chucK

So did anybody get out and do anything fun last weekend?

Don't you guys just think that most of the time when people (even climbers) "how was your weekend" or whatever, that really, they don't give a sh*t. They are just being personable. Any explanation over 30 secs is going to be met with eye-glossing.

NO IRAQ WAR !!!

Correct again brainiaxe. I'd bet the Doctor and many others who read this board would rather you'd just DO IT instead of talking about it.

Right. Some people don't find humor in some things. Why the whining? Do you require everone on this board to find you amusing?

I think that is called "latent homosexuality". No thank you. I do not want to sit in a hot tub and eat crab with Alpine K.

Went to Crystal today. It was total glorious sunshine and no crowds at all. The lift tix were $5 cheaper today for some reason too. Maybe it was raining before I got there. What is all this I am hearing about rain? And what is all this crap dissing football? I can agree with idiocy of sitting around all day watching it, especially paying a whole shitload of cash to sit with a jillion other people and watch it, but football is a pretty pure sport, and is cool as a game too with all the tactics involved in manipulating 11 players all taking off at once. Get all your buddies and smash through the opposition toward a goal. The way you stop the other guys is to throw them to the ground. The only way you can get much more pure is boxing (or rugby). They sorta trashed the purity though when they added that stupid forward pass and all this anti-taunting garbage.

Yeah! But it's dirt cheap!!!

The cost is 1.9 million to change traffic signs and improve some of the lanes because they're not made for people merging in and out of them. The net gain in terms of easing traffic is thought to be zero. from http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/transportation/90954_hov12.shtml

Yeah, Like a couple mill to open the HOV lanes during non-peak hours. That's money well spent

You could probably set up two ATC's one on each lobe and belay four climbers simultaneously!

The ratio of Eastsiders to Ballardos is probably similar to the ratio of their respective distances from home. I wouldn't call it wimpy, I would say they just got unlucky they live so far from Pub Club.

The Latona is cool. Then everyone is happy right? Am I RIGHT!!!! I believe that one would be very hard-pressed to show a relationship between going to a smokey bar one night a week and adverse health effects, so I think Iceguy is overstating the point in the health aspect a bit. However, it is hard to argue with the people that say they don't like the smokey hair and asthma symptoms. If they don't like it, they don't like it. Some people will just deal with a little more than others. Just like some "climbers" get all pissed off at having to sidehill some steep talus for a 100 yards, some pub-clubbers get upset if someone is smoking somewhere in the bar. Some pub clubbers get all whiney if there's a fern in the bar or the pitchers cost 14$. The most smokey pub-club I've been to in a while (I didn't go to Teddy's the last time) was when the CC.commers took over the basement of that place on Dexter that Icegirl likes so much. If you didn't get my inference here, let me specifically state that the most smokey pub-club I've been to was at one where the CC.commers furnished all the smoke! Hell, at the Lockspot there was way more smoke outside the Pub than inside!! Anyway, I feel this is a divisive issue that will not be solved via namecalling. Let's not get all elitist and dismiss the smoke-weenies. I say we just flame 'em a bit more, then go to one of their suggested bars. See if any of 'em show.

You can clip two of these puppies into a "stiffy" dogbone sling and have some real cute dog-motif draws

You should have told him, "OK, now take up the slack." Then once he'd pulled the entire rope through the device you could've failed him.

Yeah, Matt (P) what did you do? Did you step on rope to hold it down while switching hands while doing that belaying between your legs trick? Did you forget how to tie your knot?

Yeah man! smoking=climbing !!! Am I right!! Am I right!!!! Dwayner, the smoker made your clothes smell better. Smoker's live for that smell. They LIKE it!!!! So anyway, I don't think you're gonna sway many smokers with that one and all... Dave Shuldt, You suck! Leaving Uncle Tricky out there on the curb to smoke. Breaks my freakin' heart!! You wanna send UT out in the cold once a month. Have some consideration.

I really love how there doesn't seem to be any limit to the amount of images you can put in a post nowadays

Howdy partner. What brings you to these parts? I'm the new sheriff here and I suggest if you wanna do some sprayin' here you might wanna jus' be movin' along. 'preciate it.

I think you hate it when people ignore you.

Maybe you could state it again? No amount of detail will help. There are enough clever sprayers on this board that could easily pervert any clearly defined rule to license to spray. You should clearly present guidelines (that I must have missed before, so maybe they weren't that clear ) then adjudicate. Learn to live with people bitching and give them a fair chance to respond respectfully (to the moderation efforts).

That'd be fine by me if this (removing all spray) got done in the Route reports section. The problem is, there is so much BS that it would be a neverending timesink. Plus, no matter what policy you had there would always be areas of gray. You'll still have to decide if the post needs to deal only with route in question, the people involved, anyone who's ever climbed it, similar routes, similar rating schemes, blah blah. If you wanna try that (in the route reports section only), I think that would be great, but I just think you'd be setting yourself up for a lot of work if you were to do it properly. Of course, once the hard line was enforced and became known, perhaps the volume of BS would go down and the workload would ease.

Thoughts on moderation in general: The current practice of resisting moderating until it's so bad you just can't stand it, is not going to be uniform. "So bad you just can't stand it" is going to vary from day to day and from subject to subject. This type of moderation is inevitably going to lead to people bitching about unfair (non-uniform) moderation. Posters ought to understand this, as should moderators. I think the practice of just deleting single posts has a great chance to be abused and an even better chance of being wrongly interpreted. However, it's the best way to "purify" a thread and not lose all the information. If moderators are going to do this, I think it would be fair to at least let the poster subject to deletion have their say about the deletion, within that thread. Limits of decorum within that reply up to the discretion of the moderator. So far I think the moderating has been handled pretty well. Mattp's letting us in on his thought processes which led to editing stuff, and is setting up a forum for everone who has problems with it to bitch. He's giving you a hint about his limits and is entertaining feedback. This kicks ass on the other moderators who just tell you to basically f*ck off and find someplace else to play. (though that is entirely in their perogative, and it's not like I could do shit about it anyway) I hope further deletions will similarly be explained somehow.

Just figure how the rope is going to run from the belayer to the first piece to the next piece after that. If the rope makes a bend at the first piece then if someone falls above the rope will get straightened out. Figure how the first piece would get pulled should the rope straighten out at the bend. Set up the piece to handle both the possibility of a fall directly on that piece (downward) and the possibility of the rope getting pulled straight. Usuall this pull is a little bit upward and a little bit outward. Depends on the geometry of the specific situation. By the way, this rule doesn't just apply to the first piece, it applies to every piece that is going to cause a bend in the run of the rope. Try to make sure the piece will not get pulled out by the rope getting pulled into a straight line. I'm not sure why people think of this as a rule for the first piece only. Maybe it's because so many people would rather belay from a comfy spot than a spot that makes sense in terms of holding a fall. If there's not a bolt for the first piece, it's usually easier for the belayer to move to a spot such that the rope will run straight through the piece, than to spend a bunch of time dicking around for a perfect multidirectional setup (and then waiting for the second to dick around taking down the multidirectional setup). Bill's method is sound and I have used it, but I avoid it because it's such a pain in the . I only use that set up if I have to.

What's stopping you?