OhioIcer Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 So, I've been hoping to tick this one off since I moved out here. Looks like conditions avalanche wise are going to be moderate on Monday trending down, however with all the snow the pass got during the last storm I suspect this will be a wallow fest. Is it wise to attempt this climb on Monday or should I sallow that big nasty patience pill? I just really want to swing my tools.... Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Not only are approach conditions important but the route conditions also. I think with the low/no ice on NY gully on Snoqualmie that the N face of Chair is also going to be out of condition. Typically it is just slab rock underneath, there are no real features to dry tool like NYG. If you don't have consolidated snow or ice to climb it is a real sketch fest. What we need is a nice melt freeze cycle and the thaw level has to get pretty high like 8K or something. Without that I doubt the route will be in. There is an option though and that's the NE buttress which gets sun unlike the N face, so it can get some melt freeze and form up that way. But I doubt even that route will be fat and it may not even be continuous. That valley is hella dangerous avalanche territory, I would be cautious even at the moderate level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) I have to agree with Buckaroo, the approach to Chair Peak is very avalanche prone so it is wise to let things settle down. I am not convinced, however, that the conditions on NY Gully are a good predictor of Chair Peak conditions. But definitely allow enough time for the snow conditions consolidate. Like Buckaroo said, if the NF is not in shape, the NE Buttress is an option and is climbable in a variety of conditions. It is actually very well featured and enjoyable as a mixed climb. Edited January 25, 2016 by DPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Watch out for the moat, too. Yikes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhioIcer Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 Thanks folks! I opted to stay at home. All my buddies back where I came from are swinging tools left and right and its making me want to get out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dre Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 we were out on on Alpental yesterday, looking and climbing easy ice off to the left on the winter trail... hear about 4 or more large avalanches come down the snow lake area... scary stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhioIcer Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 That is pretty gnarly. Anything worth checking out tomorrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidviscous Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 I was out on Kiddie Cliff on Saturday. We climbed Kiddie Cliff central and right. A lot of the ice was pretty styrofoamy but there was a little bit of 'solid' ice to swing at too. It's not great, but it's there and the approach ain't bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 The North Face of Chair is mostly dependent on snow and freeze/thaw to come into condition. I'd bet it's plenty climbable now. It's not often a pure ice climb though- steep neve' is more the norm. +1 to the previous comments about avy danger: The Source Lake basin is dangerous, then you have to traverse from the NEB across the north face of Chair to get the route start on an avy-prone slope, and the descent route is also avy-prone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Mexico Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 It was looking plenty fat a couple weeks ago. Same with the NEB. I bet it will be fine after the pineapple too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Friends don't let friends climb the North Face of Chair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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