Looking for ice/ alpine partner

[mzvarner]

Getting back into the climbing game after taking 2 years off to finish college. I'm hoping to make some trips for ice and alpine this winter/ spring and gain some more experience. i have made a dozen trips to Bozeman leading up to WI4 in the past. I have climbed ice in Leavenworth and banks lake as well. Climbed chair peak via NE corner. Colchuck in winter and made attempts at dragon tail and mt. Hood as well but bailed due too conditions.

 

Some goals would be finishing hood and dragontail. Ice trips to Bozeman, Canada, Wyoming, and many more.

 

Very flexible schedule, have all my own gear, just need someone who can get out and has days off during the week and weekends regularly. Send me a pm and we can figure it out.

[brandonmc]

Hello, I am a competent, safe climber with a full rack, and ice rack. I have led up to WI4 { mt baker pan dome } have led chair peak Ne buttress, and followed chair N face. Have climbed hood in the winter, Rainer and made it to 16k on Denali. On rock i lead 5.9's and follow up into the lower 10's. I don't have all the time in the world but can offer great stoke on any objective. I would be able to get out once every couple weeks this winter. I would like to climb d-tail triple couloirs, chair peak n-face, and pineapple express but would be up for anything.

Give me a call at 425-446-0717

Brandon

Edited December 28, 2014 by brandonmc

[wayne]

Anyone want to go scrapping for ice around Alpental later this week? Thurs, fri?

[manninjo]

I'm free and looking to climb anytime this week, sent you a pm.

[DPS]

Anyone want to go scrapping for ice around Alpental later this week? Thurs, fri?

 

I went for a hike on 12/28/14 with some friends and noted conditions:

 

Alpental Falls: All are fully flowing water, likely needs more than a week of cold temps to form

 

Denny Mountain: Ice is aerated and 3" thick in gulleys with some thicker icicles, needs more melt freeze cycles.

 

Flow Reversal: It is there but looked mighty thin.

 

Source Lake Line: Almost touching down.

[Techdiver]

We have done some "climbing" around Source Lake on 12.27. it was sketchy and pro used was purely cosmetic

 

 

Source Lake line

Rap Wall

 

Edited December 30, 2014 by Techdiver

[DPS]

Hey TechDiver,

 

I think the photo your captioned as 'Source Lake Line' is actually Bryant Buttress, unless I am mistaken.

 

Dan

[Alex]

No, the thing marked "Source Lake Line" is in fact Not Quite a Plum, and the thing marked "Rap Wall" is in fact Bryant Buttress/Hotline.

 

Rap Wall is further down the hill, Source Lake Line is more over towards Chair Peak, at the top of the av gully that DPS and I almost died in long time ago.

[GerritD]

Alex, as I understand you are the authority on what is what around here but it seems everyone is calling the crag in Techdiver's 2nd picture rap wall. See the MP link below.

 

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rap-wall/108509194

 

As for Not Quite a Plum, again, you must be correct but I have heard everyone call that Bryant buttress. It looks like you have been correcting noobs for well over 10 years now.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/284119/Alpental_ice

 

I have labeled a picture below with what I believe is what you are saying the crags are named. Where is rap wall? As I understand the top left most crag labeled in the picture as Bryant Buttress has a number of fixed hanging draws and very difficult mixed climbing so if this is not Rap wall it is another very difficult mixed crag.

 

[DPS]

I thought Rap Wall was to the left of 'Not Quite A Plum' on the way up to The Tooth, not visible in this photo.

[GerritD]

For context the NE Slab of The Tooth is the smear of ice in the top left. This photo is cropped down from a larger photo which doesn't show any crags that I can see further left.

[DPS]

For context the NE Slab of The Tooth is the smear of ice in the top left.

I don't think that is right. We should be able to see 'Hemlock Prow' to the right of the NE Slab, which I cannot.

[Techdiver]

Well, there you have it gentleman. This is what happens when every damn rock around here has a name. I never get it right.

For what it's worth- the person in 2nd pics. is standing directly bellow Ghost Dog M11 dry tool line and 1st. pic. is about 5min and 200f bellow it.

[Alex]

GerritD your pic is correctly labelled. And in fact people calling that Hotline area "Rap Wall" is understandable as Ghost Dog is there and considered a big mixed route but it is in fact not part of the original set of relatively closely spaced climbs that make up Rap Wall. Rap wall is pretty "short", on the right hand side steep uphill, directly on the summer trail to the Tooth. you cant really see it in this pic of yours

[Alex]

So yeah, Rap Wall proper is the dark, kind of shortish wall to the left of "Bryant Buttress?" in this pic, it has 3? 4? bolted routes. Ghost Dog isn't with these other Rap Wall climbs, it is downhill there by the Hotline/Bryan Buttress. I guess that they are "separate" is arbitrary.