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Trip: Mt Hood - Cathedral Ramp - FA Trip Date: 04/17/2021 Trip Report: Today a group of us (@Nolan E Arson, @ktarry, @The Real Nick Sweeney) did what we believe is the first ascent of Cathedral Ramp off of the Eliot glacier. Of course I’m half-expecting someone to show up and post photos of a previous climb of the route, but we don’t have any reason to think it’s been done before and it’s listed as unclimbed in Mullee’s guidebook. We approached by racing the hoards up the South Side. @Nolan E Arson and I simul soloed DKHW 1, which is becoming quite mixed, to reach the summit, and then dropped down to the Queen’s Chair, with @ktarry and @The Real Nick Sweeney close behind. We continued down to near the top of Horseshoe Rock and traversed across, staying underneath the large bergschrund at the top of the glacier. The whole Eliot Headwall area, with lots of ice and lots of footprints from the last couple weeks: @Nolan E Arson and I approached the lower left ice flow that leads up and right to near the bottom of the upper snow ramp (orange line in photo below). @ktarry and @The Real Nick Sweeney approached the slightly higher streak of ice that forms a straight line with the upper ramp (yellow line). Perhaps one of them can chime in here to describe their first pitch. We started by doing a little mini pitch, still in our glacier travel setup, to get above the frighteningly undercut/moated area right up against the rock: From here we could see that there was ice leading all the way to the upper ramp. @Nolan E Arson led a nice fun pitch of WI3 (photo below), eventually meeting up with @ktarry who had traversed in from our right. While following I got a good view of @The Real Nick Sweeney coming up the other line: I started up the snow ramp, which is easy at first and then progresses to a few steeper mixed moves: Above this was the big unknown part of the climb. Some random photos we’d found online seemed to show easy, fairly flat snow wrapping around from the top of Cathedral Ramp to meet up with the top of the Pencil. Every time I’d looked across from the Queen’s Chair recently, however, the top out looked dry and steep and kind of scary. After the brief section of mixed climbing I reached a ledge where I could see that I was around 10-15 meters from the top of the Pencil. Of course I’d hoped to see an easy way across, but instead I was confronted with a few meters of climbing on absolutely atrocious, crumbling rock, up on to a previously invisible little ridge: Thankfully things weren’t that steep and I proceeded through this section without too much trouble. The rock was so loose and shitty that I didn’t even consider placing any gear, though I think perhaps @The Real Nick Sweeney found a decent cam placement on his way through? From on top of the little ridge there was a clear way to traverse, mostly on ice, to gain the main part of the North Face Cleaver, near the top out of the Pencil. I was hoping to climb the additional ice pitch to the top of Cathedral spire from the Pencil trip report, but at this time it’s completely melted. Maybe it's only there in the winter? Instead, @Nolan E Arson led around to the left on a series of icy ramps and snowy ledges: We were eventually deposited in the North Face right gully directly above the upper ice pitch. From here we unroped and soloed back to the summit. I'll add some concluding thoughts at a later time, once I've slept! Gear Notes: Took a lot of stuff. Mostly used screws with just an occasional piece of rock pro. Approach Notes: South Side

If I close my eyes you don’t exist.

Nah upstairs with your mom!! Hahahaha

Whenever I get a package of plain M&Ms, I make it my duty to continue the strength and robustness of the candy as a species. To this end, I hold M&M duels. Taking two candies between my thumb and forefinger, I apply pressure, squeezing them together until one of them cracks and splinters. That is the “loser,” and I eat the inferior one immediately. The winner gets to go another round. I have found that, in general, the brown and red M&Ms are tougher, and the newer blue ones are genetically inferior. I have hypothesized that the blue M&Ms as a race cannot survive long in the intense theater of competition that is the modern candy and snack-food world. Occasionally I will get a mutation, a candy that is misshapen, or pointier, or flatter than the rest. Almost invariably this proves to be a weakness, but on very rare occasions it gives the candy extra strength. In this way, the species continues to adapt to its environment. When I reach the end of the pack, I am left with one M&M, the strongest of the herd. Since it would make no sense to eat this one as well, I pack it neatly in an envelope and send it to M&M Mars, A Division of Mars, Inc., Hackettstown, NJ 17840-1503 U.S.A., along with a 3×5 card reading, “Please use this M&M for breeding purposes.” This week they wrote back to thank me, and sent me a coupon for a free 1/2 pound bag of plain M&Ms. I consider this “grant money.” I have set aside the weekend for a grand tournament. From a field of hundreds, we will discover the True Champion. There can be only one.

climbing is a game in which you can make your own rules

I started that this year too, basically for the same reasons. It's funny how just a simple shift of when the week "starts" can make such a positive difference in managing weekly volume!

The inside ones are for S&M with your partner! For real though, they are hollow tubes so you can wear a harness and be clipped into an anchor outside the tent. Ie if you’re camped on an exposed ledge, run a sling through the tube and anchor it to the ledge. Then when you’re inside the tent clip off to the sling that’s now hidden in the tube. If the tent disintegrates, you’re still tied off to an anchor.

To Oly and everyone here. I have a very, very rare chance to lift the veil, to show the real truth. Type in antifa.com on your browser's address bar and see what happens, it has been this way ever since the presidential election. Anyone remember all the dark elite sponsered riots for about a year? Antifa means anti fascist, which by defualt may mean communist. Now what will Oly say? This will show the light and the dark, I may be wrong on some of my guesses of the unknowns, but this is real and not going to simply go away.

It is ok oly, i know your sitting your mom's basement trying to earn a few bucks for a video game and a pizza. Take the Mrna all will be OK..

Now understand, all I have been saying all along is to support honest elections and constitutional rights. Look at all my posts and that is all you will see. Who would oppose this? Think on that. I have relatives who took the vaccines, i don't agree with that decision but I 100% believe they have the right to choose to take a vaccine while i should have the constitutional right not to, without any sanction. As if the vaccine works then those who take it should be protected and should not care if i take it or not. Otherwise all is a lie, top to bottom, and one lie leads to another then another, endlessly. Then fascist/communist dictatorship. The dark elites are not going to stop, they will press ahead with their operations, 100%"sure. It is only how much evidence you must have to see the obvious.

Multiple articles here. https://www.naturalnews.com/2021-03-23-gavi-vaccine-alliance-the-source-of-terror-vaccine-coercion.html

Type in. Jefferyprather.com see what you get. Then search for jeffery prather , if you can get his site, listen to his pod casts. If have trouble get on brighteon.com search for jeffery prather. Put brighteon.com in address bar. It is getting harder to use Google to get him up. Shadow banning. It may not be long until net lock down. Excuse will be war with Russia.

The only way to put out this much energy is to be obsessed and on Bill Gates payroll. Must get paid by salary and by the number of words and posts, likely working several web sites. To everyone, the next two elections will show the truth, if steamrolled by fixed elections to force vaccines, due to dropped viruses and also remove constitutional rights etc. Either quickly or slowly, the situation will be clear enough. Then CC will have to decide. One. help the transition to that fascist/communist dictatorship hell, including stacks of dead bodies. Two, just be sheep with no influence in any way, live or die, freedom or slavery, with no input. Three. support democracy, honest elections and constitutional rights etc. Choices, no surprises.