guy closest to my partner who was ahead of me fell over while cleaning his crampons. The snow was garbage so self arrest was impossible. He fell past his partner, dragging him as he past. The both landed on the edge of a crevasse on steep ground. One of them died, the other was injured. The guy who fell was not very experienced. The guy who died was a guide and very experienced. We self-belayed the entire way down, a tedious way to descend, but it was the only safe way. I would never do this with more than a team of two, mainly due to the added weight and more people=more chances for error.
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