TFT - South East FaceTorment beta please

[DPS]

So, that last couple of times I did Torment-Forbidden, we climbed the South Ridge of Torment (I think). There was a fair amount of not super easy climbing on it, and I have heard the South East Face is considerably less technical.

 

I don't have my Beckey guides anymore, so can someone give me some beta on the South East Face, particularly where it starts relative to the S ridge (which we started right at the notch)?

 

TIA

Edited June 8, 2014 by DPS

[cam yarder]

when i climbed tft we were considering climbing the southeast face of torment but i'm really glad we didn't. i THINK the start to the southeast face is just above the bergschrund climber's right of the south ridge moat-crossing start. most summers, the 'schrund is nasty and maybe even impassable. maybe that wasn't always the case, especially in beckey's time.

 

i don't know why you'd want to climb the southeast face anyway. the rock is awful, crack-less, ledgy and grassy. the south ridge isn't exactly a gem either, but i don't recall anything harder than 5.6, and even then it's only a move or two on the whole route.

[Bronco]

Hi Dan:

 

cam harder is right in his description, there is a schrund at the transition from the Tee Pee glacier to the gully leading to the SE face. It is climbers right of the chimney leading to the S Ridge and fairly obvious when you're looking up at it.

 

A partner and I climbed Tormet via the SE face July 8, 2011. The schrund was in good shape but still spicy, dare I say a "do not fall zone". My parter was able to step across, mine was more of a plant the tools and swing over. The rest of the face seems like it was class 3-4 and very loose. I was seconding and had to dodge a couple of good size rocks that were balanced on small ledges above. I think we mostly stayed to the climbers right of the depression/gully running up the center of the face. Seemed like it was fast and direct to me compared to some of the route finding issues on the S. Ridge but more risk of rockfall and getting your pants dirty.

[mhux]

I've climbed Torment this way the last two years, last year in August there were no cracks in the (Taboo? I forget) glacier and we could down climb about 10 feet of steepish ice into the berg, where there were good stances for switching to rock shoes. I wouldn't recommend this route, since the entire thing is threatened by a big ice block (which apparently killed Craig Luebben?), and the climb out of the berg, while on solid rock, has some pretty sketchy 'mid 5th' sections which aren't fun to solo. Once on the face, its easy scrambling to the top though- very cruiser. Just that getting there sucks/is sketchy. Haven't done the S ridge but I'm over the SE face...

[Kyle_Flick]

I've down climbed the SE face with a rap to get down and over the schrund at the bottom. It was extremely loose and unappealing. I'd recommend the standard approach via the South Ridge/SW Face as better rock and more protectable.

[chris]

If you're going to climb the TFT in two nights, I really enjoyed starting from the Torment Basin approach. There are great bivy sights at the toe of the snowfield/glacier feature on the SW side, and the snowfield to the notch is a mellow 25-30 degree slope.

 

Email me if you want more ideas!

[JasonG]

I agree with Kyle. I've gone up the S. ridge twice and down the SE face once and the South Ridge is certainly the way to go. The thing is on the south ridge is to not go too high too fast and traverse climber's left into a shallow depression after coming up out of the notch from the Taboo. If you do this, I've found the climbing pretty mellow.

[DPS]

I've done the South Ridge twice (from the notch) and both times we did an awkward couple of moves leftward right off the deck - felt about 5.9 and another steep pitch climbing on good pockets, but somewhat strenuous. I keep reading trip reports that indicate the route went at 4th - low 5th. Am I doing something wrong?

[Off_White]

I'm with you Dan, the only time I tried the S Ridge (long long ago) was from the Torment Basin approach, and we wound up with some difficult dirt filled finger crack in a corner that was pretty stout, particularly in mountain boots. Next pitch was pretty hard too, and then we bailed off to the left and found slings descending that face around there.

 

I did the SE Face the next year, and recall the schrund being tough as others note, including a free hanging rappel on the descent. I don't recall the route being especially loose, but time does funny things with memory.

 

I have been envious of others easy ascents of the S ridge. I've always thought the true TFT would take in the NW Ridge as the start, but I suspect that may be a horrorshow as well.

 

[JasonG]

Hmmmm, I remember it being a little harder than the rest out of the notch but more mid fifth or so. My memory isn't good enough to provide specifics other than go where it looks easiest. I know, not helpful.

[chris]

I've done the South Ridge twice (from the notch) and both times we did an awkward couple of moves leftward right off the deck - felt about 5.9 and another steep pitch climbing on good pockets, but somewhat strenuous. I keep reading trip reports that indicate the route went at 4th - low 5th. Am I doing something wrong?

 

You got to be - I did the TFT last year in approach shoes, and we both know I can't climb 5.9 in approach shoes. Want to grab a cup of coffee and catch up?