Goode or other N Cascades conditions?

[Rad]

Got a rare family/work window for a 60 hour outing into the mountains next weekend. I've been keen to go grab Goode but worry that it might be icy. Consistent snow above 5k, depending on aspect, according to NPS.

 

We're happy to boot/crampon up some firm snow but prefer to avoid two tool mixed/ice terrain given partner experience (and mine).

 

How do you think Goode will be?

 

Would love to hear other cool ideas.

Ridge traverse on Silver Star?

TFT?

 

 

 

[wayne]

We had deep snow but it wasn't icy I think ski pole and aluminum crampons is all you need there's never anything to Steep except for the base of the route. It will be warm you should go for it

[JasonG]

I agree with Wayne, if you get the wedder, Goode should be good(e) to go. Early season is key with that one, at least if you want smooth sailing to get on the route without steel.

 

The NE buttress is so cool, if that is where you are headed. There is a perfect bivy on the actual summit, which I would highly recommend.

[Rad]

Great. Thx.

Our plan is to bang out some miles on the PCT in the evening, cross creeks early am and climb the NE Butt, bivy on the summit, and descend and return to the car on the following day.

Def psyched.

 

Do we need 60m for the raps off the summit? Debating whether to bring twin 60m 8.7s or a single 70 that we'll fold in half and use like a twin.

[JasonG]

I don't believe so, but my memory is hazy. I remember the terrain is broken enough that you wouldn't want to make a double rappel. And, being that the descent thru black tooth notch is the route of ascent for those doing the 100 highest, I imagine the anchors are in good shape, and numerous. Goode gets a fair amount of traffic, for good reason.

[DPS]

FYI, the obvious couloir SW of the summit is fixed for 30 meter rappels now, not that I would recommend it.

[JasonG]

Ha! AKA the Bedayn? That thing looks nasty, at least from below.

[Bronco]

Crossing the North Fork of Bridge Creek is going to be spicy this early in the season, especially with the precip forecast for later this week.

 

For the rope, if you're carrying over and descending to Park Creek, you can get away with a single 60m for raps, that's the way we went. There were just two 25m raps in the SW Coulior. If you're descending via Storm King col, I'm not sure, it sounds like a PITA to me.

[JasonG]

Good point on the stream crossing. Long ago, about this time of year, we crossed on a giant snow bridge (avi debris), but I bet that is gone by now with the hot spring.

 

Descending via Goode-Storm King col isn't too bad (only one extra rap in addition to raps to and down from black tooth notch), but makes for a long summit day. People do this if they aren't carrying over.

[Rad]

Thanks for the great beta and heads up on creek xing. Hopefully we'll find a log or snow bridge. If not, we may actually use the rope in the crossing. Also, we'll be crossing in the early morning, which is typically the lowest water time.

[Rad]

NCNP trail conditions report is not encouraging - Park Creek trail closed due to fire damage, many trees down on the PCT near Rainy Pass, and impassable high water on several creek crossings. Between these and our narrow time window we'll probably save this one for later in the year.

 

Just wanted to say I appreciate all your helpful comments. Thx.

 

Rad

[Raoul Duke]

Sounds like you made your decision based on valley conditions, but here's a pic from the summit of Black Peak, June 12, anyways:

 

 

BTW, I highly recommend the Goode summit bivy if conditions are favorable and it fits your itinerary!

Edited June 22, 2016 by Raoul Duke

[bellows]

FWIW I think Goode (or Storm King or Black?) is on the far right in this picture taken yesterday 6/20:

 

Last Friday/Saturday dropped a fair amount of snow at high elevation that was still hanging around on ledges as of yesterday making low angle fourth/fifth class climbing a little spicy. Not sure I'd want to do a couple thousand feet of it.

[Todd Anderson]

So, did anyone get on Goode last weekend?

 

I'm having trouble uploading photos (as usual), so here's a link to one I took from the summit of Liberty Bell on Sunday. Hoping to get on the Megalodon, but not sure if I should try in two weeks or two(ish) months....

 

I have photos of other angles, but I'm not sure how useful they'd be. I can post if there's any interest.

Edited June 28, 2016 by Todd Anderson

[Rad]

I think the river x-ings are going to be raging right now. Should die down in a few weeks.

[ilias]

Was thinking of getting on it this weekend (July 4th)... think the creek crossings will be impassable?