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Posted

Directions to the Show (Thanks Cat-bird) All 3 of us will be there.(:

The First Congregational Church is on Rockafeller

about a block north of Everett Avenue. Take I-5 to

the Broadway exit and take Broadway to Everett Avenue

and turn left, then right on Rockafeller. Alternately

you can stay on the freeway and exit at Pacific Avenue

and take it to Broadway and turn right, then left on

Everett Avenue, etc.

 

Aug 6. 7 pm The team requests folks carpool grin.gif, Please. . We will figure out a Seattle show, And I do pdx when it rains.

 

 

Posted

Wayne, it would be cool if you could annotate the photo (do you need permission for that?) then repost it so as to show us which spire is which. I know I could look in Beckey, but he may not mention them all (such as the Blob and the Blip). Otherwise, nice panorama. Here's a similar one from Snowfield Peak.

Posted
klenke said:

Wayne, it would be cool if you could annotate the photo (do you need permission for that?) then repost it so as to show us which spire is which. I know I could look in Beckey, but he may not mention them all (such as the Blob and the Blip). Otherwise, nice panorama. Here's a similar one from Snowfield Peak.

 

I did an annoteted and topo copy of it but I may need Colin or Mark to load it to the site after we get permission from Gregg.

Posted

It was a great honor to host The Ed Cooper at both pub club(thanks Jim) and the Picket show. What a surprise cooincidence. He did 4 of the fas of the pickets we did and was the first to see the North cirque of the so picks as well. He proly did as many fas in the Picks as you know who.

That is a place I am looking forward to visitn.

Lets hear from people who have been there? Lowell is the only other person I have met.

 

 

Posted

Congratulations on a fantastic climb. Achieving a long-standing objective in good style while making a major first ascent is grounds for celebration - in whatever fashion you damn well please. bigdrink.gif

 

I am not aspiring to the second ascent just yet, but really want to climb the E ridge of Inspiration later in August with a buddy and from what I've heard it would be best to avoid tramping up and down the Terror glacier. I was wondering if you could comment on the difficulty/route to get from McMillan over to the E ridge of Inspiration. Difficulty? Rock quality? Other major obstacles?

Once over Inspiration what would be the best route down off the Mtn back to flatland? We'd plan to go super light (right!) and carry over.

Any comments would be appreciated.

What we're looking for is a tremendously exposed ridge that's not harder than 5.9 or so and doesn't require extensive crevasse hopscotch. If there's another ridge in your enchainment that is as good or better than Inspiration and meets these criteria I'd love to hear about it.

........

Finally, will you be giving any more slideshows? I bet you could get people to pay to see it down here in Seattle...

just a thought.

 

Posted

Ya there is a show sep 10 7pm, at second ascent,.

I havent gone directly up to the E ridge of Insp.But...

The traverse from west mac to Insp. e ridge is very nice it can be done up high or low on the ridge.it allows you to bag w mac too. Ading a couple pitches is nice too.the issue is getting down w ridge of Insp. Some say the glacier is bad right now , but who knows. I found a direct rap that avoids the big shrund. I cant think of a better intro to the spickets. The 3-Mac traverse is quite good too!

Posted

Very awesome and spectacular presentations: Wayne, Colin and Mark. One of my favorites is "close encounters."

I am going to the Seattle show on the 10th of Sept. I hope to bring my friend, who missed the meeting last August 6th. Can you email me directions to the place please? Thanks a bunch.

 

Bernadette

Posted

Wayne,

Thanks for the beta. Weather permitting, we'll have a go at the mini-traverse you mention. Can you comment on the difficulties of continuing past Inspiration up Pyramid and Degenhart in hopes of descending down the Barrier ridge? That would add a lot of spectacular climbing and avoid the Terror glacier entirely. Feasible for 5.9 mortals? Decent bivy sites on route (I see you didn't bivy in that section)? Drinking water access? Thanks much.

Definitely planning to attend the slideshow.

Posted

Rad,

 

From Inspiration's summit there's downclimbing and a few single-rope raps (a 60m is nice), then some really fun and solid climbing up to maybe 5.8 on Pyramid. Easy scrambing gets you up and down Degenhardt. I don't remember what it looked like getting down to the Barrier from there, but it sounds like it's been done.

 

Re: descending the Barrier, scope the descent ramp from the upper Terror Basin.

The place to descend the east side of the Barrier is maybe 200 vertical feet below the highest trees. Follow the crest down until you find a rather indistinct, treed ramp leading skier's left. We left a small cairn at this point. There's one sketchy dirt traverse (I put on crampons), and ~5.6 downclimbing (possible to rap off trees).

 

That's a pretty cool traverse right there, have a blast!

 

Cheers,

Mark

  • olyclimber changed the title to [TR] Walking The Fence

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