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About DPS

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999
  1. [TR] Chair Pk - NW Ridge 02/11/2018

    Did you climb up to the big chock stone chimney, which would be the top of pitch two or three? Did you then stick to the ridge crest, the photo of Don appears to be on the south side of the ridge? Did you follow the summer route? Thanks! As an aside, I think it is very cool that FWAs are still happening at Snoqualmie Pass and folks like Chris Simmons are doing a lot of exploration and fitting together really interesting enchainments. Snoqualmie Pass is like little Scotland. When the conditions are ripe, the goods are excellent. I did a Tooth to Denny traverse in the summer which was really cool, if a bit contrived. I think in good winter conditions traversing the NE Slab of the Tooth to Denny Mt. would be a good, long day out. There is also a striking prow on Hemlock Peak (I think) climbers right of the NE Slab on the Tooth that I have seen in climbable, thickly ice conditions. That would be a cool way up Hemlock and could enchain the rock pitches on the north ridge.
  2. [TR] Chair Pk - NW Ridge 02/11/2018

    I'm not happy about having my climb poached. Gerrit and Jake will corroborate that I had intentions on the winter ascent as far back as 2013. I even placed a piton with a red tag, but it was probably covered in ice. In all seriousness, nice work. A very cool addition to winter climbing in the Snoqualmie Pass area!
  3. HI Curt, You probably don't remember me, but I climbed WR Forbidden with you and Carlos Hatfield 25 years ago. I was chatting with a colleague whom I worked, climbed, and skied with for 20 years. He just mentioned he had a class with Gary Gray at WWU. Small world. Good to see you still setting out. DPS
  4. [TR] Chair Pk - NW Ridge 02/11/2018

    Yes Jake, Mark has crushed my dreams of making the FWA of the West Ridge (unclimbed in winter according to someone at Pro Ski and Guide). Remember when we went to attempt it but stopped at the North Face because it was so heavily iced? Ahhh, what could have been.
  5. Inspiration needed- where to go?

    Well, that would be the best time frame. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  6. Inspiration needed- where to go?

    Quiet you, some of us have tick lists you know.
  7. Inspiration needed- where to go?

    Hyalite, Montana.
  8. Water Filtration: is it necessary?

    I did my graduate school research and dissertation on waterborne pathogens (Giardia spp., Cryptosporidum parvum, and Fecal Coliform bacteria). Every stream I tested had the protozoans, however, they were typically at concentrations far below what is necessary to cause an infection. That said, if there were protozoans present, Fecal Coliform bacteria was typically in the millions of CFU per 100 ml. One of the take aways is you are more likely to encounter bacteria than protozoans, which can still make you very, very sick.
  9. The Tooth speed record?

    So, I know four people who have done the Tooth in 1:58. Jens K did it on skis in 1:32 (I think). As for most ascents, I don't know, but I've done it between 25-30 times. Jim Sykes called fast soloing the Tooth Toothercising.
  10. Black Diamond Firstlight is on sale: https://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-firstlight-tent-2-person-3-season?CMP_SKU=BLD1186&MER=0406&skid=BLD1186-WAS-ONESIZ&mr:trackingCode=A2E49D7F-8F66-E311-9C6B-BC305BF82376&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pa&mr:ad=8823334149&mr:filter=4580840319639064&CMP_ID=PLA_BNmyDeviceIndicator=c001&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=PLA&k_clickid=ad1b5973-f54f-4b6f-b879-67874ba28ac4&rmatt=tsid:1042798|cid:43125974|agid:3780426122|tid:kwd-4580840319639064:aud-806123401|prd:BLD1186-WAS-ONESIZ|crid:8823334149|nw:search|dvc:c|st:black%20diamond%20tent|mt:be Also, have you considered a tarp? They are light, cheap, roomy and work well in the winter. I have used my BD Betamid for 16 years in all seasons. If I were to get a new one I would look hard at the Mountainsmith Shelter LT.
  11. Thoughts on Hood South Side...

    I personally would not want to see any rocks, just snow and ice. If there are rocks peeking through, in my mind there is not enough snow. You don't want to climb on frozen rocks. Better than unfrozen rocks, but still not ideal. Be patient and wait for more snow so then you will only have to worry about avalanches.
  12. Thoughts on Hood South Side...

    I think rock fall would be a serious issue. I personally would wait until the mountain gets a lot more snow and it has time to consolidate.
  13. I really wanted the older version of the Thor, the red one, but I could not find one anywhere. I ended up buying a Salewa, which was the lightest of the bunch, as well as the least expensive.
  14. Thanks for your feedback. I have my eye on a Petzl Bongo, I think that would be a good balance between driving ability and carrying too much weight.
  15. So, after a few attempts I've finally accepted leash less ice climbing as more than a passing fad. I bought a pair of Nomic copies (Grivel somethings). They don't have hammers or adzes, and even if they did the radical curve would make it very difficult to pound in pitons. Has anybody carried a light piton hammer with them along with their leash less tools? I likes my pitons, and I can't see a down side other than carrying a bit more weight. Thoughts?