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  2. Hear that people? Contact JGAP LLC for all your alpine planning needs! Very reasonable rates that match my very reasonable alpine success rate. Increase your Bulger and Smoot ticks this summer, and decrease your alpine failures*, with one quick call: 1-800-JGAPLLC *results vary, may not actually improve alpine performance. No refunds, or guarantees. You may die, be maimed, or otherwise be inconvenienced based on advice given by JGAP LLC.
  3. well look at you answering my question before I even asked it! maybe you can monetize that skill.
  4. Oh, I should add that the lower cliffs by Moraine lake were nearly melted out when we went. It is likely to be significantly worse now, and not a lot of fun to connect the glacier to the lake. Also the lake was beginning to melt out with open water on both ends. So likely not in great shape at the present....
  5. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Sadly the Renton sweet granite went away. Or was it there?
  6. Today
  7. Wow, epic TR and glad you were not injured. Regarding snow pro, totally agree it can be very difficult to place solid snow pro. I have rapped off T-slot pickets but nowadays I will opt to carry both a msr snow fluke and a picket on steep snow routes for this reason of snow variability. I have bounce tested snow flukes (run/slid full speed while roped in) and been pleasantly surprised how well they hold in different snow conditions since they dig deeper into the snow, particularly the newer ones....It took a fair amount of digging/effort to retrieve them after loading...
  8. Thanks, @Rad! I hope you are doing well and you've been getting out some/enough this spring! As far as rope: No, we were not roped up. We based this decision on the conditions of the glacier that we saw/felt when we crossed on skis the evening before, the conditions of the snow in the morning when we set out, and the fact that we we only had a very short section of glacier to cross before getting around/above the bergshrunds. The risk of a crevasse fall, especially carrying big packs and skis, seemed really remote. My punch-through, in fact, wasn't into a crevasse as far as we could tell, since we could see boulders at the bottom and there was nothing that looked like glacier ice. Perhaps not the 100% absolute most conservative choice (not to rope up), but I think we would still do it as we did if we could go back. I will definitely read/consider whatever you or anyone wants to say on the topic.
  9. Me and a buddy did Mt. Baring main peak and then south peak in the fall of 2002 but I don't remember anything more than scrambling around on the SW aspect. Looks better with some snow on it. I was recently thinking of the Skykomish Valley version of the "North Bend Triple" and think a fit scrambler could do Gunn-Merchant-Baring in a day. You could be set up to re-supply at a vehicle between peaks. Approximately 22 miles and 12,000' vert, probably doable in a day but I'd take a headlamp for sure. Someone has probably done it.
  10. They are working this morning for me! Beautiful! Maybe my internets were temporarily jammed.
  11. They all show up nicely for me!
  12. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    One week MX would be far better- shorter travel time, and cheaper flights. If you speak rudimentary Spanish, there is zero reason for guide/travel service to get around. Just keep low profile and don't travel at night.
  13. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Looking to head south this winter for a week. Haven't decided on the Mexican volcanoes or Ecuador. I would want to hire a local guide to handle logistics, lodging and transportation. Any recommendations for either location, and any recommendations of a local guide? Anyone else headed down this winter with room for two more (me and my wife), or anyone looking to go that want to join us? I figure prices get cheaper the more people you have. Thanks.
  14. Weird....displays fine in my browser. Still the case? If so, we'll need to get @jon to investigate.
  15. Trip: Mt Baring 2-fer (north and south peaks) - Standard Trip Date: 05/19/2019 Trip Report: Chris and my original plan was a ski ascent of Baker, but with changing weather coming in over the weekend, we decided to do something lower and less likely to be in the clouds. We chose Baring Peak for a day outing. Having hiked Baring before, I wanted to spice it up by climbing the rarely-summited south peak as well. We came prepared for any conditions with two axes, pickets, crampons and rock pro. Some people call it overkill. We called it training weight. We reached Barlcay Lake trailhead and started up the trail. The approach was still as steep as I remembered, reminiscent of climbing trees in my childhood. It is more root than trail. We made snow-covered gully without incident and headed up. The snow was perfect for kicking steps and we made the notch easily. Snow gully. Baring on the left, south Baring on the right. We scouted the south route, which comes right out of the notch. It looked very doable with a couple snow patches broken by a couple rock steps. We couldn't see above the rocks steps though, so we hiked Baring proper to get a good look at the whole route. Baring was still all snow, but again solid snow that allowed easy steps. We headed down and geared up at the notch. We brought a single 8.2mm twin rope and folded it over. With the amount of trees and possible meandering, I didn't see the point of trying to pitch out 200 feet and deal with the rope drag. I offered Chris the leads and he offered them right back to me. I guess I was leading. The first twp pitches were muddy rock and thin snow without much protection other than slinging trees. The rock horns were loose and the snow too shallow and soft for pickets. It was easy climbing though, something like higher-upper 4th class. ( I want to call it low 5th for egotistical purposes, but it wasn't.) The route from the notch. The stars are the belays. Each belay had good tat with a newer rap ring around a solid tree. The letters line up with photos further down. Chris following the snow finger marked A. The upper route. We chose a narrow chute between two rock outcropping. It was steep and rather thin snow coverage. Going climbers right would have been safer but longer. We rapped down the chute. Chris climbing the snow chute marked B on the above photos. Obligatory summit photo. We hiked down the upper snow and did three raps to get down. The trees ate the rope like a lion with lollipop, so the descent wasn't much faster than going up. The way out was steeper than the way up (I don't know the physics behind it, but somehow the approach trail got steeper) and my knees screamed and almost quit. I gave my knees some pep talks, and they carried me down the root trail and back out to the car. It was a fun trip, but not something I ever need to do again. Gear Notes: ice axes, lots of long runners. Did not use crampons or pickets Approach Notes: Steep. Very very steep. Make your knees cry steep.
  16. Mid/late June footwear

    Im gonna keep the Cubes so between them and the G2 I should be covered. I will pick up a pair of overboots/super gaiters when needed. Trying to sort out the pros v. cons between super gaiters and overboots. Any help would be appreciated.
  17. Alpine Dads wanted

    I'm headed to Skaha for the long weekend for some family climbing. My next free weekend is July 13th. I am thinking of either Adams Glaicer, Kautz Glacier or Liberty Ridge. Trying to convince my wife to join me, but whether she joins or not, I'd want another person or two.
  18. Alpine Dads wanted

    Anyone free for Memorial Day weekend? I managed to get the whole weekend off and want a grand adventure. I don’t get out often due to the of work and family, but still maintain reasonable shape. I try to do an adventure once a month, but need to schedule it. My kids are 12 and 10 and they occasionally like to get out as well. I am 49 and lead comfortably at 9’s and 10’s depending depending on gym time I get, used to lead 5-5+ water ice though it seems it has been forever, getting into running and would like to do some running and climbing. Anyways, things I am thinking about for this weekend are skiing in WA pass, Goat wall climbing, Squamish, Smith if the weather crapped out everywhere, or easy-moderate alpine rock & ice classics.
  19. Beautiful shots @JasonG that I can see! I will have to be sure to add this to my list 😀 I'm getting a bunch of broken image links after the eighth photo...
  20. Yesterday
  21. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    That is exactly my point of being suicidal. And a comment "good job" should be replaced as "you are fucking nuts, and stay away from me". Paragliding has way different safety culture, and people who take unnecessary risks are being shunned.
  22. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    The Ice Cliff Glacier will eventually slide in its entirety at some point soon. I hope I'm climbing the North Ridge when that happens!
  23. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    I don't know when classic Price Glacier was last climbed, but considering the shape it's in, it would be probably pretty suicidal at the moment. Last 10 years classic NF of Shuksan is basically falling apart, with large secions of rock being exposed by mid summer. So not a landslide, but glacial retreat due to climate change. Not Cascades, but Bugaboo/Snowpatch is usually too dangerous to be on by July. It suffered numerous large slides, with the biggest probably about 12 years ago. It would be interesting to study what caused this incredible demise of Joffre, and my understanding is that there were only a few slides of that magnitude in last several thousands of years. Another rockfall nobody mentioned yet is the Chief-top of Zodiac, taking out a section of Northern Lights area. Probably second largest rockfall, after Joffre.
  24. As per usual you did a far better job of capturing the scenery than I did. Beautiful photos!
  25. Mid/late June footwear

    Lol. Im just well insulated.
  26. I suspect nearly all have been on skis during the spring. It seems to get done by at least 5-10 parties a year, and there were at least three groups ahead of us this season. Oh, and we saw a mating pair of Harlequin ducks at the inlet to the lake!
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