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JasonG

New edition- CAG Volume II (Green Beckey)

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Fred is looking to update the Green guide and would appreciate corrections and new route info.

 

Here is what I've already sent him:

 

Whitehorse- Larson/partner-NE face "Bacon Buddy": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=545608

 

Three Fingers-

Thibault/Berdinka- East Face Couloir: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=545446

Frieh/Burdick- East side of North Peak (FWA): http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=644072

 

Sloan Peak- A bit of activity in recent years. Here are some new routes from Rad, Wayne, etc.:

FA of SE ridge: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=834240

Fire on the Mountain: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=905897

Diamond in the Rough: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1041144

 

Buck- sounds like a correction needs to be made to the Cal Folsom entry (they climbed NR instead of NF, TR is from Wayne Wallace): http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/899441/1

 

Chiwawa- Haley/Burdick- NW face: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=442340

 

Goode- Herrington/Wertkin- Megalodon Ridge: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=721583

 

Dome-

Wallace/Layton - "Gran Torino": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=895089

Schilling/Farr- "Indian Summer": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1033817'>http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1033817

 

South Peak of Gunsight- Schilling/Farr- "Lily of the West": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1033817

 

Traverse of Gunsight Peaks- Herrington/Hilden- "Gunrunner": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=702676

 

Formidable- Hick/ McBrian- Direct NE buttress: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=896257

 

Mixup Peak- Hicks/McBrian/Jodan. "The Misunderstanding"- http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1039670

 

Sahale- Hicks/McBrian- East Face Couloir: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1038727

 

West Peak of Black- Larson/Wehrly- NW ridge of West peak: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1076759

 

Vesper- Berdinka/Pires- "The Ragged Edge": http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1112076

 

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Yep, Lowell has that down and we can use your NWMJ article for details. Perhaps the Klenke photo if Fred needs it? Thanks Wayne.

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Better info from Pete Doorish ...on just about everything...but particularly Baring would probably make a lot of people happy.

 

Didn't someone finish an ice route on the west face of sloan?

 

Dave Brannon and I climbed a winter line on Hall peak eight years ago that may or may not have been new. The Beckey guide references the start as Skubi couloir after a kid who died in it.

 

Where do you draw the line in Darrington? Flight of the Falcon on Salish Peak is definitely a summit route.

 

 

Edited by dberdinka

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to the best of my knowledge no one has yet completed the west face of sloan ice lines.

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I think Fred may be including many of the long D-town routes in the new edition. MattP is coordinating the beta for him, I think.

 

Good points on clarifications on existing routes. Fred knows there are errors throughout the edition and wants corrections. I will tell him to get in touch with Pete.

 

Keep the suggestions coming!

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I'll do what I can to help him with this project. I'm not sure what he has in mind for Darrington but he has covered peaks and not crags in past volumes and I suspect that will be his practice here. Also, I bet there are a lot of updates for some of the more popular peaks in the guide which would serve a lot of users and which are in some ways harder to come by than new route reports.

 

I don't know just what the time frame and scope of the project may be but lets do what we can to help update this remarkable resource and historical record for the central Cascade region of Washington!

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I've been talking with Fred and I spoke with his publisher last week. They do not intend a new edition, but did think they could make some corrections. I have a rough draft of an update for the entry regarding Whitehorse Mountain, and I'd like to prepare a few more and see if they like them. Mount Baring would be an excellent choice, but I don't know if it will be easy to put it together. I'd certainly help but I've never been closer than the dark and muddy lake down below.

 

Comments invited:

first draft of corrections for Whitehorse Mountain.

 

I'd like to verify that East Face description, and another question I have is whether anybody who has climbed the Glacier Route has found there to be a need to warn against climbing the actual glacier in the basin before you top out over a steep roll and climb onto the ice cap. When I climbed that way we found some crevasses on the lower glacier and avoided them, but I'm not sure there is any particularly notable hazard there.

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Has anybody here approached the west side of Glacier Peak via the Meadow Mountain Trail / Fire Mountain High Route? I am told this is used to approach to climbs like Kennedy Glacier and Frostbite Ridge.

 

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direct start to sw ridge/face?(cauthorn route) dorado needle 2 pitches,5.9+ and 5.8

Edited by kukuzka1

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