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kurthicks

first ascent [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006

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Trip: Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA)

 

Date: 12/28/2006

 

Trip Report:

What do you do at Banks when it's not "in"?

 

You go mixed climbing.

 

Today Matt (NYC007) and I established a new route that is mentioned as a "rumor of ice" in the Washington Ice Guide. It is located between "The Cable" and "H202". We named the route "Brush Master" after it's slight resemblance to Mixed Master (which we just climbed last week). We found no traces of prior ascents.

 

The route starts on fractured basalt, by the road, left of the ice runnel to gain a snowy ledge. Traverse out right to the icicles and ascend the brushy ramp, protected with many many crappy knifeblades, to thicker ice above. I belayed after about 50m, just after the first ice step (yellow/gray aliens helpful). The last 50' of ice were sunbaked and partially detached, but the sun was shining and it was a great, although quite technical, pitch. After that, one double rope rappel from the now slung bush brought us back to the ground. A nice little mixed route.

 

Brush Master (click for topo)

Img_0009-1.jpg

 

 

Me leading the first mixed crux

Img_0033-1.jpg

 

Higher up on the sun baked and detached pillar.

Img_0043-1.jpg

 

Img_0048-1.jpg

 

A good day out

Img_0020-1.jpg

 

"Brush Master"

II, 65M

WI4+, 5.7

FA: Kurt Hicks, Matt Cusack

 

Gear Notes:

An arsenal of knifeblades (8 or so)

small cams

#1 or 2 camalot (optional for last pitch)

a couple screws & screamers

slings

double ropes to rappel

 

 

Approach Notes:

Park about 100m south of H202.

Edited by kurthicks

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nice work you two. looks cool. can you email details re: where its at milepost wise?

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Sweet! That makes me look like a wimp and i though i was cool when i did my first ice lead (Devils Punch bowl) today.

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where its at milepost wise?

 

This is the climb between The Cable and H2O2.

 

We did our best to clean the brush at the belays and on route, but it is still a little prickly. I think a couple more ascents will result in less brush on the ramp, thus resulting in more ice (since it won't be taken up by the bushes). Also, cleaning the cattails from the ledges will definately help increase the ice.

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Sweet! :tup:

 

Who's gonna finish off that large flow south of Zenith??

 

Anyone wanna give me a belay. :wazup:

 

Or take me over there.

Edited by powderhound

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