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#669830 - 04/16/07 07:16 PM [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007
skykilo Offline
veteran

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1250
TRs: 25 Photos: 8
Loc: SF, NM
Trip: Mt Deception - Northeast Chute

Date: 4/15/2007

Trip Report:

Mt Deception: We skied the obvious chute that joins the summit ridge on looker's right. Phil stands in the distance next to the trees.

As our newfound interest in the Olympic Mountains blooms across the Puget Sound in the metropoles, it is nice for little worker bees to harvest some nectar now and then. Instead of crabbing about previous misfortunes, I clawed for my next opportunity to explore above the Dungeness River. "Olympic Peninsula" may trigger images of lush rainforests and terrible weather in the minds of most, but the peninsula hosts enough mountains to create a rainshadow, too. Sequim's paltry annual average of 16.1 inches of rain is signifantly less than Leavenworth's 25. Phil and I left Seattle in the wee hours of the morning for a circuitous drive over Tacoma Narrows, north to Sequim, then south above the Dungeness.

The weather was beautiful. We donned our packs with glee, ecstatic for the eight-mile hike to Royal Basin. The gorgeous moss-carpeted old-growth forest along the Dungeness reminds me of similar sylvan scenery along Fisher Creek in the North Cascades.

Royal Basin had a consistent snowpack. Navigation to the head of the basin took a few redirects due to a gauntlet of benches, moraines, and minidrainages. Our first views of Deception were delightful; its snowpack was fat. We were also delighted to ogle myriad magnificent terrain with all aspects available at the head of the basin.


Looking down the valley from just below Royal Basin


Phil boots toward the head of the basin.

Dust over crust in the basin became boot-top blower on our route, the northeast chute. What is this? Light, fluffy powder on the Olympic Peninsula in the middle of April!? As giddy as school boys we booted up the route as quickly as our approach-taxed legs could kick. There was an icy spot where the route became more steep and exposed, then a steep section at the top of the chute. The ridge to the summit held copious snow.


Phil dons crampons.


Phil climbs to the top. He measured the slope where he is at 50 degrees with one of those little LifeLink gadgets.

The views were fleeting. Clouds were building from the west. Any disappointment was amply stifled by a successful summit and lovely line to ski. I've been expending big efforts with little success lately. Phil was expressing similar sentiments that prompted me to respond, "Let's get the descent under our belts before we celebrate too much."


Ready to ski

A quick schuss down the ridge put us at the notch. Phil peered over it first. I joined him, noting that I didn't like the way the powdery inch on top uniformly slid from under the skis. I took a turn and my feelings about it didn't change. I wasn't concerned so much about avalanches as the slightly unpredictable snow suface. I sidestepped the first bit until I felt better about the snow, then made some steep turns on lovely edge-holding chalky snow. Phil followed.

And on my first ski descent from a summit in the Olympics, Zeus said, "Let there be powder!"

Phil likes powder...





...and I do, too. (Last photo by Phil)

We returned on the ferry, but my mind is still floating in the clouds, tangled in a web of Deceit. Saltwater-rainforests-sunshine-April-POWDER???

Gear Notes:
Just crampons and an ice ax. Didn't use the skins.

Approach Notes:
Boat/Bridge->Highway->Dirt road->Trail->Royal Basin

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#669853 - 04/16/07 08:26 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: skykilo]
Norman_Clyde Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/29/01
Posts: 845
TRs: 6 Photos: 18
Loc: Seattle, WA
Now that you've seen how many aspects of this basin remain to be sampled, I'm sure you will have to return.

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#670182 - 04/17/07 07:09 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: skykilo]
olyclimber Offline

☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 24481
TRs: 31 Photos: 838
Loc: In Love with You
Awesome Sky! I love it up there. I want to try out my new skiis up there to.
_________________________
SNACKS!!!!!

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#670233 - 04/17/07 09:46 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: skykilo]
ryanl Offline
member

Registered: 05/31/05
Posts: 176
TRs: 19 Photos: 424
Loc: shoreline
Soudns like a great trip Sky. Looks like I chose poorly. Ended up with an horrendous approach to unpleasant snow on Canon mtn couloir. Talk about big efforts with disproportionate rewards! Live and learn I guess. Anyway, I'm glad you guys had a good time...

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#670313 - 04/18/07 08:10 AM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: ryanl]
OlympicMtnBoy Online   content
Marilyn Monroe

Registered: 09/23/03
Posts: 1148
TRs: 38 Photos: 73
Loc: Georgetown (Seattle)
Yep, the Olympics always have a little more hidden away then you think. Nice job getting out there. Now I just wonder if the steepest part of that face even becomes a fun snow/ice climb? Hehehe.

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#670584 - 04/18/07 12:52 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: OlympicMtnBoy]
skykilo Offline
veteran

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1250
TRs: 25 Photos: 8
Loc: SF, NM
My first reaction to this view was that the line directly to the summit might be a good ski descent.


Looking in my 1979 version of the OMR Guide, it appears that the route we skied is called the Honeymoon Route and was first climbed by a pair with the same last name. Is this a married couple that climbed it during their honeymoon? Anyone?

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#670630 - 04/18/07 01:32 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: skykilo]
olyclimber Offline

☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 24481
TRs: 31 Photos: 838
Loc: In Love with You

_________________________
SNACKS!!!!!

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#670804 - 04/18/07 05:42 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: olyclimber]
skykilo Offline
veteran

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1250
TRs: 25 Photos: 8
Loc: SF, NM
After further consultation, maybe we did what the guide calls the NE Face, #5. Anyway, it's easy to tell in the picture: the obvious chute left of the tower and right of the summit. Those little sketches look cool, but I don't find them all that informative.

Oh yeah: Cool picture for comparison, Oly.

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#670808 - 04/18/07 06:07 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: skykilo]
philfort Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/05/00
Posts: 1172
TRs: 8 Photos: 33
Loc: Seattle
I like how the fluorescent orange section on my pole seems to upset the jpeg compression.

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#670833 - 04/18/07 07:12 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: skykilo]
olyclimber Offline

☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 24481
TRs: 31 Photos: 838
Loc: In Love with You
Originally Posted By: skykilo


Looking in my 1979 version of the OMR Guide, it appears that the route we skied is called the Honeymoon Route and was first climbed by a pair with the same last name. Is this a married couple that climbed it during their honeymoon? Anyone?


http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/notes/comm/firey-joe.html

well, even if you didn't ski that route, maybe Lowell would know...see the references to the Bloomers in this article. yeah...i know, maybe it isn't that interesting to know...
_________________________
SNACKS!!!!!

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#670893 - 04/18/07 09:57 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: olyclimber]
Animal Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/28/04
Posts: 99
TRs: 17 Photos: 111
Loc: Bremeton, WA

Sweet! looks Like a great trip!
_________________________
The Animal!
Free the heel, free the mind, free the soul!
Remember turns are a sign of fear!

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#671459 - 04/19/07 10:33 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: skykilo]
bremerton_john Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/27/03
Posts: 256
TRs: 14 Photos: 148
Loc: Bremerton
Arnie and Dina Bloomer did climb that route on their honeymoon in 1965. She apparently spotted the route and they went for it. Arnie confirmed this himself today.

John

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#671833 - 04/20/07 05:51 PM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: bremerton_john]
AJScott Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/19/04
Posts: 290
TRs: 8 Photos: 50
Loc: Leaventucky
werd...nice timing! olympics are so fun. That is a great little rain shadow up there...

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#672057 - 04/22/07 07:31 AM Re: [TR] Mt Deception - Northeast Chute 4/15/2007 [Re: AJScott]
Feck Online   happy
Spray Master

Registered: 11/08/00
Posts: 11214
TRs: 67 Photos: 897
Loc: Seattle, WA
I've never skied in the Olympics. Next year I may have to change that. Cool pics of a nice ski.
_________________________
http://symbiosistree.com/index.html

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