Tormernt-Forbidden early May conditions

[dmdebruin]

My schedule is such that I've got the first week of May available for some climbing, but unfortunately little scheduling flexibility. I would be stoked to do the Torment-Forbidden Traverse, but I imagine that the first week of May will be pretty early season for that objective.

 

I'd love some thoughts on feasibility.

 

Will road closures affect trailhead access?

Will the snow be deep enough that skis are a good idea?

Will I need to carry my skis across the traverse?

What's the snowpack usually doing around that time?

Should I be concerned about avalanches?

Any other concerns/hazards of which I should be aware?

 

I understand that much of this may be quite speculative at this point. Thanks in advance.

 

Edited to include a title that makes sense

Edited January 29, 2016 by dmdebruin

[JasonG]

Yes

Yes

No

Deep

Yes ("Slurpee Death")

Massive Cornices

[DPS]

One of the most important things I learned about climbing in the Cascades is to not have an objective in mind and then force it to fit the time frame you have. Look at your time frame and find out what is good to climb at that time. May is volcano season, so look at Rainier, Baker, Adams, etc.

[CascadeClimber]

One of the most important things I learned about climbing in the Cascades is to not have an objective in mind and then force it to fit the time frame you have. Look at your time frame and find out what is good to climb at that time. May is volcano season, so look at Rainier, Baker, Adams, etc.

 

+1

 

Also factor in weather. Block out time for a trip, have a primary objective, but also have alternates. If your primary is in the central or north Cascades, smart alternates are east of the crest and south. Go where the weather doesn't suck and you will have more fun.

[JasonG]

Listen to Dan and Loren.

 

And you might want to look into routes in the Enchantments.

[dmdebruin]

This basically confirms what I already suspected--early May will be sub-prime conditions in Boston Basin. I've done a fair bit of climbing in the Enchantments already, so I'll probably set my sights on skiing Baker and Shuksan, then. Or maybe Mount Adams or Glacier Peak? Thoughts?

 

@CascadeClimber:

As the Cascades is a pretty big place, I'm open to suggestions for things that are east or south of the crest (I'm totally sure what that means). Thanks!

[alpine et]

skiing volcanoes in May is usually quite primo. If you want to add some spice, N. Ridge Baker with a Coleman ski could be fun. Or perhaps N. Face Shuksan (haven't been on that one yet so can't totally speak for it, but I think May would generally be a good time for it...)

[dmdebruin]

That's actually precisely what I was thinking: N. Ridge Baker down Coleman-Deming and N. Face Shuksan down Sulphide.

 

I know next to nothing about Adams or Glacier Peak (and I've already been to Rainier). Any good skiing objectives similar to the ones I've outlined on Baker and Shuksan?

[alpine et]

Adams - north face north west ridge. It gets skiied, but I was scared enough just climbing it. May might be early to ski it? Want it to be nice and corny. And if avy is still at all a concern, you don't want to be there climbing it either. I did it as a carryover. If you do that, then ski the chutes... pretty fun. Fairly long car shuttle though.

 

Glacier is cool because you get to walk so far to get to it. so RAD!

[dmdebruin]

Hmm...I'm detecting some sarcasm about Glacier Peak, though your point is well made.

[CascadeClimber]

Spring of 2014 I was sitting at the car drinking beer after skiing the Easton. Two guys come down the road carrying skis.

 

"Hey, uh, so, uh, can you tell us where we are?"

"Sure, you're at the trailhead for the Easton and Squak glacier routes."

"Ah. Yes. Uh, so, uh, that's not the same as the Coleman-Deming, then?"

"Yeah, no."

"Hmm. Uh, so is it far? We climbed the North Ridge and our car is over there. We meant to ski the Coleman-Deming."

"Yeah, just yeah."

"How far?"

"The fastest way to get there, since you are apparently without a vehicle, would be to go back up and over the saddle at the base of the Roman Wall at 9000'."

"That's far."

"Yes."

 

I gave them a ride to I-5. They were making calls the whole time trying to convince someone to drive up to get them, then drive them around to their car

[JasonG]

That's funny, and not as hard to do as you'd think, at least if the weather is bad.

 

I remember dropping out of the clouds one time and saying to my partner, "I didn't remember Heliotrope ridge having a big lateral moraine like the Railroad Grade!" We made a hard right turn and were able to traverse over to the saddle without too much extra effort. It was humbling, to say the least.

[curtveld]

Another good area is around Washington Pass on the North Cascades Highway. Generally good skiing and alpine climbing to be had that season and similar rain-shadow weather to the Enchantments. Silver Star Glacier is a classic. Though not as steep as other routes you've mentioned, you could find spicier terrain with minimal effort.

 

Highway 20 is 'usually' open from the west by then. History of road opening is here to gage your odds: http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/Traffic/Passes/NorthCascades/closurehistory.htm

Even if it's not, you can get there from the east with a few more hours of driving.

 

BTW, the volcanoes tend to be 'magnets' for clouds and precip if conditions are marginal, so good to have other options

[genepires]

've done a fair bit of climbing in the enchantments!

 

If you have mainly done mid to late summer routes in the enchantments, then maybe early may would give you a whole new feel to a familiar area. There are many routes that are best in may that may be new to you. With the added benefit of better than west side weather. Also would not need a camping permit and road should be clear to TH.

 

[dmdebruin]

Thanks all for the recommendations! I'll hope for good weather, but having some rain shadow options isn't a bad plan. All the climbing I've done in the Enchantments has actually been late spring, but I haven't done the Triple Couloirs on Dragontail yet, so maybe we can use that as a back-up plan. Any recommendations on other good options near Washington Pass in addition to Silver Star?

[genepires]

how good of a rock climber are ya?

 

if you are mainly looking for snow routes, there is a steep gulley on whistler pk that faces liberty bell group. not sure of the route name but it is easy to find in the becky guide.

-30 to 35 degree gulley at steepest to rocky 4th class ridge to nice standard scramble on maybe north face to summit with the usual choss-ness that is common to less traveled routes. All this within easy strike distance from road.

 

If BC ski is your big thing, the birthday route tour is good as I have heard. it goes along the spires at one point before dropping over a saddle to more dramatic terrain. day trip.

 

Early may be be kinda cold for pure rock lines at the Pass. maybe not if it is sunny. plenty of easier routes that would be good in cold-ish temps.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 1, 2016 by genepires

[JasonG]

That gully route on Whistler is indeed good, but it is sometimes melted out by early May. The Early Winters Couloir is another option (but may be melted out by early May). All depends on the spring.

 

Some good spring skis/scrambles (with the right conditions) up by WA pass include: Mt. Hardy, Graybeard, Frisco.

 

I agree that it will be a bit cold/wet for the pure rock routes at the pass (most years).

[KaskadskyjKozak]

've done a fair bit of climbing in the enchantments!

 

If you have mainly done mid to late summer routes in the enchantments, then maybe early may would give you a whole new feel to a familiar area. There are many routes that are best in may that may be new to you. With the added benefit of better than west side weather. Also would not need a camping permit and road should be clear to TH.

 

Beware that they are extending the permit season (and starting a month earlier). :-(

 

"The limited entry FEE permit requirement has been expanded in 2016. Limited entry FEE permits are now required May 15 to October 31 for overnight trips. Since demand for overnight permits exceeds supply, a lottery is held annually. For more information, visit the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest webpage. "

Edited February 2, 2016 by KaskadskyjKozak

[calamityinsanity]

Did adams glacier last year carrying skis and then skied the north ridge. We went early, like april, but it was a warm/low snow year so may should be great.

It provided solid ice/alpine climbing through broken glacier that required two tools and really neat climbing. The top half of the north ridge just about killed me after hitting the ice, but after a rap into the diamond the skiing was great custard into corn all the way to the car with stops for stashed beer and to pick up the tent.

Was some of the finest climbing and spring skiing I have had in the pnw.

I second the triple couloirs suggestion as well. Ive only climbed it when it was fat, but it was 10/10 for quality. not to hard, but so good.