more retro bolts, really?

[johnkelley]

Who the fuck put in three retro bolts on the old TR problems at crack in the woods crag and why? It's been an established area for several generations, WTF?

[johnkelley]

Make that five retro bolts added to TR's, according to The Scar.

[wfinley]

http://www.alaskamountainforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2994

[johnkelley]

non local guide book authors suck

[xhen]

non local guide book authors suck

 

I know prezwood pretty well and have climbed with him before. Great guy, great climber.

 

Not saying retro bolting is cool, and some of his friends even call him out in the thread.

[pink]

non local guide book authors suck

 

 

[wfinley]

non local guide book authors suck

 

Kelsey is as local as they get up here - don't voice the cliche "locals only" crap.

Furthermore best recent guidebook for AK was not written by a "local".

 

[johnkelley]

"locals only" isn't what I'm getting at really. I'm saying retro bolts that some wanker puts up on the old TR aren't cool and poorly researched and badly written guide books aren't cool. Has anything good come from this guy? Retro bolts, slackline bolts, a crappy book, book signings, a bs web forum, etc.

[johnkelley]

Now there has been a total of nine retro bolts added to the crack in the woods area. All on established climbs. WTF?

[Alex]

so chop them

[johnkelley]

Make that 13 new bolts at crack in the woods, not counting anchors. Only two are replacments for old bolts. The other 11 are retro bolts added to existing climbs. Lame.

[johnkelley]

Looks like someone put the axe to Splat Button and Hocus Pocus

[Off_White]

I thought I'd read on Supertopo that it was you who did that?

[johnkelley]

Alex said I could

[johnkelley]

And the worst part is the ASCA is giving him bolts. Apparently the "we don't add bolts to climbs" is bullshit.

[Off_White]

Looks like someone put the axe to Splat Button and Hocus Pocus

 

I'm just keeping you honest John. Truth be told, I'm unfamiliar with the area and don't know about the history, routes, or situation, so I don't really have an opinion one way or another. You sound like a committed local, and I've certainly enjoyed your TR's here, so I wish you well in working out your local situation.

 

Unless you're using a Ouija board to consult Alex Lowe, I'm uncertain who you're referring to. Presumably the TR problem's FA party?

 

As far as ASCA goes, their site states: "The ASCA returns classic climbing routes to their original danger level by replacing deteriorating old fixed anchors, usually bolts, with modern camouflaged gear. We do not add bolts to make climbs "safer." Climbing is inherently extremely dangerous." I'm sure this is their policy, and if bolts they had supplied were used to retrobolt TR problems it was not with their consent. They supply hardware to volunteers who do the work, the ASCA does not have complete control over what individuals do with the hardware they supply.

 

Were the removed hangers stamped ASCA? If so, if you have proof their hardware was misused, you should take it up with them, I'd guess they would be very interested to know. If you register a complaint in a reasonable manner and get a snarky dismissive response, that would be some evidence of failure to follow through on their policy, but I don't believe your accusation has merit at this time.

[johnkelley]

11 new retrobolts at one very small crag. No merit? WTF? BTW I have been in contact with the ASCA.

[genepires]

the "no merit" was probably in reference to the accusation that ASCA was aware and gave the OK to add bolts instead of replacing bolts.

 

If it such a travesty and you speak for the majority, why not just rip them out yourself? If you are in the minority who is upset by this, then maybe you should just yield and save the stress. Either way, you got better things to do.

 

Is this crag really that important? (I have no idea what it looks like but it sounds small) I mean it is not beacon or anything.

 

 

[johnkelley]

So he uses his "own bolts" for retorbolting and uses ASCA bolts for replacement? This is what he's claiming anyway. I can't believe you guys are supporting adding bolts to 20+ year old climbs.

[JosephH]

John, you also have to take into account the fact that life transitions can really affect a man's perspective. Events like becoming a parent, reaching 'a certain age', and seeing your name in print can all cause the development of a sudden onset penchant for bolts.

[johnkelley]

Well if toproping is to dangerous do something else. You're on to something with the name in print idea though. It's never changed my view on retrobolts but sure has changed theirs

[genepires]

I can't believe you guys are supporting adding bolts to 20+ year old climbs.

 

where is your reading comprehension? Where did anyone say adding the bolts is OK? My point was either shit or get of the pot. Go get rid of the bolts instead of whining here about it. F'in AK pansies. Maybe I should buy raindawg a plane ticket and he can fix your "problem" for you.

[johnkelley]

They got chopped a few weeks ago

[Off_White]

the "no merit" was probably in reference to the accusation that ASCA was aware and gave the OK to add bolts instead of replacing bolts.

 

Thanks Gene, that's exactly what I meant.

[johnkelley]

Fact - The ASCA is giving a known retrobolter hardware.