Steph_Abegg Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 (edited) Trip: Mt. Stuart - Direct North Ridge Date: 6/25/2016 Trip Report: Jon Pobst and I climbed the Direct North Ridge of Stuart on Saturday (June 25). Took us about 6 and a half hours from base to summit. There was some snow on route storms late last week, but that should be pretty well melted by now. There were at least 8 parties on the route. Busy day on Stuart! After climbing Stuart, Jon and I continued along the ridge and climbed Sherpa (via the West Ridge) and then continued on to Sherpa Pass. From the pass it was a super mellow descent down a snow slope to Mountaineers Creek. This might be a good route to consider as a north side descent once the Sherpa Glacier becomes too melted this season. It looks good right now but is melting fairly quickly. I have posted a trip report for the North Ridge on my website: http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/stuart#2016 Some random photos: Edited June 28, 2016 by Steph_Abegg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Awesome, thank you Steph. Your pictures and route overlays are the best. Really, like I haven't seen someone who lays it out as well, at least for my brain. thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew.e Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Per usual, a fantastic report and mixed-media presentation. Many thanks! P.S. It's about time someone published the next defining PNW climbing guide... just a thought:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilias Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 I agree, awesome overlays! Even for routes that already have ample beta, you really make things much clearer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 So is Sherpa worth doing as a stand alone? Seemed like a long slog for a short climb. I like your linkup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph_Abegg Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 So is Sherpa worth doing as a stand alone? Seemed like a long slog for a short climb. I like your linkup. I'd say if you are passing by and want to tag the summit, the WR of Sherpa is a great little climb. But if your only aim is to climb Sherpa, the longer NR is probably the better choice. Done as a link-up, the WR is a nice addition to a climb of the NR of Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n9643750 Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Great report, thanks for all the info! We climbed Sherpas west ridge on Saturday and didn't see a soul all day. It had been weeks since another party had signed the register. We must have barely missed eachother! We headed down the south side from the w ridge notch around 2:30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 So is Sherpa worth doing as a stand alone? Seemed like a long slog for a short climb. I like your linkup. Yes on both points. The rock is good, the climbing is interesting for its grade, the views are good, and it is a long slog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph_Abegg Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 Great report, thanks for all the info! We climbed Sherpas west ridge on Saturday and didn't see a soul all day. It had been weeks since another party had signed the register. We must have barely missed eachother! We headed down the south side from the w ridge notch around 2:30. We saw your footprints and summit register entry - yes indeed, must have just missed you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Great TR and nice photos. Your description of the routes including overlays is nice. Despite being a 50 crowded climb, some folks get a little confused on the direct start N. Ridge and above the gendarme. Tagging Sherpa and your descent is a nice add on. As you know, there is no easy button for a round trip on Stuart from either side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 (edited) P.S. It's about time someone published the next defining PNW climbing guide... just a thought:) Here's a new 2016 guidebook: LINK Edited June 28, 2016 by Blake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph_Abegg Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 P.S. It's about time someone published the next defining PNW climbing guide... just a thought:) Here's a new 2016 guidebook: LINK Yes and it is an AWESOME guidebook! If you are looking for a great selection of rock climbs in the Cascades, you'll want to get ahold of a copy..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugetgold Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 (edited) Thanks for this great TR! My partner and I camped up Mountaineers creek on a bench above the moraine below Sherpa pass Saturday eve before climbing Sherpa's North Ridge on Sunday. I swore I heard voices below us but figured I was crazy. Seems likely it was you on your descent!? Saw your summit entry. Edited June 28, 2016 by pugetgold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I moved the TR from the North Cascades to the Alpine Lakes section. I hope this makes sense for everyone, its just how we chose to organize the TR section! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTM Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Did you get a look at how the descent from Goat pass to the base of the ridge looked? Mostly melted or still a fair bit of snow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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