Mt Thompson Suitable for Beginning Leader

[stevenkalinowsk]

Hi All,

My wife is a fairly experienced climber, but has always left the leading to me. Now she is starting to lead. We are looking for an alpine climb to do on Saturday where she can do some/most/all of the leading. We were thinking of trying the Mount Thompson climb described in Select Climbs II. I was wondering if the protection was decent, and if route finding was straight-forward.

Thanks.

-Steven

[DPS]

I found the route to be dirty and indistinct, loose in places with uninspiring pro. Seemed like an awful long hike in to do a dirty version of the Tooth. I would suggest the Tooth, South Face or Ingal's Peak, South Face. Route finding is straight forward with plenty of opportunities for protection. Both are described in Selected Climbs, Vol I.

[Kyle_Flick]

I took my son up there earlier this year, and we had a wonderful time. He could have led several of the pitches. The first and third pitches you probably should lead because the former has a short exposed traverse and the latter is runout (but easy). Otherwise everything is quite reasonable. Enjoy.

[chucK]

I did Thompson about a month ago, via the Direct W Ridge. It is easy, but the pro is pretty sparse for a beginner leader. If you are getting worried and needing to place a piece every 10 feet or less then you might take a REAL long time to do the climb. That might be a concern if you are doing it from the car as it's a pretty long trudge. There was a party or two that got there just after we did (Thank God!) and they were VERY slow. I'd bet it was because of the beginners*no pro factor.

The Tooth would be an awesome climb to let your beginner partner lead if it weren't so goldeen crowded. You might try that. You probably wouldn't have to worry about being held up by anyone.

A good possibility if you have mountain bikes (or the key to the Monte Cristo gate) would be the N Ridge of Foggy Peak (Green Beckey guide). Two-three pitches of nice granite on the ridge. It might require crampons to get to it this time of year. The SW-face route is OK too. It is shorter and would not require crampons now. It has only one short but good rock pitch up on the ridge, but throws in a couple of nice, though exposed, 4th class pitches. I'm not sure if there's good pro on the 4th class stuff.

Chuck

[EddieE]

South Early Winter Spires is also a good one. Wherever you go it might be worth your time to check the Mountaineer's schedule and plan accordingly. Happy climbing.

[kyagpa!]

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[Lambone]

Is that Tibetan for what?

I'd second the Southface of Ingalls. Fun, nice veiw, good rock, good pro, good anchors,...hence lots of people!

Castle Rock has lots of good first Trad leads on it as well. Just my opinion, but its probably better to introduce someone to leading at a crag rather than in the mountains, for obvious reasons.

 

[Rodchester]

South Arete on EWS. Easy and fun route. learn to simul-climb too.

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Rodchester:

South Arete on EWS. Easy and fun route. learn to simul-climb too.

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This route has 2 5th class sections that I recall. Very short Very easily done in boots. Just be ready for the crowds.

[mattp]

SK -

I would agree with those who suggest Mount Thompson might not be a good choice. I have not been there, but by all reports the rock is medium poor to atrocious, and the posts here indicate protection may be difficult as well. To this, I will add that Thompson seems to be a frequent place for seriouis accidents, related to climber-initiated rockfall and to long falls. Even though it is probably quite scenic, I would not think it a good place to concentrate on learning to place gear.

Take her to a crag where she can try something that has a known difficulty on rock that is easily protectable. The Great Northern Route at Index, Saber on Castle Rock, the regular route (whatever it is called) on Icicle Buttress, or perhaps an easy crack at Tieton. If you want to do something more mountain oriented, I second the recommendation of the S. Face of Ingalls.