Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Rad

Goode or other N Cascades conditions?

Recommended Posts

Got a rare family/work window for a 60 hour outing into the mountains next weekend. I've been keen to go grab Goode but worry that it might be icy. Consistent snow above 5k, depending on aspect, according to NPS.

 

We're happy to boot/crampon up some firm snow but prefer to avoid two tool mixed/ice terrain given partner experience (and mine).

 

How do you think Goode will be?

 

Would love to hear other cool ideas.

Ridge traverse on Silver Star?

TFT?

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We had deep snow but it wasn't icy I think ski pole and aluminum crampons is all you need there's never anything to Steep except for the base of the route. It will be warm you should go for it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Wayne, if you get the wedder, Goode should be good(e) to go. Early season is key with that one, at least if you want smooth sailing to get on the route without steel.

 

The NE buttress is so cool, if that is where you are headed. There is a perfect bivy on the actual summit, which I would highly recommend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great. Thx.

Our plan is to bang out some miles on the PCT in the evening, cross creeks early am and climb the NE Butt, bivy on the summit, and descend and return to the car on the following day.

Def psyched.

 

Do we need 60m for the raps off the summit? Debating whether to bring twin 60m 8.7s or a single 70 that we'll fold in half and use like a twin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't believe so, but my memory is hazy. I remember the terrain is broken enough that you wouldn't want to make a double rappel. And, being that the descent thru black tooth notch is the route of ascent for those doing the 100 highest, I imagine the anchors are in good shape, and numerous. Goode gets a fair amount of traffic, for good reason.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI, the obvious couloir SW of the summit is fixed for 30 meter rappels now, not that I would recommend it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Crossing the North Fork of Bridge Creek is going to be spicy this early in the season, especially with the precip forecast for later this week.

 

For the rope, if you're carrying over and descending to Park Creek, you can get away with a single 60m for raps, that's the way we went. There were just two 25m raps in the SW Coulior. If you're descending via Storm King col, I'm not sure, it sounds like a PITA to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good point on the stream crossing. Long ago, about this time of year, we crossed on a giant snow bridge (avi debris), but I bet that is gone by now with the hot spring.

 

Descending via Goode-Storm King col isn't too bad (only one extra rap in addition to raps to and down from black tooth notch), but makes for a long summit day. People do this if they aren't carrying over.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the great beta and heads up on creek xing. Hopefully we'll find a log or snow bridge. If not, we may actually use the rope in the crossing. Also, we'll be crossing in the early morning, which is typically the lowest water time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

NCNP trail conditions report is not encouraging - Park Creek trail closed due to fire damage, many trees down on the PCT near Rainy Pass, and impassable high water on several creek crossings. Between these and our narrow time window we'll probably save this one for later in the year.

 

Just wanted to say I appreciate all your helpful comments. Thx.

 

Rad

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like you made your decision based on valley conditions, but here's a pic from the summit of Black Peak, June 12, anyways:

 

DSC00688_-_Version_2.jpg

 

BTW, I highly recommend the Goode summit bivy if conditions are favorable and it fits your itinerary!

Edited by Raoul Duke

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FWIW I think Goode (or Storm King or Black?) is on the far right in this picture taken yesterday 6/20:

IMG_07743.JPG

 

Last Friday/Saturday dropped a fair amount of snow at high elevation that was still hanging around on ledges as of yesterday making low angle fourth/fifth class climbing a little spicy. Not sure I'd want to do a couple thousand feet of it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, did anyone get on Goode last weekend?

 

I'm having trouble uploading photos (as usual), so here's a link to one I took from the summit of Liberty Bell on Sunday. Hoping to get on the Megalodon, but not sure if I should try in two weeks or two(ish) months....

 

I have photos of other angles, but I'm not sure how useful they'd be. I can post if there's any interest.

Edited by Todd Anderson

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the river x-ings are going to be raging right now. Should die down in a few weeks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was thinking of getting on it this weekend (July 4th)... think the creek crossings will be impassable?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×