Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Alex789

[TR] Colchuck Peak - NE couloir 4/2/2017

Recommended Posts

Trip: Colchuck Peak - NE couloir

 

Date: 4/2/2017

 

Trip Report:

My friend Jesus and I climbed Colchuck Peak NE couloir last weekend. The road to the Stuart Lake trailhead is closed and I expect it to be opened later this season as there is a lot of snow in Mountaineering Creek. We camped at the Colchuck Lake still frozen solid.

We left our tent at 4:45. The weather was windy and it snowed.

The climbing was straightforward with good snow to kick steps. The bergshrund posed no problems. We climbed unroped and Jesus carried our rope in a pack as an exercise. We took left gully entrance and the climbing steepened. We came to a large overhanging cornice and could not see any logical exit. We carried our avalanche kits with us and Jesus told: "We have shovels, why don't we just punch a hole in it?" So we did. Almost 2 hours of digging and we made a good tunnel to escape on top of the ridge.

Proud of our work, we continued to the summit.

Currently the cornice is pretty solid, but with warming temperatures in spring it might collapse one day.

043.jpg

 

056.JPG

 

061.jpg

065.JPG

079.jpg

076.jpg

078.JPG

080.JPG

081.JPG

085.jpg

086.JPG

088.jpg

089.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

1 60m rope

2 ice tools - each

3 ice screws - not used

3 pickets - used 2

Small rock rack - not used

Several slings - used 2 for pickets

Avi kits - each, including snow shovels

 

Approach Notes:

A lot of snow, flotation is needed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Damn. That is a fine route, but the exit looks even spicier than normal this year!

 

I once fell un-roped into the 'schrund, but that might not be a big concern this snowy spring.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×