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#1032152 - 08/24/11 04:32 PM [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011
Bronco Offline

Registered: 02/16/01
Posts: 3555
TRs: 15 Photos: 131
Loc: Port Gardner, WA
Trip: Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress

Date: 8/21/2011

Trip Report:
Bonathanjarrett, Juan Sharp and I were second in line at Marblemount Ranger Station on Saturday morning when they opened the door. We obtained our permit for Goode Backcountry Saturday night, 2 Mile Camp in the Camp Creek drainage for Sunday night and we promised to hang our food. The ranger told us there would be no trees from which to hang our food where we intended to camp, so in order to appease her we accepted some extra blue bags and quickly scooted out the door. As we exited the Ranger Station, a paranoid hiker told each of us that there was “a lot of bear activity” in the North Cascades. We were so scared.

Departing the trailhead at 8:40 am we cheerfully ate up the first several miles before spotting a black bear just below the trail. It glared and snorted in our general direction so we moved on.

Reloaded with water at the suspension bridge, we reached the junction of the N. Fork of Bridge Creek and turned up valley.
This trail was in great shape to Grizzly Creek Camp but became overgrown to the point we were just trying to follow the path of least resistance. This path eventually became choked with Nettles and Thistle. It was too hot to want to wear pants and a few nettles didn’t seem too intimidating. We charged through the gauntlet of thorny vegetation and kept fighting for what seemed like miles until we broke out onto the creek bed. Legs stinging and bleeding, we located a pair of large logs downstream and crossed into the slide alder choosing a slightly rising traverse to the right. We refilled with more water under the snow field. Contemplating our route and wondering if another party without a permit would be at the magic bivy, we made good time up the 4th class

and brush

arriving at the bivy at approximately 5:30 pm. We drank more water, spread out our sacks under the looming north face of Goode and enjoyed the view over dinner.

Then we hung our food. From a tree.
The alarms sounded at 4:30 am. We quickly ate breakfast noting the stars blinking out of a clear sky and rolled up camp. Leaving the bivy at 5:36 we gained altitude to the glacier. Juan found a direct ramp onto the glacier and we were soon assessing the various options for crossing the moat. Juan found one that would “go” and noted others as possibilities.

Bonathanjarrett racked up and took the first lead of moderate 5th class (loose 5.5 that felt like 5.8 to me) and brought Juan and me up to a semi-hanging belay. Another half pitch brought us to easier climbing on the ridge.

We agreed the youthful rope gun should continue in the lead with Juan and me simul-climbing until he wanted to relinquish the lead. This turned out to be never.

We hung on like aging water-skiers behind the SS Jonathan as he motored up the buttress. What a treat!

Which way do we go?


We stopped a couple of times to return gear but really didn’t encounter much sustained climbing over the rest of the route.

Here's a rare picture of us with Johnathan on route.

There were several short sections of fun moves on good holds. Near the summit, we encountered another team of three ascending the SW couloir route and they graciously allowed us to pass. No summit register to be found, just an empty sardine can. Was it Fred’s? It took our team approximately 4:50from the time we left the glacier to summit.

Where's Waldo(Dave)?

At the second rap station, we discovered a pair of cut ropes headed down the wrong descent gully complete with a ‘biner that had the REI price tag still on it. Looked like an epic. Whoever you are, we have your ropes. You can have them in exchange for the story.

The "obvious dirt ledge" according to Beckey

The descent was chossy and steep but we eventually made it to the timber and found our way down to the Park Creek Trail, arriving in 2 Mile Camp after an hour of walking. We reached camp exactly at sunset, 8:02 pm. The fire kept the bugs at bay while we ate and discussed the day’s climb while avoiding the ominous hike we faced on Monday. After dinner we hung our food and then went to sleep knowing that our ranger friend would be so proud.

South Side of Goode from Camp Creek

Monday morning was a little cloudy and we lazily hiked out of camp at 8:00 am arriving at Bridge Creek Trailhead as a sprinkle of rain turned steady. We figured it was about 17 miles and 9 hours of hiking. Probably a similar amount of time to return to the trail head from the regular bivy but eliminating the problematic descent through the Storm King Col. Most importantly to Juan, on the way out, he captured a small, male Rubber Boa on the trail. They are the only true boa that inhabits the Northwest and are seldom seen as they are nocturnal and generally hide in burrows. We took some pictures of Juan’s slithery little friend while it pooped on his hand. The Snake Whisperer eventually freed his rubbery soul mate and we pressed on

Juan is also the proud recipient of the “tough-guy” award for not complaining about his blisters.

Edited by Bronco (08/25/11 11:20 AM)

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#1032158 - 08/24/11 05:17 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Bronco]
Tyson.g Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/07/10
Posts: 1000
TRs: 7 Photos: 136
Loc: Bellingham
Ouch! Those blisters! Freaking OUCH!
Nice job gents!

Please note I am posting this as a joke.

#1032159 - 08/24/11 05:19 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Bronco]
JasonG Offline

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2780
TRs: 107 Photos: 1811
Loc: Mount Vernon
That is some of the worst blister carnage I have ever seen!

"My blisters sure are painful, but at least the hike out is long and uphill."

#1032161 - 08/24/11 05:29 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: JasonG]
Juan Sharp Offline

Registered: 09/07/09
Posts: 72
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Jason: I was spewing Jason-isms all weekend. "It sure is hot, but at least the trail is really dusty."

#1032184 - 08/24/11 09:06 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Juan Sharp]
curtveld Offline
old hand

Registered: 09/01/03
Posts: 1062
TRs: 22 Photos: 190
Loc: Bellingham
A great NCNP classic for sure!

I'm not much of a snake guy but those rubber boas are so cool. I was up in SE BC this summer and saw them listed as a species at risk.

Edited by curtveld (08/24/11 09:54 PM)
Edit Reason: added link

#1032185 - 08/24/11 09:08 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Bronco]
dougd Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 852
TRs: 5 Photos: 17
Loc: Spokane
Cruel shoes indeed! Those heels look pretty bad. Even worse than a buddy of mine after hiking across the Grand Canyon (S-N) some years back. They just got worse every day but that tough little bastard limped up and out the N Rim... It was either that or the suffer the indignity of the evac chopper... It was hard to watch him try to walk...

Nice work fellas and thanks for sharing.

The older the violin, the sweeter the music...

#1032227 - 08/25/11 08:28 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Bronco]
dberdinka Offline

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2200
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
Such a nice climb. One of my all time favorites. We picked up a pretty big rubber boa on the Snow Creek Trail a couple years back. Beautiful creature and seemingly quite friendly.
You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm!

#1032276 - 08/25/11 12:38 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Juan Sharp]
bobinc Offline
addicted to

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 500
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: yoyoingonI-5
"you can't drive a snake to work!!"

#1032281 - 08/25/11 12:53 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: bobinc]
Juan Sharp Offline

Registered: 09/07/09
Posts: 72
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Amen Brother Bob!

#1032427 - 08/26/11 03:43 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Bronco]
ptownclimber Offline

Registered: 05/22/06
Posts: 124
TRs: 22 Photos: 132
Loc: Portland, OR
nice - funny seeing you at the ranger station.
"The indoor life is the next best thing to premature burial" - Edward Abbey

#1032567 - 08/28/11 03:39 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Bronco]
Dan_Miller Offline
addicted to

Registered: 01/29/06
Posts: 445
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: Seattle/Heronwood
Good job gents!

First trip out with the Salewa's Juan?
'What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above.'

Rene Daumal

#1032652 - 08/29/11 11:27 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Dan_Miller]
Juan Sharp Offline

Registered: 09/07/09
Posts: 72
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Yes, first trip with them. I have always worn my climbing boots on the approach going back to 1985 -- these Salewa boots were particularly unforgiving on my 48-year old feet, however. 100% blister free!

#1032716 - 08/29/11 09:31 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Bronco]
mtngrl Offline

Registered: 11/11/06
Posts: 3
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
Loc: Seattle, WA
We were the one ones who went down the "other" gully. It was more of an unwanted adventure than an epic. Regardless we don't need our ropes back. I'm happy to hear the next party did not follow our same decent. Hope your ankles have healed by now. Wish I could get that image out of my head! Ouch!

#1032761 - 08/30/11 09:18 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: mtngrl]
JasonG Offline

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2780
TRs: 107 Photos: 1811
Loc: Mount Vernon
I don't know.... cut ropes, unwanted adventure/epic, other/wrong gully, price tag on 'biner.... sure sounds like a good story to me. Please, do tell.

#1033038 - 09/01/11 06:18 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress 8/21/2011 [Re: Bronco]
mountainsloth Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 824
TRs: 26 Photos: 593
Loc: Seatte, WA
I just picked up a pair of those same boots. They guarantee 100% blister-free feet. I think you should take them back!

Nice ascent gentlemen.


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