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Ryan Hoover

[TR] Mt Hood - Yocum Ridge 3/7/2015

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Trip: Mt Hood - Yocum Ridge


Date: 3/7/2015


Trip Report:

"Some times you just got to get drunk and walk up a hill", Michal Rynkiewicz says as we are leaving the Timberline Lodge Friday around 8 pm.


We woke around 5 am the next morning at Illumination Saddle as groups were gearing up for the Leuthold. A quick glimpse of Yocum assured us that it was in lean condition.


We crossed the Reid Glacier and made our way to the base of the 1st Gendarme.








We roped up and tackled the Gendarme head on. It was in great shape due to the N facing aspect, it climbed and protected well.






Once at the top of the 1st Gendarme, we spoke of rappelling, but having trouble finding any suitable anchors, Mike lead out the downward traverse. This ended up being the crux of the route. As soon as he stepped out of vision, all I could hear was the sound of constant rock fall coming off the ridge. This was Mike digging for marginal piton placements.








Conditions eased up a bit and we simul'd from the top of the 1st Gendarme to the top of the 3rd.




The 3rd Gendarme lead to a similar down climb of the ridge. This block lead to the base of the Wickwire Variation of the Upper Buttress.






Mike took over and charged up the narrow ice gully,he stopped at the junction where the Wickwire merges with the Becky. We ended up making a 50 meter rappel due to sun soaked rime ice that wouldn't support body weight. It was turning into shooting gallery as the temps warmed up.




From here we skirted the base to join the Queens Chair following moderate slopes to the summit ridge.



A quick couple summit shots and we made our way back down Illumination Saddle.











Me looking as awkward as I felt on ski's...


Gear Notes:

6 or so pitons, 4 pickets, 6 screws, ski's.

Edited by Ryan Hoover

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nice work boys! looks like conditions were prime.


I'd lean more on the "thin" conditions side, but we still enjoyed ourselves! I'd like to do a repeat when it's in more winter condition. Look up the cover of Wickwire's Addicted to Danger as it shows a pic of the 1st Gendarme.

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Insane; nice work!


I was the guy who bivied at the saddle near you and skied down yesterday morning. That was challenging skiing; I looked like that too I'm sure!


Thanks for spreading stoke.

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Awesome job! We were on the Reid, I wish we would have spotted you up there at some point and snagged a pic.

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Logged on to check this out..... Sounds like conditions were not optimal, which makes me less jealous - but lends bigger props to you boys for getting it done anyway.


Strong work.

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Seems like this route really calls for a 3, 4 hour pre-dawn start for best conditions. The ridge is so sharp and full-south facing, as soon as the sun hits it, it's taking sun-ray punches to the kisser. Or an overcast day.. but that slims up your margin.

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