Goose Egg - Spoil illDate:
In the early part of this millennium, the Deep Water Horizon was constructed and started drilling for oil throughout the world's oceans. At around the same time, Stoney and I searched for our own spoils on the south face of the Goose Egg. We started several drilling operations and discovered much untapped potential. Several routes were constructed and in 2003 the beginnings of a new project were under way without any plans or regulations. But years of procrastination, underfunding, and lack of oversight went by and the route was left as an unfinished project.
On April 20, 2010 when the Deepwater Horizon was terminated, it was about time that our new route was finished as well. We spent days moving up and down our vertical production platform commencing our own clean-up operation and plugging away at the insufferable cliff. But even after the route was finally finished, it was left unclimbed.
Finally in mid July of 2010 as the Gulf oil spill was finally capped off, it was time to cap off our route with a proper ground up ascent. And thus Spoil Ill was born.
We started early in the morning July 20 to beat the scorching heat of EWA, but an opportune cloud cover kept temps perfect for sending. Overall we found interesting and sustained face climbing on better than average rock for the Goose Egg. This great moderate route makes a fun alternative to Ride the Lightning or The Commandho Pillar. To all you Gooseeggafarians: Enjoy!
So here's the beta:
The route starts 100' feet to the left of Ride the Lightning. Take 13 draws and a very small rack — .4-2.5". The pitches spill out like this:
P1: 130', 5.7, 9 bolts; Excellent and straightforward edgy face climbing with a short crux.
P2: 100', 5.8, 7 bolts + gear; More fun face climbing following a seam that occasionally takes pro.
P3: 100', 5.10c, 13 bolts + gear; Superb thin and sustained face climbing, very well protected with bolts on a LFC, contains a lower crux. A small roof is avoided by traversing right to a rest stance, then more tweaky face encountered above. Gear is optional in the last 15 feet.
P4: 80', 5.9, 4 bolts + gear; Traverses left from the belay toward a small roof. Establishing under the roof and clipping the 2nd bolt is the crux. Easy climbing above leads up and left to a false anchor. Clip this, and continue up the corner 15 feet, then climb out left up a dirty crack with a hidden bolt on the left face. 3 spread-out bolts make the belay.
P5: 150', 5.10a, 7 bolts + gear; Climbs out left then up a gully system, out right onto a face, then back left into the gully. One run-out easier section (probably needs another bolt) is encountered.
p6: 150', 5.0, gear; a pleasant and easy gully is followed straight up to the top, where it ends in a typical pile of loose blocks. Exit left to intersect the trail down to the rappel route, or continue up to walk off.
And here are some pics:
Looking up at the first 3.5 pitches of Spoil Ill from the base. Follow the bolts!
Me leading the first pitch with really cool roofs above.
Stoney setting out on pitch 2.
Me leading pitch 3 — the highlight of the route.
Looking down from the top of pitch 3. The route comes up the dark gray rock below.
Stoney coming up the upper crux of pitch 3.
Stoney leading through the roof on pitch 4.
Me poking my head over the same roof. The Ride the Lightning dihedral can be seen across the face.
Looking down from the top of pitch 5.
Top-out views of Kloochman Rock.
An overview of the routes on the Egg. Click here
for larger version.