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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs Trip Date: 05/09/2025 Trip Report: All epic photos by Alexei May 9, 2025 11 years and 5, yes five, attempts later … Dragontail Peak North Face via Triple Couloirs on the 6th attempt … done on 5-9-2025 with Alexei Smirnoff (Boulder, CO) The Framework If soloing Pinnacle Gully to Mount Washington this year was my Everest then this was my K2 (technically, physically and mentally challenging to a whole different level) - think stacking PG of Mt. Washington on top of the North Face central line of Gothics in ADK, including both approaches on a single push … from NY flew into Seattle by 10am (May 8), then to base of DTP by 12 midnight, brew stop for 3hrs (that’s eat/hydrate/boiling snow into 6L water) sleep haha/change socks lol … climb TC to summit by 6pm and then on the descent … dehydrated/delirious/dark … the cherry on top … got lost in the woods for a few hours trying to get back to the tent 😂 … finally catch a red eye flight back to NY (May 10) The Technical Climb DTP has 3 loooooooong steep snow couloirs (nevé and consolidated snow on this date) separates by 2 Ice Runnels. Base of Entrance Couloir at 8:30am Temp 38°F Simul-Solo and Simul climbed all the couloirs C1 C1 higher End of C1 - Alexei built anchor at bottom of R1 Runnels Runnel 1 has 3 pitches Runnel 2 has 1 pitch R1 P1 (45 m) - anchor was 2 small cams, climb protected by a 13 cm screw, a small nut, and another cam and Alexei brought me up to the right facing corner on fixed gear (someone’s bail point) to the rock/mixed variation exit to try to gain P2 R1 P1 looking up R1 P1 Right Corner Variation, Traditional R1 P1 to left R1 P1 Corner Variation - Alexei bringing me up R1 P2 (corner variation) - he attempted the sparse unbonded ice on steep slab with chossy, loose rock was a no go. Decision to bail vs. rap/downclimb (10ft) just below us and to our left to attempt the traditional steep traverse on thin ice over exposed slab (where I couldn’t get across in 2018) vs. goto the “Bypass Runnel Route” which would drop you into the 2nd couloir … we opted for the “Traverse” (it looked thicker than 2018 at least … not by much 😂) R1 P2 looking up Right Corner Variation - attempted but would not go R1 P2 (traverse, the crux, full 60 m) - rap/downclimbed 10 ft, anchor was a 120 cm runner slipped around with the aid of a nut tool through a gap between two gigantic bomber compressed boulders. I led out - placed a picket 10ft out to protect anchor … traversed monkey-hang left 15 m on “1/2 finger tip length” ice, placed a “mental protection” screw 😳 in a small blob, then up another 15 m of “1 finger-tip length” ice in the entry slab ramp to P3, where I finally got a 13cm screw in large blob and continued just up to the end of P2 where I placed a picket to bring Alexei up. R1 P2 downclimb/rap 25 ft to anchor to begin traditional R1 P2 Traverse R1 P2 Traverse : first 45m, looking back at Alexei, 1/2 fingertip thin barely bonded ice, hollow at times, no pro R1 P2 - one piece of mental pro, 10cm screw sticking out lol R1 P2 Traverse, looking up towards at R1 P3, another 45m to go video-11976_singular_display.mov R1 P2 Traverse video “ice screw not worth shit” video-11976_singular_display.mov R1 P2 Traverse Video “Ice gets better” R1 P2 Traverse - final 30m ice after traverse and heading up thicker ice to base of R1 P3 R1 P2 - looking down the Traverse and Up pitch, bringing Alexei up to snow picket anchor at end of P2 R1 P3 (the aesthetic runnel, full 60 m) - Alexei styled this WI3, which involved a heady choke point mid way up with 2 x 13 cm screws, a piton and a small cam and brought me up on a anchor on the very far right wall of 2nd couloir R1 P3 - Alexei leading in style up the beautiful WI3 line R2 (the deceivingly short and tight one M2-M3, 60 m) - Alexei took the immediate right after the end of 2nd couloir … small nut, small cam, brought me up on 2 cams at a rock outcropping at base of 3rd couloir R2 - Alexei leading the beautiful mixed pitch, looks deceptively short Entering C3 Iconic shot of Fin by Alexei from C3 looking down at me … slow lol Topping out of TC we then headed diagonally right for the summit proper through waist-deep slush postholing and then chose to climb the rock to summit (6pm) vs. taking the circuitous hiking path. Alexei topping out of TC Summit of DTP Descent followed the hiking path down summit to notch on right then down-climbed/plunge stepped the steep snow towards Asgards Pass where mostly we glissaded (really fast) down to Lake. Gear Notes: 2 pickets - used extremely frequently 4 ice screws (2 x 10, 2 x 13) - used all 3 pitons - used 1-2 1 set of small nuts - used 1 set of small cams to 0.2-2 - used frequently 8.5mm x 60m Beal Opera single Approach Notes: Gate closed, dry and dusty 4 miles to Stuart Lake TH, trail proper to lake -> boots only no flotation, no spikes, some patches of deep consolidated snow, wet muddy, lake is not frozen

I'm looking for a partner to climb Shkhara (5200m), the Georgia highpoint, via the south side Beknu route (Russian grade 5B), between mid July and mid august. Beta on the route: https://mountainworld-com-ua.translate.goog/blog/shhara-b-hergiani-5b-opisanie-marshruta/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp Route picture attached below. It's about 19 pitches, rock/mixed/ice climbing. Likely six days on route plus weather buffer and travel. Probably two weeks total including acclimation. My background - I've led routes up to Russian grade 6A (Pobeda via abalakov), climbed K2 no O2. I attempted Shkhara in 2016 from the russia side but had to bail due to weather and that side is not currently accessible. It would be great to have an experienced partner I could swing leads with or simulclimb for efficiency, and maybe do some practice climbs in WA beforehand. I'm based in WA. Thanks. Eric Gilbertson

Lots more info now on seattletimes (behind their paywall). For instance the 63 year old climber had done 99 of the 100 Bulger list.

I was wanting to see this report! Thanks for putting it up and wow, what a cool trip.

4/3/2025 with @lunger (who came up with the idea... some kind of Pyramid Scheme) and Eric Noll After a morning spent walking in steep forest and surmounting knobs of vertical snow on the ridge, we finally snow that was friendly for ski touring. A descending traverse West got us into a prominent slanting tube feature that descends from the shoulder of Pyramid. On this, we noted some shallow but sensitive windslab from recent E winds. Hopefully these wouldn't be found higher up on our intended line. Cascade climber Colonial We skinned upwards, peeked around the corner into the NW cirque, and saw imposing blue ice. To our surprise, a strip of snow pasted on a narrow ramp seemed to provide a weakness through otherwise unskiable terrain. The windslab had also gone away, winds slowed by the large buttress of Pyramid's North face. As we climbed, our excitement grew and we realized we would be able to keep the skis on and travel through this wild feature. The upper bowl even held deep powder (and tiring booting). Gaining the summit was a straightforward affair from the top of the cirque. The ridge is pretty low-angle. We chilled for a while at the ridgetop before moving to the summit. Wehrly likes it spicy Summit! The descent made for a neat line in a beautiful position in great conditions. Nowhere was it crazy steep, but we did feel the exposure especially as we made turns directly above the waterfall and sideslipped the ramp. With snow to 2000' this would make for a 5k descent! We had to make do with a turn-around near 4600', followed by an ascending traverse back to ridgetop and a multi-hour descent through the forest. Starting into the crux: Wehrly opens up the narrowest passage. "SO EXPOSED!" I heard him shout Noll followed: I went last: We sideslipped the ramp: Happy below the gnar! Avy debris, then some nice buttery pow Looking back towards the cirque with our skintrack from the morning blown in This was second attempt for me and Wehrly. We had tried in 2021 but turned around below the cirque when I didn't have a good feeling about the cornices. You are really going up the middle of a big avy path with a lot of overhead hazard. That day we skinned back up to the shoulder of Pyramid and did a long descent down the lower avalanche path. We stayed skier's left and had to negotiate a very steep section through smaller cliffs to reach the flat runout of the avy paths below. That year we skied to around 2000' among large alders and old growth. In retrospect, it might have been a good day for getting the complete descent. March 2021, typical travel on the climber's trail: March 2021, in the lower slide path: If you haven't enjoyed the Pyramid climber's trail in winter conditions, crucial beta is to pass the steep sections by traversing climber's right/West through trees on the ascent. This saves a lot of effort! We didn't have them, but it might be wise to carry a couple ice screws and a v-thread for this line in case you find icier conditions or are approaching it top-down, e.g. as the exit from the Isolation traverse. There are some options for variations. Also, it sounds like Erin Smart, Kurt Hicks, and Forest McBrian skied this cirque but likely traversed far skier's left to avoid the icy crux we skied (this looked passable to us but also thin and exposed) https://turns-all-year.com/trip-reports/march-23-25-isolation-traverse-plus. Skurlock photo with the line:

Hey Mammoth, I'm planning a few easy scrambles the last weekend of this month and looking for input. Our permit is snow zone and we want to bag Enchantment, Cannon, LilAP, and McClellan. Do you recommend full-on boots & cramps or lighter footwear and spikes? I assume there's no point in bringing snowshoes or avi gear unless things get weird. Thanks!

Thanks Jason! Sometimes these reports get things wrong and I was assuming this was the SW couloir of SEWS (quite popular). I'm not at all familiar with the EWC route. This was a very tragic accident.

@AlpineK and @KaskadskyjKozak....Accident was in the Early Winter's Couloir....AKA the couloir between NEWS and SEWS, accessed from the hairpin. And, it was caused by the failure of a single piton anchor which all 4 were clipped to as they descended the route after turning around partway up.

The report said North Early Winter Spire as opposed to South Early Winter Spire. Generally the Southern Spire is more frequently climbed.

This is one of the standard, oops I should have zigged and not zagged variation. Guess how I know? I was not the first and the OP will not be the last. Getting on the Castle Crags ridge line sooner is quite "interesting" as the drops on both sides helps one focus.

I know this is years old, but is this Cascade pick still available?

Someone on FB linked this go fund me page for one of the climbers. RIP. https://www.spotfund.com/story/f2174a23-36a7-4434-bf55-853dce5d17af?fbclid=IwY2xjawKQmSxleHRuA2FlbQIxMQBicmlkETFxdHdMcjI4N3VEakpZSmN0AR6AS8Hodhucn9wrKe56lQ9ozehQodGwuPuueXkVs6vLvtpmpnYOnX38S1Ogfg_aem_wqvs2a2IOK7RronyZfN5sQ

Cool thanks! I think I may write him a letter as I think we have a couple of friends in common.

Thanks, I appreciate you! I remember Mayfest well. I just connected with an old FS pal there and may get Dieter's number soon. He used to hang out with John Pickens (RIP) who I was close to and worked closely with when I was up there. I also wonder if Brad Hunter is still with the FS--he knew those glaciers well. Yeah, I was one of the 1990s crews that really made the Cascade Creek trail passable again. It was brutal sometimes--we spent quite a bit of time blasting with John Pickens into the side of the canyon for a portion, but the experience made me the man I am today. My daughter, who works in Yellowstone now, will be with me when I go back up!

I can pass your question on to a few locals who have climbed it in the last 5 years. I grew up there but haven’t climbed it myself. I love the Cascade Creek trail and Swan lake- such an amazing area. I'll be back this weekend for Mayfest and see if I can get any beta.

Fuck, just saw this too.

https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/3-wa-rock-climbers-die-1-hurt-in-north-cascades-climbing-accident/ This is accurate from what I heard from those that were involved with the recovery

Hi everyone, I climbed triple couloirs c2c on dragontail about a week ago, and have been super stoked on getting on some more ice/mixed in the enchantments in the next few weeks. I am particularly interested in Stuart glacier couloir or ice cliff glacier on Stuart, but would likely want to get out cragging or on something mellower before getting on these routes with a new partner. I'm consistently leading up to ~WI4 M4, and would be happy to lead any/all pitches up to this difficulty. I've spent a few summers in the cascades/Squamish, am generally competent on basic rock/alpine/ice/mixed climbing, and am comfortable with big days out in the mountains. Just shoot me a message on this website if you'd be interested in getting out and let's definitely talk. Otherwise, I'm in WA every summer, and always happy to get out with new alpine partners in the cascades, or on some ice in Hyalite or the midwest. In any case, happy climbing.

Rimey good fun!

Was this the couloir route or another one?

Dang thoughts to all involved and especially the survivor. That is so tragic.

Yes, sounds like anchor failure on EW couloir? Condolences to the friends and family impacted by this.....any details that those in the know can share would be appreciated to better understand what happened and what we can learn from the accident.

From 'Okanogan County Sheriff Office' FB page: Okanogan County Sheriff’s Office personnel and Okanogan County Search and Rescue volunteers responded to a climbing accident in the area of North Early Winters Spire off of State Route 20, approximately 16 miles west of Mazama, WA, at approximately 1130 on May 11, 2025. A party of four climbers from Renton, WA, were involved in a fall while descending a steep gully. Three individuals were confirmed deceased at the accident site. The fourth member of the party self-extricated and contacted law enforcement. Snohomish County Helicopter Rescue Team assisted in extricating the deceased members of the party from the technical, mountainous terrain. The presumed cause of the accident is an anchor failure while rappelling, with more investigation still ongoing. The Okanogan County Sheriff’s Office would like to thank the SAR volunteers and Snohomish County for assisting in this tragic incident. Our thoughts are with the family members and friends of those involved. I believe they were attempting to climb the EWC. Tragic.

Rumor is that there was an accident on SEWS on May 11. Anybody have any info? Jason