Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing most liked content on 12/17/20 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I might be ruining the fun of speculating, but it's from Cowboy Ridge on Justice Mountain outside of Selkirk Lodge. Photo credit Andrew Councell during 2018 Ski Guide exam.
  2. 1 point
    This trip report makes my knees hurt. I agree with Kit's sentiment.
  3. 1 point
    The second photo is a great photo of the Index peaks, don't get that view photographed much.
  4. 1 point
    My partner and I climbed the NE Buttress of Chair Peak on December 12th. The route was in really climbable condition, with some enjoyable mixed climbing in the S-couloir. The route was mostly snow climbing, but the ice step was in good shape at around WI2+ (steep but short). We pitched out the entire route which made upward progress on the slower side, and we reached the summit around 4pm, which was later than we intended. A strong northerly wind caused for blustery conditions with significant amounts of spindrift. We accidentally descended down the wrong gully from the summit. The route description we followed said to descend the obvious gully for 200 feet until you turn left at a notch to find a rappel anchor. We descended the gully for about 400 feet looking for the left turn and notch before realizing we were in the wrong gully. We located some rap tat and were able to cut into the correct notch from below with a rappel, some up-climbing, and then some down climbing. Because we had to rap sideways, the rope was pulled over a rock band and got stuck. I had to solo up to free it. At this point, dusk had fallen and the rest of the descent was done in the dark. From the notch, we located the chains (nice looking bolts) on skier's right. I rapped 200 feet, passing 3 intermediate anchors. There was no rap tat or rappel station at the 200 foot mark, so we decided that my partner would rap to the 3rd rappel station, a single bolt with a rap ring at about 150 feet down, and set up the last rappel for us. I was unroped, standing on a ledge in the corner of the gully. My partner rapped, and while pulling the rope to set up the last rappel, the rope got stuck and he had to climb up the couloir for a significant distance to free the rope. We could have down climbed from there, but I was worried about the avy danger and wanted to rap as far out of the couloir as possible. We did the last rappel and realized that the strong winds from throughout the day had created wind-loaded slopes in the bottom of the descent couloir. Despite the avalanche hazard being forecasted as "moderate" for that day, the hazard had certainly moved into the 'considerable' or even 'high' range. I pulled the rope and began to coil it while my partner started down climbing the rest of the gully, looking to remove himself from the loaded slope as quickly as possible. While I was coiling the rope, my partner triggered a windslab about 10 feet below me. I heard him yell out "avalanche!" and could make out debris pouring down the slope. The slab was 40 feet wide and 8" deep. He slid for about 30 feet but was able to self arrest by swinging his ice tool into the hard snow beneath the slide/debris. I watched the debris pour over him and shoot down the rest of the slope. I carefully stepped below the crown to avoid triggering any more loaded snow, and made my way down to my partner. He was thankfully uninjured, but both of us were shaken from the close call, and exhausted from the arduous day. We continued down safely the rest of the way, and were extremely cautious of travelling on wind-loaded slopes until we reached Source Lake. While this route is fun and in good condition, it should not be taken lightly, as the objective dangers are serious. While it is satisfying to complete a route, it is better to do so in good style. Avy gear should be considered mandatory on the approach, descent, and on route. Consider another objective if heavy wind loading is present. This was definitely a learning experience as I am relatively new to winter alpine climbing. I'm sharing this information both to acknowledge the mistakes we made, and to give a heads up to other parties interested in this popular route. Our rack: Avy gear, two pickets, a large set of nuts, singles of cams from .3-1, a few KB's, a short LA, a small angle, and 6 screws from 10-17cm. We used all the gear except most of the nuts and two screws. Here are a few photos from the route:
  5. 1 point
    N. Face Left Gully: Climbed yesterday. Currently the best conditions that i have ever seen the N. Face left gully and completely different terrain than my other times climbing it. Ice almost the entire way up and 6 different steep ice steps, 2 of which you could bypass if you desired.(First 7 pictures) Reid HW: checked out last weekend. Knee deep snow slog to the base. Still just powder on that side of the mtn, not much ice or firm snow yet. (Picture 8-9) Black Spider: Currently the warm weather has melted most of the snow and the face is looking dry. A little ice forming on a few of the routes but not close to being ready for the season in my opinion. (Picture 10) DKH Var 1: As of last week it is dirty choss ice. Climbable but more of a rotten ice/dirt climb right now. (Last Picture) Hope this info helps anyone who is curious about the different aspects of the mtn. I will try to actually post about conditions every few weeks if people care to know what is in and what is not. s for anyone who is in
  6. 1 point
    Maggots? MAGGOTS? Hahahaha 😂! I would prefer to think of myself as some kind of blood sucking parasite, like a tick or maybe a botfly. What a great trip report about an ambitious line up an ominous buttress. Not a lot of people are doing that kind of stuff these days. Did you really fix a thousand feet of line or was I reading that wrong? WTF? That must have weighed a ton, carrying all that up there. The thought of having someone lower me that far WITH HAULBAGS gives me the he-bee gee-bees. There IS a better way to descend with heavy bags.... That must have been amazing, being up there in quiet solitude for six days. That’s what wall climbing is all about. I like the name, Jotnar. Very fitting. When some friends and I tried to first climb this buttress in the early 70’s, I was thinking of calling it The Balrog Buttress, after one of the scary creatures from Lord of the Rings, which had just come out. My hat’s off to you!! Don Harder
  7. 1 point
    As far as I can tell this is it. A couple fxed lines over there gave some clues on features.
  8. 0 points
    Quit yer bitching youth. My last trip in the Casades the average age was over 60 with one damn near 70.