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#1101955 - 04/04/13 07:46 PM [TR] Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face 4/1/2013
danhelmstadter Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/22/07
Posts: 409
TRs: 88 Photos: 22
Loc: pnw
Trip: Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face

Date: 3/31-4/2/2013

Trip Report:
I left Sunday afternoon with plans to explore Royal Basin, stocked with several days worth of food an gas, a guitar, and plenty of stoke.

I got there as the day was fading, and eyed a potential line on the East face of Mt. Deception. Got started around dawn and was happy to find good consolidated spring conditions low down, the snow got deeper with elevation. I was tempted to ski linked turns off the summit, but sluff management was necessary. The crux came in a gully low on the face. I first tried to ski the way I had climbed, but found it too awkward and icy so I climbed back up a little and went skiers left over a ice bulge, it was steeper but sun kissed unlike the way I had climbed.

I skied down to the floor of the basin and was so stoked I decided to climb and ski the NE chute. Conditions were a little crusty in spots but not bad, it is a beautiful line and was very fun to ski.

That night was cold and windy and I didn't get much sleep. In the morning I half dozed in my sun warmed sleeping bag for a while enjoying the sounds of the wind through the trees. My plan was to slog out that day. On the way out I saw an alluring east face and decided to go for it. It was awesome, a little shorter and steeper than the east face route I skied on Deception.

On my drive in, I came across a stranded couple walking down the road, they had listened to their radio too long roadside camping and killed their battery. I didn't have jumper cables but I obliged to letting them swap out my truck battery for a few minutes.

IMG_0010 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

Mt. Deception

east face by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


IMG_0031 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


IMG_0046 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

crux, icy neve in the shade.

IMG_0049 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


IMG_0039 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

East face of Needles peak 7638' on left

IMG_0081 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


needles by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

View south to Deception

IMG_0097 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr


IMG_0104 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

7638' from lower down

IMG_0114 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr





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#1101983 - 04/05/13 08:42 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face 4/1/2013 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Pete_H Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/20/09
Posts: 2543
TRs: 7 Photos: 186
Loc: Der
Nice Dan. I've been wanting to get back there for a while.

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#1102074 - 04/06/13 09:23 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face 4/1/2013 [Re: danhelmstadter]
Lowell_Skoog Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/25/00
Posts: 2492
TRs: 4 Photos: 15
Loc: Seattle, WA
I believe Peak 7638' is called Martin Peak in the Olympic climbing guide.

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#1102090 - 04/07/13 11:31 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face 4/1/2013 [Re: danhelmstadter]
OlympicMtnBoy Offline
Marilyn Monroe

Registered: 09/23/03
Posts: 1148
TRs: 38 Photos: 73
Loc: Georgetown (Seattle)
I keep meaning to get up in there to ski! Looks like fun! And Lowell is right, Martin peak is the last peak of the Needles, just before Deception.

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#1103393 - 04/25/13 08:21 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face 4/1/2013 [Re: OlympicMtnBoy]
Mattski Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/17/00
Posts: 38
TRs: 0 Photos: 8
Loc: Seattle,WA
Nice trip! I skied Deception last year and the East Face looked possible with more snow, and Martin looked like fun as well!
_________________________
Matt S.

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