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wrecker

Mt Olympus

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Hey if anyone has some useful info, comments or tales about winter climbs on Mt Olympus they are heartily welcomed. This includes recent forays up there.

 

Danke!

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hey wrecker, fairweather posted this last winter in response to a similar question:

 

"Olympus has rarely been climbed in winter. The route above Elk Lake crosses several VERY steep avalanche chutes that would require belayed climbing. As of 1989 it was uncertain if Olympus had EVER been climbed in winter.(with the exception of the helicopter supported researchers at the IGY station) I'm sure it is possible, but the level of hardship required goes beyond what the "average" climber is interested in.

 

I'd love to hear if anyone here has done it or has any info about successful winter ascents. I have often wondered if a route up Tom Creek would be the way to do Olympus in winter."

 

Last March I hiked up the Hoh, there was tons of snow and travel was impossible beyond the Olympus Guard Station (9 miles in). A climb of Olympus would have been next to impossible last winter, this winter who knows?

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wrecker, are you considering doing olympus this winter? It sounds like a challange for sure, but certainly an awesome adventure. rockband.gif

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In Wrecker's picture, the summit of Olympus is the rock point on the extreme top right of the photograph. The glacier in the foreground is the Blue Glacier.

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Actually, the west peak or true summit is not visible in the posted photo, but is off to the west (right). It's in a line with the cleaver which is furthest to the right in the photo. I have a photo showing it, but I don't have a web account, and I remain too clueless to figure out how to post photos in this medium.

 

You could probably avoid avalanche paths on the way to Olympus if you went in via the Elwha, to Dodwell-Rixon pass, then west to the Humes Glacier, across Blizzard Pass, traverse the Hoh Glacier, then to Glacier Pass, which is the saddle visible in the left center of the posted photo. Of course, just to Dodwell-Rixon Pass is something like 36 miles from the road. Not exactly a time saver.

Edited by Norman_Clyde

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I'll let u know that Dru and I were wrecker. But it was banned for being so crude smirk.gif when Dru remarked against himself for the slesse route thread. cantfocus.gif

 

Yes I am considering it but was just asked about it a week ago. My bud has been asking me about it. I believe he has done it.

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Norman to attach a photo-

choose the preview a post.

On the next screen you will see an option to upload a file (size restrictions)

Hit browse and find it on your computer.

Upload it and there we have it.

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Cavey, I read it and see no reason that 'wrecker' should've been shitcanned. Someone's got it in for ya, outlaw.

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so to reduce it with windows-

 

find the file on the computer and then select to open it with paint. Right click on it and select edit with paint.

 

Then select image and sketch\skew.

 

Change the percentage to a number.

 

Save it.

 

 

Otherwise fuck it and go drink more beers bigdrink.gif

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Here is a picture I took in 1983. You can bearly see the West Peak on the far upper right. The larger peak just left of that, is Five Finger Ridge. The lower glacier is a cruise in September.

129537-Web006.JPG.75f8e14b8e9ec1ff8ddbbdb564ec624c.JPG

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Fairweather...awesome pictures.

 

Cavey, you planning on doing the olympus trek this winter?

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Cavey, you planning on doing the olympus trek this winter?

 

I'd consider it. Nice photos!

Edited by Cpt.Caveman

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Hi wrecker,

My friend Ted and I climbed most of Olympus in February 1995. We went up the Hoh trail, and hit snow about OGS. We camped a couple of miles further up. The next day we went to glacier meadows and camped there. The trail above elk lake has some exposed avalance chutes, and the trail was filled in at a steep angle by heavy snow. We were a little intimidated, and roped up and used crampons and ice axes for some parts of the trail just before glacier meadows. It would be a long ride down into the deep drainage below. There did not seem to be a high chance of avalanche being triggered by us, so that was ok. We went up during one of those 2 week high pressure arctic fronts. It was quite cold at glacier meadows, about 4200 ft. We did not need skis at that time because the snow was so consolidated. We camped two nights at the glacier meadows to scout the route. The next day we went up the moraine, and dropped down it and crossed the blue glacier. The crossing was easy, no crevasses showing, and no rocks on the climb to snow dome. We ascended to the top of snow dome and ate lunch on the top of the hut over by panic point. Should have gone on to west peak since it was not that far away, but the days are short, and we had done enough. I feel sure that it has been climbed in winter, but know of no one who has done it. It just is a long climb, 18 miles into glacier meadows, and a bit of time on the mountain. We had a great time though, and you should give it a try if the snow conditions look good. Try a climb during a high pressure window. On the way down, when we hit the bad part of the trail, where the snow concealed it in the avalance slopes, we just walked across without ropes, I guess we were more complacent and it didnt seem so bad.

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Not a winter photo but what the hell. HERE is your bloody summit (the true summit is the point directly above the climbers' heads). Picture taken from Snow Dome to the northeast on July 4, 1999.

5a1a558c8f92b_137227-OlyfromSnowDomesmall.jpg.e368491b338db702fb3379dead3cac10.jpg

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If there was any year to do Olympus in the winter it would be this one!!! I might even like to give it a go! I say GO FOR IT! pitty.gif

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Well winter is pretty much over... did anyone go for it?? Or is anyone planning on heading up to Olympus this spring, assuming spring doesn't totally suck for weather like it usually does?

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