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#1146198 - 01/13/16 10:14 PM [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016
Alex789 Offline
n00b

Registered: 02/25/12
Posts: 41
TRs: 11 Photos: 0
Loc: bellevue, wa
Trip: Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully

Date: 1/13/2016

Trip Report:
My friend Oleg and I climbed New York Gully on Sunday January 10th. We started hiking from grooming parking lot at 5:20 AM. We were not sure about the approach, getting information from this topo:
http://kurthicks.com/2012/02/18/snoqualmie-mountain-nw-face-topo/
We followed tracks for some times on climbers right side of Alpental valley and then headed up through the woods in North direction. The snow was deep and we were slowly breaking trail, taking turns. We did not take snowshoes, because we thought it would be too steep for snowshoeing and it was. We bypassed lower rock band on left.





When some clearings occurred in the forest we found some tracks again and hiked faster. Finally we came to the view of the mount Snoqualmie subsidiary summit. The tracks led us straight to the notch. We descended on North side of the ridge and continued following tracks.



The tracks led us to a prominent couloir and then stopped near the beginning of left-leaning ramp which was a beginning of our route.
Pitch 1 one was easy, but exposed snow climbing. We belayed, but did not put any pro.



Pitch 1 ends at the beginning of a broad right-leaning couloir. This couloir is not “New York Gully” route, probably “La Express”. We belayed on a fixed anchor. Later we found fixed anchors on all stations. Probably they were left by party from this TR:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1146144
Pitch 2 continued left and up. It was steeper with some pieces of real climbing.



Pitch 2 ends at the large dead tree. From here we could see unmistakable right-leaning box gully.



Pitch 3 was mixed climbing. There was very little ice. Climbing was pulling on frozen moss and occasional drytooling. Pitch 3 ends on a snow ledge.
Pitch 4 is similar to pitch 4, but easier, shorter and with more hard snow.



Pitch 4 ends at the short steep wall – crux of the route.



Pitch 5. Oleg aided the crux, using fixed gear. After the crux was easier climbing on snow slopes.
Pitch 6 traverses right and goes to the notch in the ridge between 2 gendarmes.



To bypass the right gendarme, we rappelled on the other side using fixed station on a tree.



Then we ascended a snow slope to a summit col.



We decided not to scramble to the summit, because it was already 3:45PM and the winter day was short. We descended through the woods to the Alpental parking lot.



In the end we veered too much to the left and found steep cliff drops right before the parking lot. We had to make 2 rappels on trees. We came to the car at 6:15 PM.
Another great day!





Gear Notes:
2 half ropes
2 pairs of tools per climber
A set of cams from 0.2” to 3”: TCUs: blue, yellow, orange, red; BD camalots: 0.2, 0.3, 0.75, 3; Omega Pacific link cams: purple and yellow. Used most of them.
10 runners, 2 quickdraws
6 pitons. Used 2. There are some old pitons on a route.
Climbing hammer.
6 ice screws – not used.
2 pickets – not used.


Approach Notes:
We followe this topo:
http://kurthicks.com/2012/02/18/snoqualmie-mountain-nw-face-topo/
Deep snow on approach.

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#1146207 - 01/14/16 07:53 AM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: Alex789]
Choada_Boy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/05/05
Posts: 2432
TRs: 4 Photos: 39
Loc: Your Mom's House
Sweet day!!

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#1146209 - 01/14/16 09:57 AM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: Alex789]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 629
TRs: 20 Photos: 267
Loc: Potland, OR
I am glad Alex led the box gully pitch - there was very little ice and lots of funky unprotected climbing. Great skills!

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#1146214 - 01/14/16 10:56 AM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: Alex789]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17460
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
love the digi-cami smile
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#1146215 - 01/14/16 11:36 AM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: Alex789]
ilias Offline
member

Registered: 06/14/15
Posts: 104
TRs: 21 Photos: 339
Nice work! Glad your climb went smoother than ours smile

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#1146218 - 01/14/16 12:14 PM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: ilias]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 629
TRs: 20 Photos: 267
Loc: Potland, OR
Originally Posted By: ilias
Nice work! Glad your climb went smoother than ours smile


You did a great job fellas! 4 people is a slow train for such a difficult climb.

Thanks for breaking a trail for us!!!!!

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#1146229 - 01/14/16 08:43 PM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: OlegV]
Buckaroo Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 1596
TRs: 11 Photos: 349
Loc: forced bivy
AWESOME!

Looks like good weather but thin conditions, way to go.

Some good pics too, that jacket in the 2nd pic is like pixelated camo.
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Temporary Eternity

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#1146233 - 01/14/16 10:32 PM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: Alex789]
JonNelson Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/17/05
Posts: 89
TRs: 3 Photos: 38
Loc: Redmond, WA
The whole TR is great, but I particularly like that last picture of the fog pouring down through the gap. Did you capture it on video?

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#1146238 - 01/15/16 09:41 AM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: JonNelson]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 629
TRs: 20 Photos: 267
Loc: Potland, OR
Originally Posted By: JonNelson
The whole TR is great, but I particularly like that last picture of the fog pouring down through the gap. Did you capture it on video?


No video was captured - we were in a hurry to get down before it gets dark. We've noticed that the unnamed (?) valley to the right of the Alpental Valley had no clouds whatsoever!!!

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#1146239 - 01/15/16 09:44 AM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: Buckaroo]
OlegV Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/14/04
Posts: 629
TRs: 20 Photos: 267
Loc: Potland, OR
Originally Posted By: Buckaroo
AWESOME!

Looks like good weather but thin conditions, way to go.



Hey Chris! How are you doing with your injury? I hope you are completely recovered and ready for some hard shit.

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#1146308 - 01/19/16 06:19 PM Re: [TR] Mount Snoqualmie - New York Gully 1/13/2016 [Re: Alex789]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2567
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
Glad the approach beta worked for you! Nice work.
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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