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Posted

Jeez, man, it's 2003. In case you hadn't noticed, some cats by the name of Chouinard and Robbins came up with these passive chock thingies that can be used instead of pitons, so you don't beat the shit out of the rock. "Hammerless protection," they call it. It's only been around for the past 30 years or so, though, so it's understandable that you may have missed hearing about it. Yes, friend, you need to step into the present and learn all about Chock craft, and leave those damaging old pitons in the garage.

 

It's moron's like this above that don't know there's still some use for pins.

 

I'd say to get around -

 

3 knifeblades

2 angles

2 lost arrows

(whatever a bugaboo is I'm sure it's a variation on one of the above cuz I've never seemed to knowingly use it\need it)

Posted

A bugaboo is just a long knifeblade, ray (or anyone else wondering but scared to ask). I think they were called that cause when Yosemite climbers went to the Bugs for the first time they realized the cracks tended to be deeper (alpine freeze thaw & all) so they could get a longer blade into a knifeblade crack than they could in the Valley? Anyone know the truth of this?

 

Bugabbos also make good eating utensils and hotknives, aside from climbing pro.

Posted

I bought one #3 bugaboo and it doesn't come to a knife edge. The tip is about 1/8 of an inch or so. I don't know about the other sizes. I think that all knife blades are sharp and made to create their own crack from a seam, is this not so?

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