Jump to content

Ryan Hoover

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Ryan Hoover

  1. Trip: Mt Index - Direct East Face to Index Traverse Date: 7/7/2017 Trip Report: Michal Rynkiewicz hit me up Friday with the hopes of going for the North Face of Mt Index into the Index Traverse Saturday. A route I have always looked up at, but brushed off over the years. I felt slightly anxious to get on a big loose alpine line since the last two years have been basically void of the mountains, but I'm a sucker for a challenge. The Route starts somewhere near the orange rock at the top of the snow field. Once I find a good high res shot of the East Face and some time, I will post a topo. I woke up way to early Saturday morning to try and scrape together my alpine kit before Mike showed up at my place around 5. We ended up leaving later then we hoped for and arrived at the Lake Serene trailhead around 7. I took some photos of the Becky Bible (somehow missing the descent page) and we took off. Somewhere from the car to Lake Serene we decided to go for the East Face, an old Becky route that has seen seldom ascents at best. We cruised up to the lake and were well on our way to start the route, where we saw a decent trickle we were hoping to fill up at. Unfortunately it was protected by a 40 ft moat. OK with me, Mike headed down to the lake and filled up 5 liters for the route. We crossed the little snow that was left and started scrambling on some orange choss. The original East Face is supposed to start with the North Face and follow ledges higher. We traversed left on the first Bench to see what could be had. The first simul-block was mine. After a couple dead end starts and sketchy down climbs, we our way to the left side of the ledge system just past a big white overhang looming above. I followed a tree'd up corner groove for a bit, to some steep exposed face climbing and finally to the base of a beautiful corner that finally yielded some gear worth inspiration. I climbed the corner and belayed on top. The next block was Mikes. The corner continued up, but was looking harder then reasonable for a gear-less simul in approach shoes. Mike peaked around the backside buttress of the corner and started climbing a steep tree. This lead to a tarzan swing into an overhung fist crack/tree climb that proved to be quite fun. He continued up until joining the canyon. A large obvious weakness that splits the East Face about halfway up. Typical Climbing on the East Face The rock at this point started to deteriorate to what would be the theme for the rest of the climb. Spot on descriptions from the Becky guide and 2 more simul-blocks brought us to the top of the East Face via continuous steep, loose, vegetated climbing. My knuckle was already starting to get sore from tapping holds. We threw some snow in our water bottles and snacked at a thank god patch of snow right at the top out and started the traverse. The traverse was exposed, loose and exciting. Every col looked impassible until you found the way. We were lucky to nail every turn (Becky Bible is too spot on) and made it to the Middle/Main Notch 11 hrs after leaving the car and were so excited to find the magical bivy mentioned in Wayne Wallace's report. The problem was, it was actually before the Main summit, and the Middle/Main notch was a steaming pile of poo. We traversed back to some low angled slabs near a sacred trickle and ate as much as we could. The faces you make after a day of choss doggin'. The next morning we made quick work getting up main peak and were on the summit in a couple hrs. In total, we did the route in 6 simul blocks to the Main/Middle Notch, and 2 more to the summit. We guessed our way down the hourglass gully and once again luckily stumbled upon the rappel station about half way down. We made it to the lake in quick time and passed the smells of civilization (I don't understand how someone can smell so strong of Laundry/Perfume after hiking), making it back to the car around 4:30. A trip to Rico's marked the end of another great trip! Although I wouldn't recommend this route to everyone, I do recommend it to the types of folks who like to get wild! A great cascades experience! Gear Notes: Single Rack to 2", a 8mm 70 meter rope and a brain bucket. We left the climbing shoes, crampons and ice axe at home. Approach Notes: Becky Bible
  2. Tried to car to car this route a couple years back. We ran into the same situation on where you guys backed off. Continued up the pitch with some m5 moves on a good piece that led to a full 70 meter pitch of unprotectable 1-2" thick AI4+ to below the dagger. Ended up digging for quite awhile to even find something to resemble an anchor. My partner busted off the snice while seconding and took a little TR whipper. Ended up making some time killer mistakes and had to bail. Good potential, but expect tricky protection and anchors on this face as well as some very thin sections. I was hoping a later season would improve conditions on the pitch you guys opted out of. The dagger was twice the size when we were there and looks pretty devious when the sun hits it... By the looks of your photos, it's probably on the fatter side then usual, although the dagger looks to have broke.
  3. [TR] Canadian Rockies - Ghost 1/3/2016

    I'm sure a outback could get up and down the big hill, but not much further into the north ghost. I have ssen outbacks make it into the south ghost. The waiporous seems a little trickier this year, but we managed to get in and out with a stock Tacoma, but the ruts on the last hill did require us to throw some 2x4's in to get out. Hydro is ultra fat this year. Looks like a fun trip, it's always a good day getting in and out of the ghost! How was the new track to VOB?
  4. WTB: Silveretta's

    Looking for a pair of Silveretta 400's or similar to fit a size 44.5-45.5 boots. Let me know what ya got! Ryan
  5. [TR] Jaberwocky Tower - East Face 10/24/2015

    We were stoked not to choose microspikes for the descent!
  6. Trip: Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect Date: 2/28/2015 Trip Report: After reading the reports on good conditions on Watusi Rodeo, Michal Rynkiewicz and I took back my “putting the tools away for year” statement and decided to start packing. Shout out to the guys who posted the last report! We hiked into the head of the valley and set up camp at the base of the avalanche gulley Friday night after work. It took us about 2.5 hrs in the dark. We started up the next morning at 3, unable to see Colonial as the moon had disappeared behind it. We followed the avalanche gully to where we thought the base of the climb might be (2.5 hrs). With the moon gone we still could not see the face at this point. We started up a couloir (should have taken a ramp right into the gully beneath the climb) and to the base of a nice looking flow being bombarded by spindrift. Realizing we were at the wrong flow (We think) and unable to resist what was in front of us we headed up. It was instantly steep and provided a short but stout pitch of WI5. Recommended start! After this, Mike started up a short pitch of ice into a vertical snowplow and traversed into Watusi’s first water ice flow. This ended up being a 900 ft simul-block that ended at the base of second ice flow enroute. The next block ran to the summit. It consisted of two ice bands and eventually into a more game on than it looks mixed chimney. Awesome pitch! Gear Notes: Single Rack to .75, 10 screws, a few knife blades, a specter, and couple pickets. Approach Notes: Approach - Park at the Colonial Creek drainage. Hike up the left side of the creek until the creek becomes reasonable for access. Follow the creek bed to the head of the valley. Running water makes this a good spot to bivy. From here, head up the obvious avalanche gully, eventually heading east below the route. Descent – Head down the west ridge of Colonial to the saddle separating Pyramid. Traverse generally East and stay high close to the base of the face. Continue traversing as long as possible avoiding cliff bans. When no longer able to traverse, start down climbing steep terrain until able to make a rappel back into the avalanche gulley and regain your tracks.
  7. Thanks for reporting, shit can get real fast! I don't know about you, but all it takes is reaching the car before all struggles of an epic disappear out of my head and I'm already planning for something else. I'm sure you'll be making your way up Stuart by the end of summer! Wrapping around the NBC to the summit is slightly confusing and the correct path is not obvious.
  8. Trip: Mt Hood - Yocum Ridge Date: 3/7/2015 Trip Report: "Some times you just got to get drunk and walk up a hill", Michal Rynkiewicz says as we are leaving the Timberline Lodge Friday around 8 pm. We woke around 5 am the next morning at Illumination Saddle as groups were gearing up for the Leuthold. A quick glimpse of Yocum assured us that it was in lean condition. We crossed the Reid Glacier and made our way to the base of the 1st Gendarme. We roped up and tackled the Gendarme head on. It was in great shape due to the N facing aspect, it climbed and protected well. Once at the top of the 1st Gendarme, we spoke of rappelling, but having trouble finding any suitable anchors, Mike lead out the downward traverse. This ended up being the crux of the route. As soon as he stepped out of vision, all I could hear was the sound of constant rock fall coming off the ridge. This was Mike digging for marginal piton placements. Conditions eased up a bit and we simul'd from the top of the 1st Gendarme to the top of the 3rd. The 3rd Gendarme lead to a similar down climb of the ridge. This block lead to the base of the Wickwire Variation of the Upper Buttress. Mike took over and charged up the narrow ice gully,he stopped at the junction where the Wickwire merges with the Becky. We ended up making a 50 meter rappel due to sun soaked rime ice that wouldn't support body weight. It was turning into shooting gallery as the temps warmed up. From here we skirted the base to join the Queens Chair following moderate slopes to the summit ridge. A quick couple summit shots and we made our way back down Illumination Saddle. Me looking as awkward as I felt on ski's... Gear Notes: 6 or so pitons, 4 pickets, 6 screws, ski's.
  9. [TR] Mt Hood - Yocum Ridge 3/7/2015

    I'd lean more on the "thin" conditions side, but we still enjoyed ourselves! I'd like to do a repeat when it's in more winter condition. Look up the cover of Wickwire's Addicted to Danger as it shows a pic of the 1st Gendarme.
  10. Have any pictures of the gap?
  11. [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015

    I think you may be thinking of this route http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=942982 . I'm not sure on the first ascent, though being it's a Mark Twight route, I wouldn't doubt it'
  12. [TR] Eldorado - East Ridge 2/28/2015

    Road open to the trail head?!
  13. Looks fat! I spent my time climbing the wrong spots while in CO!
  14. [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo Indirect 2/28/2015

    It is worth noting that the climb does lack consistent gear, and that to be found is often questionable at that. The routes cruxes supplied poor protection well beneath you. It may be worth a read of Wayne Wallace's trip report from awhile back before deciding on this one! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/10350/Number/140726 That being said,we had a blast and it's a great alpine climb for anybody up for it .
  15. 2014/2015 Washington State Ice Conditions

    Anyone sniff around Snoqualmie's N Face yet?
  16. [TR] Mount Colfax - Cosley-Houston Route 11/16/2014

    First pitch looked WI4. I'm pretty sure you could lead the rest of the ice with 70's at WI5-, the steepest sections looked short. I'm sure it's only fattening up since these pics were taken. Hopefully weather will permit another trip up there.
  17. [TR] Mount Colfax - Cosley-Houston Route 11/16/2014

    Ha, we had similar anchor experiences and crusty icefall on the upper snow field as well. Only brought one picket, so we disassembled anchors to have it on the next pitch. Not sure where you found cam placements, but I wiggled on a LA and a KB for shits and giggles. Screws were garbage as well. Bring a confident follower or a handful of pickets, it's in no fall conditions for the second as well. None the less, it's a fun route!
  18. 2014/2015 Washington State Ice Conditions

    Colfax is in. Screw placements weren't the most inspiring, anchors involved some creativity. Would have felt better with two pickets, bring some KB's and LA's. No other forms of rock gear. Bailing would be tough. We were hoping to climb the polish route, but given the anchor status on the CH, we decided against it. The pillar looked to be fully touching down. Conditions 11/16 are similar to conditions in pic. Snowshoes and avy gear not needed. Roads open to the trail head.
  19. Bear Mtn

    Bring some gloves for the approach, it will help keep down the devils club slivers!
  20. Trip: Darrington - Slab Daddy, Oso Rodeo and Illusion Wall Date: 7/3/2014 Trip Report: Finally got an opportunity to climb in the Squire Creek Area With Michal Rynkiewicz. It started as just Slab Daddy, then turned into me taking an extra day off work and our plans spreading to the rest of the routes in the area. We end up climbing 8 routes over 4 days. The climbing on Squire Creek Wall is phenomenal, our favorite being the Illusion Wall. It seems crazy people aren't climbing out here more. Steep slab, splitter cracks, and tons of knob action with a relatively short approach. We hiked in Wednesday night and camped at the river crossing going up to Slab Daddy and Oso Rodeo. We scouted the approach and ditched some water at the base of Slab Daddy. Thursday we linked up Slab Daddy and Oso Rodeo, offering 42 pitches of excellent slab climbing. We did each route in about 5 simul blocks each. Most of Slab Daddy was slightly damp and in the fog, giving the route a erie feel. It cleared up and gave us perfect overcast for Oso. Both routes were a ton of fun. Can you tell this is mid route on Slab Daddy? Fun Corner - Slab Daddy Stoked to top out Slab Daddy! Slabbin out on Oso Nearing the Top We slept in Friday after feeling a little drained from the day before. We hiked to the base of Illusion wall and went up The Engineers route and Dingbat. The Engineers route offered fun 5.9 climbing on some rusty 1/4" er's. It follows the far left hand skyline of the Illusion Wall. Dingbat is a amazing variation consisting of .10 crack, slab and climbing on steep knobs comparable to those of Iconoclast. Illusion Wall Top of Pitch 1 Engineers Pitch 2 Engineers Pitch 3 Engineers Looking down the amazing Dingbat On Saturday, we climbed the Page, Excalibur and The Holy Grail. Each route consistently surprising us with pitch after pitch of amazing climbing, protected well with either bomber new 3/8 stainless or splitter cracks. Illusion wall is much steeper and more featured then the Slab Daddy area. Looking up the crux pitch of The Page The Page Delivering More Goods Stellar finger crack on Excalibur Exposure on Excalibur Excalibur The Excalibur Flake! Three Finger in the Background Unbelievable Stemming Corner on Excalibur Excalibur Tips Layback on The Holy Grail Splitter Corner on The Holy Grail! The Holy Grail! More Steep Slab! Such Clean Rock I hope you don't hate amazing knobs The BEST pitch on Illusion Wall, The Holy Grail Just another view. One More Can't Hurt Come on, Really? More greatness? The Holy Grail All of the routes on Illusion follow very obvious paths, we never had any route finding issues having no topo's of each route. We felt the .10+ pitch on The Page to be the most difficult pitch on the wall, offering steep sustained slab and face. Sunday we headed up Schizophrenic, just another guidebook worthy route in the same location as 4 other classics. I'm not sure I could say the 11- felt any harder then the cruxes of the other routes. It feels like everything just stops at .10+ in Darrington. Gear Notes: Slab Daddy and Oso Rodeo - Gear Singles to 4". I think we only placed 4 or 5 pieces on Slab Daddy. Illusion Wall - A ton of water. This place is dry and the bivy gets hot. We found one glorious puddle to fill up on our last night. This wall can stay dry through a day of light drizzles. All routes do good with doubles to .75 and singles to 3" and a #4 for Schizophrenia. The only trace of water to be found at Illusion Approach Notes: From the town of Darrington, drive out Squire Creek Road and follow it until it ends. This will be the start of the Trailhead. These are both easy to follow, shortish hikes that will bring you to seas of amazing granite. Slab Daddy - Follow the road past the landslide and continue to pass two wash outs. Walk past the second, and after 150 or so feet there will be a well cut trail dropping into the forest and to the creek. Once your at the creek, walk 100' or so up and left and cross the creek at its lowest point. You will head left to a little rocky sand bar and a field of ferns. Find the boulder and start bush whacking toward the forest up and left and stay to the outside edge of the forest and then cut in. You will find a good trail that will lead you to the base of Slab Daddy. Oso Rodeo - Same as Slab Daddy, but continue up and right and follow the base of the cliff to a trail that eventually leads you to Oso Rodeo. Illusion Wall - Hike about 30-45 minutes to the start of the old trailhead. You will take the obvious right hand trail. Follow a well beaten path to the log crossing. Cross the river and head up a small talus path. Follow for a short distance and look for a cairn that will take you up right and into the woods. Follow a steep well beaten climber path until you reach a woods bivy. From here you will find a low angle slab that will take you up about a pitch worth. 4th + class slab leads you to the top. You can rappel this on the descent if you choose. Wander your way up and left through ledges until you reach the base of the wall that you can follow all the way to the base of Illusion Wall. The will be an obvious Bivy ledge at the base of the routes. Upper Ledge Climbs - Walk past the lowest bivy ledge and follow bolts up to a crack that leads the upper route ledge. The upper route ledge hosts routes in order, Excalibur, The Page, and the Engineer (W/ Dingbat Variation). Starting Up Engineers Pitch 1 The Page First Pitch of Excalibur, game on from the start Search for the Holy Grail - Heading straight up off the bivy ledge, follow easy slabs to a crack that will lead to the obvious roof above. The First Pitch of The Holy Grail Schizophrenic - From the bivy ledge, follow the trail back and past the first hump, drop down and look up. You will see bolts. This topo is all you really need for the Illusion Wall Routes. The dark blue line shows the excellent 5.8 approach pitch to the upper ledge routes. It is slabby 4th class between routes with traverse bolts. Illusion Wall Topo Slab Daddy and Oso Rodeo Topo's Slab Daddy Topo Oso Rodeo Topo Oso Rodeo Approach
  21. We saw some of your old anchors over there while rapping Schizo. Did you ever make it up any of the corner systems up there, it looked fantastic.
  22. Drytooling?

    Big Four Basin may be a good option. I was out there a couple weeks ago, and it sports some tall steep cliffs near the ice caves.
  23. Hey Jon- We ended up bringing 30 draws, skipped bolts whenever possible and simul-rapped everything. We climbed with 100' of rope out with the gri gri's attached on both ends to manage slack/set up a quick belay. It made for quick climbing, neither route took more then 4.5 hours to top out, rappelling took 2.5 hours. We were able to link a lot of rappel pitches as well.
  24. Whiskey, Weed and Black Sabbath!