JasonG Posted February 7, 2015 Posted February 7, 2015 Fred is looking to update the Green guide and would appreciate corrections and new route info. Here is what I've already sent him: Whitehorse- Larson/partner-NE face "Bacon Buddy": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=545608 Three Fingers- Thibault/Berdinka- East Face Couloir: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=545446 Frieh/Burdick- East side of North Peak (FWA): http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=644072 Sloan Peak- A bit of activity in recent years. Here are some new routes from Rad, Wayne, etc.: FA of SE ridge: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=834240 Fire on the Mountain: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=905897 Diamond in the Rough: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1041144 Buck- sounds like a correction needs to be made to the Cal Folsom entry (they climbed NR instead of NF, TR is from Wayne Wallace): http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/899441/1 Chiwawa- Haley/Burdick- NW face: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=442340 Goode- Herrington/Wertkin- Megalodon Ridge: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=721583 Dome- Wallace/Layton - "Gran Torino": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=895089 Schilling/Farr- "Indian Summer": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1033817'>http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1033817 South Peak of Gunsight- Schilling/Farr- "Lily of the West": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1033817 Traverse of Gunsight Peaks- Herrington/Hilden- "Gunrunner": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=702676 Formidable- Hick/ McBrian- Direct NE buttress: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=896257 Mixup Peak- Hicks/McBrian/Jodan. "The Misunderstanding"- http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1039670 Sahale- Hicks/McBrian- East Face Couloir: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1038727 West Peak of Black- Larson/Wehrly- NW ridge of West peak: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1076759 Vesper- Berdinka/Pires- "The Ragged Edge": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1112076 Quote
JasonG Posted February 7, 2015 Author Posted February 7, 2015 Lowell has been doing an excellent job of tracking new routes: http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/index_shorts.html http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/inbox.html Quote
JasonG Posted February 10, 2015 Author Posted February 10, 2015 Yep, Lowell has that down and we can use your NWMJ article for details. Perhaps the Klenke photo if Fred needs it? Thanks Wayne. Quote
dberdinka Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Better info from Pete Doorish ...on just about everything...but particularly Baring would probably make a lot of people happy. Didn't someone finish an ice route on the west face of sloan? Dave Brannon and I climbed a winter line on Hall peak eight years ago that may or may not have been new. The Beckey guide references the start as Skubi couloir after a kid who died in it. Where do you draw the line in Darrington? Flight of the Falcon on Salish Peak is definitely a summit route. Edited February 10, 2015 by dberdinka Quote
Alex Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 to the best of my knowledge no one has yet completed the west face of sloan ice lines. Quote
JasonG Posted February 10, 2015 Author Posted February 10, 2015 I think Fred may be including many of the long D-town routes in the new edition. MattP is coordinating the beta for him, I think. Good points on clarifications on existing routes. Fred knows there are errors throughout the edition and wants corrections. I will tell him to get in touch with Pete. Keep the suggestions coming! Quote
mattp Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 I'll do what I can to help him with this project. I'm not sure what he has in mind for Darrington but he has covered peaks and not crags in past volumes and I suspect that will be his practice here. Also, I bet there are a lot of updates for some of the more popular peaks in the guide which would serve a lot of users and which are in some ways harder to come by than new route reports. I don't know just what the time frame and scope of the project may be but lets do what we can to help update this remarkable resource and historical record for the central Cascade region of Washington! Quote
mattp Posted March 4, 2015 Posted March 4, 2015 I've been talking with Fred and I spoke with his publisher last week. They do not intend a new edition, but did think they could make some corrections. I have a rough draft of an update for the entry regarding Whitehorse Mountain, and I'd like to prepare a few more and see if they like them. Mount Baring would be an excellent choice, but I don't know if it will be easy to put it together. I'd certainly help but I've never been closer than the dark and muddy lake down below. Comments invited: first draft of corrections for Whitehorse Mountain. I'd like to verify that East Face description, and another question I have is whether anybody who has climbed the Glacier Route has found there to be a need to warn against climbing the actual glacier in the basin before you top out over a steep roll and climb onto the ice cap. When I climbed that way we found some crevasses on the lower glacier and avoided them, but I'm not sure there is any particularly notable hazard there. Quote
mattp Posted March 23, 2015 Posted March 23, 2015 Has anybody here approached the west side of Glacier Peak via the Meadow Mountain Trail / Fire Mountain High Route? I am told this is used to approach to climbs like Kennedy Glacier and Frostbite Ridge. Quote
kukuzka1 Posted April 19, 2015 Posted April 19, 2015 (edited) direct start to sw ridge/face?(cauthorn route) dorado needle 2 pitches,5.9+ and 5.8 Edited April 21, 2015 by kukuzka1 Quote
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