Jump to content

Fun graphic


Peter_Puget

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...

OK, I just got a partner cancellation (whopping cough it sounded like:-) on tomorrows climb. It turns it into a casual romp to a serious endeavor if I can stick it out. Basically I want to go try and solo this pinnacle.

The_Dragons_spine.jpg That's the Dragons Spine Pinnacle up there taken from the side view. The other side and going up the front, and what would be the second pitch to the top, is badass and needs to be done. Myself and 2 other fine dudes had done the only route to the top just the other day via a a route which you can see in this pic. But I'm talking a different line. I think I'll take a shot at a solo. No support. No buddies. No phone reception. No helicopters. Just Me...and rock. That's it. ...and a harness...that's it. ....and my rock shoes...that's it. ...OK, a rope as well but that's it...OK, I'll bring some bolting shit. Looks easy from the armchair. Just climb up them loose knobs and be done with it. The fall to the dirt is @ 300+ feet. Ask Tappet #2 how that sound is as the Cilogear Big Wally took a 200 footer there and angered into the dirt yesterday which I heard from up the cliff through my ear muff protectors! If I don't come back, this would have been the way I would have wanted to go, that is, if I was like 100 and ten fucking years old and sucking my last rattling breath and not a young 56. :grin: Fortunately, going quick has it's rewards....not as good as a 2% cash back credit card, but it could be worse. Ask someone with terminal cancer.

 

So todelloo all - remember that the Golden Rule isn't the Golden Shower, and you should really treat others as you would like to be treated. This means you too Pat- you dickhead. LOL! Seriously, lets top off a pint together sometime, without fisticuffs I mean. If we don't get to it first and I check out tomorrow, feel free to quaff one without me and then piss on my grave, I'll be cracking up if ya do.

I'd gotten lucky on this one below earlier. I'd also put that TR in spray, where most of my good stuff wound up anyway. Hey Dwayner, we stuck in some rap bolts to get off of it for the 2nd ascent and so far it's seen 4 ascents. So you missed out, go back to whacking your pud online instead of climbing. I invited you. Pope too. It's a great route: The Salathe Highway. No bolts, pins or anything of substance for the FA. You'd have like it. Then we put in the bolts for a rap anchor. (insert sad face here....NOT!)

 

Here's a great dude, highly recommended guy: Adam Winslow on the 2nd ascent which he kindly let me follow.

A_resized_Adam_on_the_2nd_ascent_of_The_Salathe_Highway.JPG

 

That one up there is on the left in the lower pinnacle. I'm hoping to be on the one on the right by the fir tree mid-center there. As it involves carrying lots of shit, like 60-70 lbs, and dieing if I screw up, my inner puss may come out and it might not happen. In Witch case we can laugh together ha ha ha ha ha ha.

resized_Cathedral_scenic_Feb_26th_2010_1_.JPG

 

Overview

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to quit drinking wine...it's going to ruin some relationships. Ujahn and I were going to go do a new route today, the 2nd pitch of a route we did earlier: it was to be the finish up to the top of the Dragons Spine Pinnacle. but yesterday he called me to bow out as he was very sick. So I started drinking and musing what I should go do, was thinking Beacon but figured it would be crowded. So I decided "What the hell" and to go solo the route Ujahn and I were going to do. I ran around packing and racking and all kinds of things, basically getting giddy with excitement. Killed most of a bottle of wine and was totally focused on the days procedures and plans when I wasn't focused on hitting the bottle. Last night's post

 

Wake up early today all fired to go solo and wham! it hits me upside the head like when you are slapped there with a cold carp: I'm like: holy crap, that's just a damn low thing to do, just ignore your buddy. So my first thought is I think I'll call him and get permission. But it's early and I'll be waking him up for this permission and that seems even more selfish as I know he'll wake up feeling like shit and say OK anyway cause he's such a nice dude. So I'm really feeling like a turd and moping around totally torn between still being fired up to go do it....figure I can't do this to my friend. But I sus out the opposite opinion as well (oh yes, it must be done! She MUST be mine). It was like I had the devil on one shoulder and the angle on the other - totally at odds and raging their thoughts inside of my head. I knew what the right thing to do was and that was to give up the ascent and keep my friend. Even after deciding I was close to changing my mine and firing it off anyway. To help me resist the temptation to grab the new route solo I toss my new LaSportiva TC Pro Shoes down the stairs with my Cilocear rope solo pack in disgust. Grab the rest of the crap and head out before I change my mind. Figure that I'll just go solo up another route to the top (the only route) and knock some rocks off and put in some bolts on the front. Then Ujahn and I can come back and do it together.

 

Rap anchor:

rap_anchor_on_Dragons_Spine_Pinnacle.JPG

 

It went well, wish I'd had my rock shoes instead of climbing with my approach shoes as the climbing I did do, but ces't le Vie. I soloed an existing line to the top of the pinnacle and rap bolt the front while kicking off the loose boulders and I got her done and back to the car @ 3 pm feeling like a pretty good guy who got the job done without stabbing his buddy in the back.

 

BTW: I'm drinking grape juice - non-alcoholic right now. Really:-)

__________________________________________________________

 

And the green bag was still there from the Tappett day 180' of so off the deck as of yesterday! I snapped a shot of me and it turned up in the picture background. See it there off to the right and lower?

 

BTW, do either of you Tappetts remember my serious talk about making sure that rap points were short enough to be available to some dumb asshat with a short rope? And do you also remember showing me my core shot/little off the end 11M rope, that is, the core shot you dudes caused showed me *cough* cough* :P ? Well, I cut that end off at night and took the same exact rope out and said fucking rope didn't reach the next rap anchor from this picture. Imagine! It got interesting at the rope end having a 50-60 lb pack hanging off my harness while staring at the rap anchors 10' or so and the deck 100' below me: Mr. Asshat. LOL! Proving that talking is only half of communication: listening being the other *cough* cough*. Not that this would had mattered, but in trying to pare weight, I had stashed both my wallet and my cell phone in the car -ha ha!

Resized_Bill_on_Dragons_Spine_solo_with_Green_bag_visible.JPG

I'll have that rap point fixed soon though, no worries.

 

Fortunately the sac is "GREEN" and folks can't bitchin' on "GREEN". LOL!

Hasta la vista amigos

:wave:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bill,

Just curious... why are you posting what amounts to a TR (an amusing one at that, BTW) in this thread about fun graphics?? And why did you delete your earlier post about the oil spill barrel counter (which was cool, BTW) and replace it with your "Last post and testament" in this thread? Are you lost?

 

Or are you still fuq'd up on that wine or what? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bill,

Just curious... why are you posting what amounts to a TR (an amusing one at that, BTW) in this thread about fun graphics?? And why did you delete your earlier post about the oil spill barrel counter (which was cool, BTW) and replace it with your "Last post and testament" in this thread? Are you lost?

It's how I roll. It avoids the unpleasantness so common elsewhere and I just find it humorous. Truthfully, no one gives a shit anyway - so I just post some banal-ass thing in spray. Once folks stop reading the thread and it's dead I go edit it with climbing info I would find interesting. It's put a few historical tidbits out there someone might search for or find interesting some day. Or not.

 

Search on "Corn" for instance.

 

Take care Paul! :wave:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bill,

Just curious... why are you posting what amounts to a TR (an amusing one at that, BTW) in this thread about fun graphics?? And why did you delete your earlier post about the oil spill barrel counter (which was cool, BTW) and replace it with your "Last post and testament" in this thread? Are you lost?

It's how I roll. It avoids the unpleasantness so common elsewhere and I just find it humorous. Truthfully, no one gives a shit anyway - so I just post some banal-ass thing in spray. Once folks stop reading the thread and it's dead I go edit it with climbing info I would find interesting. It's put a few historical tidbits out there someone might search for or find interesting some day. Or not.

 

Search on "Corn" for instance.

Did you mean this, Bill? :wave:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup! One of many Paul. I'm drinking wine and packing right now for a solo tomorrow.

 

Salethe = Salathe - got missed by the spel checkur. The bros renamed the place Coethedral too, so unless someone did a search of Cathedral - it's buried. I'm having a hard time calling it the new name, I like it, but my mind is not shifting gears quickly:-)

 

ps, how about that corn post? Got the Rooster all hot and bothered. No one else gives a shit! Hah hah!

 

_________________________________________________________

 

Retro edit re: your post immediately below - The Rooster has got to be Porter:-) It should be fine, but thanks! If I do git myself kilt, at least these shitty-assed pictures and retroposts will finally stop! LOL!

 

________________________________________________________

 

One more edit -earlier, the Tappets and I played hookey, took off Thursday and went up to play. Finished the last 100'+ or so of Gratitude to the rim with Geoff leading the FA. Here's some pics of that day.

 

Geoff marking the bolts for P2 of Gratitude

resized_Geoff_on_p2_Gratitude.jpg

 

Back on Terra Firma - Geoff leading while Kyle Belays him on Coecoenut Bridge

Geoff_and_Kyle_Silverman_on_Coecoenut_Bridge.jpg

 

Kyle on rappel with the Old Witch Pinnacle as a back drop.

resized_Kyle_on_rap.JPG

 

BTW, the solo (new route) yesterday kicked ass, but carrying all the other crap you need for bolting (drill, bits, hammer, etc etc) filled up my backpack to the point where I barely could fasten the lid down. It was staggeringly heavy to carry that shit up and rap in with it. I installed 29 big-assed 1/2" x 7" long stainless steel bolts

(like this)

Bolt_pic_resized.jpgand 2 rappel anchors (so carried up 4 Fixe anchors ass well)

(These)

resized_08-01-2009_Trench_Warfare_anchor_P1_FA.jpg

Climbing, while tired, cramping, having dust blow into your eyes while trying to stay stanced and toss some shit off your next handhold that you missed when you had just TRed it is just as bad. Damn it just makes me feel old. There's still some loose stuff and poor clips that need hammering, my arms were both cramping and barely able to hold a hammer so I polished off my water and went home and said "Fawk it", let someone else clean it.....I am such a wuss. Pulled a muscle wrestling the pack out of the car, tore one of my fingernails partially off (it hurts like hell to just type), both hands are barely able to close the finger from the arthritic thing flaring up from beating the hell out of them, every muscle is sore and I burned the inside of my upper arm with the drill bit. I think I might have actually heard a sizzling sound, it's all marked up where the blister broke and the blood dried and there's now a red infection ring around the scab....Sigh.....a wuss I say.....

 

Update: talked to Ujahn about the bolts I'd put in in Pitch 2 of The Dragons Spine earlier and how I had resisted the temptation as detailed above. He said he'd have given my permission (I knew he would) that he had literally sunk into a pit of extreme sickness and couldn't had gone out then no matter what, but that NOW he has the roof torn off his house and needs to get it back on- and thus can't go finish the pitch this weekend. He says it's my lead when we do though finally get out there.......Said it was OK to go solo the 2nd pitch of Ujahns Delight though! Woot! When I was up there with Tappetts we left our extra bolts like 200' off the deck, so I don't have to haul as many in there! Extra Woot! Ujahns delight could finish right where those bolts are if I so choose.

 

Hey Dwayner, the bolt count is over 300 now and going UP! :poke: In fact, 354 1/2 x 6-1/4 and 7" long stainless wedge anchors, and 40 Fixe SS Carabiner style anchors. (20 rap points.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...