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Steph_Abegg

[TR] Mt. Stuart - Direct North Ridge 6/25/2016

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Trip: Mt. Stuart - Direct North Ridge

 

Date: 6/25/2016

 

Trip Report:

Jon Pobst and I climbed the Direct North Ridge of Stuart on Saturday (June 25). Took us about 6 and a half hours from base to summit. There was some snow on route storms late last week, but that should be pretty well melted by now. There were at least 8 parties on the route. Busy day on Stuart!

 

After climbing Stuart, Jon and I continued along the ridge and climbed Sherpa (via the West Ridge) and then continued on to Sherpa Pass. From the pass it was a super mellow descent down a snow slope to Mountaineers Creek. This might be a good route to consider as a north side descent once the Sherpa Glacier becomes too melted this season. It looks good right now but is melting fairly quickly.

 

I have posted a trip report for the North Ridge on my website:

http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/stuart#2016

 

Some random photos:

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864234.jpg

 

Edited by Steph_Abegg

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Awesome, thank you Steph. Your pictures and route overlays are the best. Really, like I haven't seen someone who lays it out as well, at least for my brain.

 

thank you.

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Per usual, a fantastic report and mixed-media presentation. Many thanks!

 

P.S. It's about time someone published the next defining PNW climbing guide... just a thought:)

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I agree, awesome overlays! Even for routes that already have ample beta, you really make things much clearer!

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So is Sherpa worth doing as a stand alone? Seemed like a long slog for a short climb. I like your linkup.

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So is Sherpa worth doing as a stand alone? Seemed like a long slog for a short climb. I like your linkup.

I'd say if you are passing by and want to tag the summit, the WR of Sherpa is a great little climb. But if your only aim is to climb Sherpa, the longer NR is probably the better choice. Done as a link-up, the WR is a nice addition to a climb of the NR of Stuart.

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Great report, thanks for all the info!

 

We climbed Sherpas west ridge on Saturday and didn't see a soul all day. It had been weeks since another party had signed the register. We must have barely missed eachother! We headed down the south side from the w ridge notch around 2:30.

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So is Sherpa worth doing as a stand alone? Seemed like a long slog for a short climb. I like your linkup.

Yes on both points. The rock is good, the climbing is interesting for its grade, the views are good, and it is a long slog.

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Great report, thanks for all the info!

 

We climbed Sherpas west ridge on Saturday and didn't see a soul all day. It had been weeks since another party had signed the register. We must have barely missed eachother! We headed down the south side from the w ridge notch around 2:30.

 

We saw your footprints and summit register entry - yes indeed, must have just missed you!

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Great TR and nice photos. Your description of the routes including overlays is nice. Despite being a 50 crowded climb, some folks get a little confused on the direct start N. Ridge and above the gendarme. Tagging Sherpa and your descent is a nice add on. As you know, there is no easy button for a round trip on Stuart from either side.

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P.S. It's about time someone published the next defining PNW climbing guide... just a thought:)

 

Here's a new 2016 guidebook: LINK

 

Screen%2BShot%2B2015-12-01%2Bat%2B6.43.13%2BPM.png

Edited by Blake

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P.S. It's about time someone published the next defining PNW climbing guide... just a thought:)

 

Here's a new 2016 guidebook: LINK

 

Screen%2BShot%2B2015-12-01%2Bat%2B6.43.13%2BPM.png

 

Yes and it is an AWESOME guidebook! If you are looking for a great selection of rock climbs in the Cascades, you'll want to get ahold of a copy.....

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Thanks for this great TR! My partner and I camped up Mountaineers creek on a bench above the moraine below Sherpa pass Saturday eve before climbing Sherpa's North Ridge on Sunday. I swore I heard voices below us but figured I was crazy. Seems likely it was you on your descent!? Saw your summit entry.

Edited by pugetgold

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I moved the TR from the North Cascades to the Alpine Lakes section. I hope this makes sense for everyone, its just how we chose to organize the TR section!

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Did you get a look at how the descent from Goat pass to the base of the ridge looked? Mostly melted or still a fair bit of snow?

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