steveheikkila

Super deluxe! Nice work.

You forgot the bit about travelling in crevasse terrain unroped (i.e.,without a partner). I have a friend who almost punched through a gaping crevasse at the bottom of the Reid. Not the best route to solo. Glad you made it through safely.

Probably headed here Monday morning. Thanks for the beta!

Nice TR! Thanks for the beta. Considering this for this weekend.

Well done!

Awesome.

Just got back yesterday (Bozeman Ice Fest). The ice is pretty thin--much more so than the Thanksgiving era photos above. There was a heatwave last week and the week before with temps in the 50s, so Hyalite lost a lot of ice.

Katie!!!!!!!!

Nice beta shot. Thanks!

Sweet!

Thanks Karl! It's a super fun route.

Trip: Mt. Jefferson - Jeff Park Glacier Date: 7/21/2012 Trip Report: We headed out of camp at 6700 feet at 1:00am and were able to cross the lower bergschrund, still in the dark, a bit left of the Mohler Tooth (lots of rockfall evidence in the area, but because it was still dark and cold there wasn't any rock falling). The upper begschrund is close to being beat. We got beta from a party who climbed the route the previous weekend and they managed to stand on a fairly level snow bridge around mid-glacier, and climb a 30 foot moderate snow all. When we got there this bridge was looking pretty 'delicate'. My buddy Derek managed to find a path right up against the Mohler Rock that was still in tact. I don't know how much longer it'll last. It appears that there is still a snow bridge right up against Smith Rock as well. There's no snow or ice on the knife edge ridge, so that part was pretty straight forward. There is still enough snow on the north ridge to allow a traverse around (rather than over) the first big bergschrund, protecting with pickets, but not a lot of snow on the summit block, so climbing the summit block is easy. It was a superfun, long day. We descended off of the East Face right at the higher gendarme, doing multiple raps down to the Whitewater. I don't recommend this, not only because it's a chossy, rockfall nightmare, but it's pretty slow going. It would have been faster to walk down to Red Saddle and around to the Whitewater, despite all the extra distance. Gear Notes: 4 pickets. Small rack (2 camalot .75s, 2 .5s, and a set of nuts). Half ropes. Second tool. Two ice screws (which we actually used).

Wow! Awesome photos Steph (and John).

Thanks for the report! Climbing this next weekend.

Sweet pictures guys! Looks like you had great conditions.

Wow!

Sweet!

Thanks for the beta Jens. I got it back with all contents.

On Saturday, October 8, 2011, I lost a Yellow and black Osprey Backpack at Smith. It contains: -Pair of clear plastic frame prescription glasses -Red Petzl climbing helmet -Red Mountain Hardwear Goretex rain shell -Red 5-10 climbing shoes -Blue Petzl climbing harness with various biners and Black Diamons ATC Guide -Two nalgene bottles. If you know the whereabouts of this pack please call me at 503-867-7163.

Nice photos! Thanks for the TR.

Thanks Ryan!

Wow David. If you did the Headwall Friday and the North ridge Saturday you are an animal climber! Those are BIG climbs, both of them.

Thanks!

Trip: Mt. Baker - Coleman Headwall Date: 8/1/2010 Trip Report: On the weekend of 7/31-8/1 Jed, David, and I climbed the Coleman Headwall. Affer days of sunny forecasts the weather forecast took a turn for the worse the day we left (Friday). Suddenly there was a 30% chance of Thunder showers. This, of course, turned into a 100% chance. We stopped and set up a tarp to wait out a deluge of rain half way up the Heliotrope trail. We considered bailing on the climb before it eventually stopped. As soon as we set up camp we found ourselves in a rainy white out. Prospects of climbing were 'iffy'. We got up a bit after 2:00 am to clear skies. David's buddy Chris, who planned to climb with us as a foursome, was nursing some sort of bug and woke up horribly sick. He decided to stay back and we were now a team of three. We headed out at around 3:30. The snow out of camp was already soft. It was overcast a good part of the night and things never firmed up very well. We proceeded, hoping the snow would firm up at higher elevation. David approaching the route: There are two general approaches: the more direct right side, and that left side over towards the start of the north ridge that angles up a big rock outcropping and rejoins the direct approach. We did that left side angling approach. The right side is melted out quite a bit. Looks nasty. The crux (in my view) was in the first pitch. You can either go up and left to hug in close to the face, or traverse out towards the edge. We went out to the edge because in close had a lot of rockfall debris. That meant that in the first pitch we immediately traversed across a section of black ice, and then up a long (maybe a pitch and a half) section of ice. It's nice because there are bomber screw placements in this section. We dodged quite a bit of rockfall even on the traverse though, and it was barely dawn. There's a good bit of rock fall hazard on the whole route to consider. I'd insist on climbing under colder, firmer conditions to avoid this. Here is the black ice section: Maybe half way up there's a big crevasse to cross that looked questionable, but we found a pretty straightfoward snowbridge once we got up to it: Towards the top of the route it's still all high angle snow, up to 50 degrees in places. It was super soft when we got there and we spent a lot of time placing New Zealand style deadman pickets for pro. It killed a lot of time. In the end we didn't summit until 2:00 (10.5 hours camp to summit): Gear Notes: ice tools, rope, 5 pickets, 7 screws. That probably seems like a lot of pro, but it worked out really well. As a team of three we basically did a running belay the whole way. With that much gear we were able to run multiple pitch lengths before regrouping to regather the pro. Approach Notes: A lot of people advise traversing the Coleman glacier low, somewhere in the 7000 foot range, to avoid a maze of crevasses higher up the glacier. We ended up traversing higher--maybe 8000 feet or so I think--and managed to thread a path fairly easily. Maybe we were just lucky.