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Posted

Last year, this thread (http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1117652/Re_Your_Best_of_2013#Post1117652) was a lot of fun to read and it's about that time of the year again, so here goes:

 

2014 started as most years do these days (sadly) with a last gasp of climbing at Trout Creek. On literally the last day of the season, I scoped a line on the right side of the crag that turned out to be the perfect project for me this year. The next day I had to resign myself to waiting four months to try it again...

 

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The line.

 

In March I headed to various areas of the desert with friends for a short, but sweet blast of sunshine.

 

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Emma psyched to be back on Moonlight Buttress.

 

It's not everyday that your climbing highlight is someone else's send, but in May I got belay a good friend and constant partner as he put down a multi-year project at Trout.

 

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Wally oh so close at the end of the 13/14 season.

 

June and July were full work mode and once again my highlights were other people's sends:

 

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Cool clouds on Jeff Park Glacier.

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Sneaking up Cooper Spur in a brief weather window.

 

In August, I did manage to sneak in a few play days and was fortunate enough to help Blake and Colin put up a direct start to their new route on the M&M Wall.

 

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September was glorious and filled with the amazing granite of the Sierra Nevada:

 

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Don Juan Wall might be my favorite 5.11 period.

 

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Emma following Atlantis in the fog.

 

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Romantic Warrior. Definitely coming back for this one!

 

In October, after months of mini-trac work, lead burns, and one-hangs, I was super psyched to finally send the proj at Trout and add my first line to the crag.

http://mountainproject.com/v/the-compleat-angler/109570951

I also made a quick trip back to Moonlight and, despite hot(!) conditions, managed to barely squeak up it without weighting the rope.

 

November/December's highlights were a week and half in this incredible place:

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and marrying this amazing girl:

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Posted

Nice year! I spent most of the year working on a very difficult construction project, but managed to do a little travel and climbing. Ive had better years, but good none-the-less.

 

2-5-9-14 Banks: Cable, Zenith, etc 7p to WI7 w jess, Beau, Ben E, Shaun, Mike

2-11-14 Rainbow Serpent, Ghost 4p WI6 w Jess

2-15-14 Nothing but the Breast 3 p wi4+ w/Lane. 22p ice trip

3-4-14 Levitation 29 , Eagle Wall, IV-5.11-A0 w/Mike

3-8-14 Iron Messiah III-5.10, Zion

3-9,10-14 The Silmaril, The Watchman V-5.11-A1

3-12-14 Monkeyfinger 6p, 5.11-A1

3-13-14 Smashmouth 4p, 5.11b

3-29-14 Triassic Sands, Wholesome Fullback, Our Father, BVWall. 9p link-up to 10d

3-31-14 Unimpeachable Groping 6p 5.10+

4-1-14 Dark Shadows (complete), Mescalito IV-5.8 11p

7-5-14 E. Face Minuteman III-5.10b 6p w Paul

7-12.13-14 Gorillas in the Mist West Wall, Mt Stuart IV-5,11. With Jon T.

9-14-14 Solitude, Lookout pt, Index 5p 11b A1 w/Alex

9-20-14 Krimo to Liquid Gold 5p 5.11a w/ryan

9-21-14 Borderline-Angels Crest- High Plains Drifter 16p 11c w/alex,jon

9-28-14 Strange Boar to Black Rock, index 7 total p to 11a

10-5-14 Wildest Dreams 4p 5.11- A1, + 2p w/Doug H.

12-9to12-16-14 Hyalite 18p to WI5, M6

 

there are trip reports for the routes on my blog

Posted

hmm...2014, seems a long time ago, here's what i can recollect:

- great trip to red rocks to start the year

- spring break trip to zion for the desert shield and the touchstone wall (took a nasty fall which ended the trip and my climbing for awhile after)

- shenanigans on st peters dome

- summer in yosemite - got washed off half dome but had a great week up in tolumne, including fairview, cathedral and tenanya peak - saw a cougar, which i thought maybe the highlight of the trip, even if it was only for 5 seconds :)

-solo jaunt on the timberline trail in early summer

-guye peak in a thunderstorm w/ geoff after nearly seeing the k-19 get kilt

- wrapped up the year w/ a kewl combo: 3 days backpacking on the olympic coast in the park, then 2 more kayaking in the sound

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Posted

I had a fun filled 2014. Here are some of the bigger highlights

 

March - Mount Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir

May - Mount Hood - South Side

June - Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge

June - Mount Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver

June - Mount Rainier - Curtis Ridge

July - Mount Triumph - Northeast Ridge

July - Mount Baker - North Ridge

July - Liberty Bell - Beckey Route

July - Le Petit Cheval - Spontaneity Arete

July - Grand Teton - Complete Exum Ridge

July - Granite Peak - Southwest Ramp

August - Mount Baker - Boulder Cleaver/Glacier

September - Mount Slesse - Northeast Buttress

 

Looking forward to another great year of 2015!

Posted

I had a good year with lots of ice and rock that has been climbed.

 

Jan - Ouray/Silverton/Eureka, CO. Mostly longer backcountry routes: The Ribbon, Highway to Hell, Stairway to Heaven and my CO favorite so far which was in the exceptional shape last year - the Goldrush.

 

Stairway to Heaven (peak 13419'):

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On the crux of the Stairway to Heaven:

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The Goldrush:

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Jan/Feb - two trips to Cody, WY with one short stop in Hyalite canyon, MT: Duck Soup, Broken Hearts, Bozo's Revenge (2x), Moonrise, High on Boulder (2x), Smoked Turkey, Main Vein; The Dribbles, Magically Delicious, Mouse Trap.

South Fork, WY:

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On the crux of High on Boulder:

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Feb - my annual pilgrimage to Can Rockies before the siberian temps kicked us out to Lilloett, BC.

Gibraltar wall right side (Canal Flats, BC), Moonlight (Canmore, AB), Guinness and Guinness Stout (Field, BC), Marble Canyon (AB), South Ghost (AB): Sunshine, Aquarius, Malignant Mushroom.

 

Gib wall:

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"Laurel-promised-not-to-fall" top out:

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Nice views down on Kootenay river:

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Arrival to the Ghost - big walls everywhere:

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Getting up to the Recital Hall:

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In the Recital Hall: Fearful Symmetry and Rainbow Serpent:

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Life was good in Canmore in the balmy -25C but we left for Lilloett:

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Lilloett, BC:

Icy BC, White Room, Honeyman falls, Oregon Jack.

Icy BC:

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In the White Room:

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On Honeyman:

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March - return to Can rockies: Professors, Carlsberg, Weathering Heights, Anorexia Nervosa.

On the Professors:

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Back to the Ghost:

Phantom area (with Malignant Mushroom):

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On the Anorexia Nervosa:

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On Weathering Heights:

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April - my first trip to Vantage:

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May - Red Rocks, NV. Rental clown cars are great for getting into the Black Velvet canyon.

Main park: Mescalito tower - East Face and Dark Shadows, Ginger Cracks, Icebox canyon, Bitches Brew, Purblind Pillar.

Black Velvet canyon: Frogland, Windy peak (Jubilee Song), Prince of Darkness.

 

Mescalito from the approach:

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On the East face of Mescalito:

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On the Jubilee Song:

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July.

Finally got to the summit of J-burg.

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NE Butt on Goode:

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August.

Ice Cliff Arete on Stuie:

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Southern Pickets - Inspiration group:

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September - Smiffistani and NW Face on Liberty Bell.

 

 

 

October.

My first trip to the City of Rocks, ID and a very hard fall which took me a while to recover from.

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Wolf Rock (Oregon):

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November - I have officially become a yankee:

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Posted

Started 2014 by climbing ICBC with Nastia but it went downhill after that, other things have been distracting me from climbing, mainly my knee wore out to bone on bone. Think I got out a couple times to solo Great Northern Slab but that's it.

 

In the middle of Dec got a total knee replacement which should allow a return to climbing. This is the bottom, it's only up from here. The frickin drugs have gotten bad, vomited and couldn't eat right for about 3 days. Three weeks out and yesterday I hiked a half mile up the Little Si trail. The trail with all the rock steps becomes technical 5.5 when you are on crutches.

 

CONGRATS Nastia, on all the ice leading and Jburg, and CITIZEN!!

Posted

Here is Buckaroo coming out of his climbing retirement and who after O/N drive from Seattle jumped straight on a 5. A nice warm-up :).

 

Icy BC - p3

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Sounds like the worst is now over and you are on the road to a full recovery. Heal up quickly, man! :tup:

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