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Someone on FB linked this go fund me page for one of the climbers. RIP. https://www.spotfund.com/story/f2174a23-36a7-4434-bf55-853dce5d17af?fbclid=IwY2xjawKQmSxleHRuA2FlbQIxMQBicmlkETFxdHdMcjI4N3VEakpZSmN0AR6AS8Hodhucn9wrKe56lQ9ozehQodGwuPuueXkVs6vLvtpmpnYOnX38S1Ogfg_aem_wqvs2a2IOK7RronyZfN5sQ

Cool thanks! I think I may write him a letter as I think we have a couple of friends in common.

Thanks, I appreciate you! I remember Mayfest well. I just connected with an old FS pal there and may get Dieter's number soon. He used to hang out with John Pickens (RIP) who I was close to and worked closely with when I was up there. I also wonder if Brad Hunter is still with the FS--he knew those glaciers well. Yeah, I was one of the 1990s crews that really made the Cascade Creek trail passable again. It was brutal sometimes--we spent quite a bit of time blasting with John Pickens into the side of the canyon for a portion, but the experience made me the man I am today. My daughter, who works in Yellowstone now, will be with me when I go back up!

I can pass your question on to a few locals who have climbed it in the last 5 years. I grew up there but haven’t climbed it myself. I love the Cascade Creek trail and Swan lake- such an amazing area. I'll be back this weekend for Mayfest and see if I can get any beta.

Fuck, just saw this too.

https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/3-wa-rock-climbers-die-1-hurt-in-north-cascades-climbing-accident/ This is accurate from what I heard from those that were involved with the recovery

Hi everyone, I climbed triple couloirs c2c on dragontail about a week ago, and have been super stoked on getting on some more ice/mixed in the enchantments in the next few weeks. I am particularly interested in Stuart glacier couloir or ice cliff glacier on Stuart, but would likely want to get out cragging or on something mellower before getting on these routes with a new partner. I'm consistently leading up to ~WI4 M4, and would be happy to lead any/all pitches up to this difficulty. I've spent a few summers in the cascades/Squamish, am generally competent on basic rock/alpine/ice/mixed climbing, and am comfortable with big days out in the mountains. Just shoot me a message on this website if you'd be interested in getting out and let's definitely talk. Otherwise, I'm in WA every summer, and always happy to get out with new alpine partners in the cascades, or on some ice in Hyalite or the midwest. In any case, happy climbing.

Rimey good fun!

Was this the couloir route or another one?

Dang thoughts to all involved and especially the survivor. That is so tragic.

Yes, sounds like anchor failure on EW couloir? Condolences to the friends and family impacted by this.....any details that those in the know can share would be appreciated to better understand what happened and what we can learn from the accident.

From 'Okanogan County Sheriff Office' FB page: Okanogan County Sheriff’s Office personnel and Okanogan County Search and Rescue volunteers responded to a climbing accident in the area of North Early Winters Spire off of State Route 20, approximately 16 miles west of Mazama, WA, at approximately 1130 on May 11, 2025. A party of four climbers from Renton, WA, were involved in a fall while descending a steep gully. Three individuals were confirmed deceased at the accident site. The fourth member of the party self-extricated and contacted law enforcement. Snohomish County Helicopter Rescue Team assisted in extricating the deceased members of the party from the technical, mountainous terrain. The presumed cause of the accident is an anchor failure while rappelling, with more investigation still ongoing. The Okanogan County Sheriff’s Office would like to thank the SAR volunteers and Snohomish County for assisting in this tragic incident. Our thoughts are with the family members and friends of those involved. I believe they were attempting to climb the EWC. Tragic.

Rumor is that there was an accident on SEWS on May 11. Anybody have any info? Jason

Hi, I would definitely be interested in climbing Rainier this year. I have extensive glacier travel experience and am a decent alpine rock climber (not that rock climbing is relevant here!) Please shoot me a message or email at thomasphilpott789 //// @ /// gmail /// .com

Nice! Thanks for the TR!

Thank you @Otto

I took a look at the Squire Creek road on Friday, 5/9/2025. After clearing many branches and small logs from the old logging road, I found only one pair of fallen trees that block the way and force a biker to dismount. Too big for my tools at hand, it'll have to wait for some local chainsaw talent to clear it. Taking the boot-track to the South Face of Squire Creek Wall proved smooth and problem-free. Currently there is no cairn at the turnoff. The only snow is packed into the final gully up to the grassy saddle camp. There are a few scraps of snow blocks on the shelves below Concerto in C, but access is not hindered. There is a snow patch on the ramps to Primal Scream, probably gone soon. And as usual this early in the year, there is snow covering the first pitch of Skeena26, which can be hiked around.

Did a nice variation to the Reid a couple weeks back. The business was all in the first belayed pitch. A fairly steep full length pitch consisting of steps of rock, rime, and ice. Thankfully broken up by more gentle terrain. Required a mixed bag of tricks and pro. Sadly we only had screws and pickets since we intended to go up the standard left Reid route but saw this and did it on a whim. Some nuts would have been nice. There were steps kicked in going up to the base of the first pitch, but it appeared whoever put that booter in turned around without doing the climb. There wasn't obvious evidence of people having climbed it recently. Anyway it was really fun, though harder than expected! Looking up at the first pitch: Climbing the first pitch: Looking down during the first pitch: Approximate route:

Oh yeah, no state income tax might be an issue! Still, I think if you added a small percentage onto sales tax for outdoor rec related purchases it would pencil. I think that is how CO has funded it.

About that Washington state budget.... 💩

I would call up to Petersburg and track down Dieter! https://www.npr.org/2023/09/09/1198625687/why-one-man-has-spent-much-of-life-trying-to-climb-a-near-impossible-summit He's a homebuilder, so I'd try either hardware store in Petersburg. They'll know how to track him down.

Even though WA is listed as having an office of outdoor recreation (maybe this is RCO?), I don't think it is functional in the way of Utah or Wyoming. With the dysfunction in DC, I think the states need to lead in funding improvements to access and stewardship on federal lands. The movement is in relative infancy, but seems to be working well in other states, and WA just needs to make it happen. https://recreation.utah.gov/ https://wyooutdoorrecreation.wyo.gov/index.php/about Agree that we have too many people vying for rec access from too few points. There is a lot of land out there to spread out on. There will be wildlife impacts, however, with people spreading out more. I do know that several local Tribes are against improving access for this reason. How-to-Create-an-Office-of-Outdoor-Recreation.pdf

Curious if anyone has read Kyle McCrohan (Climber Kyle)'s blogpost on abundant access to wilderness or has any thoughts. It's been interesting reading the feedback he's been getting. https://climberkyle.com/2025/05/04/the-case-for-abundant-recreation/

Yeah board doesn’t know what to do with .heics