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kevbone

Chopped bolt at ozone

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Maybe instead of putting in a bolt anchor 45 feet up next to a tree, which is against all the long held traditions at Beacon Rock, you simply cut the slings like you've been doing over on the NW face? Seems like it would make a little more sense. Lisa Lantz is a big advocate of bolting Beacon Rock against the wishes of the climbing community? Wow, that's interesting.

Clueless as ever I see, but what the hell, let's break your conjecture down anyway:

 

...against all long held traditions at Beacon Rock...

Really? Are you serious?

 

Because unless I missed something in the course of replacing seventy or so anchors out there I'd say the 'long held tradition' at Beacon Rock is to slap a frigging anchor in pretty much anywhere and everywhere. I'd say that 'tradition' is why there's a ton of unnecessary bolted anchors on Beacon's South Face.

 

...instead of putting in a bolt anchor 45 feet up next to a tree, which is against all the long held traditions at Beacon Rock.

And, since you appear as dense as pink on the concept, I'll repeat - it wasn't my anchor, I simply moved the existing anchor off the tree. And if you had even the slightest clue about the anchor in question then you'd know that I didn't "put an anchor next to a tree", rather I anchored the slings in the small alcove behind the tree so the net effect is a complete wash as the only change is the slings are on the hangers instead of the tree. Capisce? Feel free to chop it, but if I pulled the slings then we both know you'd be bitching and whining about that.

 

Maybe...simply cut the slings like you've been doing over on the NW face? Seems like it would make a little more sense.

Well, given I don't really care all that much for the NW face and seldom get on it, if slings (or ropes) are missing there, it wasn't me. In fact, the anchors you're using on the top of p1 across the NW face are anchors [w/ slings] that I replaced and paid for (two at pink's request) and (unfortunately) a bunch of the pins and bolts on 'Stone Soup' came from me, the NW face vandal.

 

But then you've been spewing this kind of ridiculous tripe and slander right along so why should this one be any surprise.

 

Lisa Lantz is a big advocate of bolting Beacon Rock against the wishes of the climbing community? Wow, that's interesting.

This is the basic problem with you guys - a paucity of fact, a complete failure to understand even the basics of how Beacon Rock is managed as a resource, and an abject failure to establish trusted working relationships with the various land managers and agencies.

 

If [any of] you had [EVER] bothered to inform yourself, learn the facts, understand the policy, or establish even nominal working relationships with people like her, then you'd know that: no, Lisa didn't and doesn't advocate bolting at Beacon Rock. What she does advocate - and explicitly requested - is anchors off the trees and replacing chain anchors with camo'ed slings. But then we both know you aren't even vaguely interested in such reality-based WSP matters or you'd already have known that little tidbit for like the past eight years.

 

...bolting Beacon Rock against the wishes of the climbing community?

So you guys are now suddenly against bolting Beacon. Wow, that's interesting.

 

Because after the 50 bolt/pin 'Stone Soup', the bolt on FFA right, and of course the head-pointed, retro-bolted, pre-placed pro Wild Turkeys 'FFA' where you guys actually had the boneheaded audacity to claim authority to grant Matt permission for the bolting, you'll have to forgive me if I missed where "bolting Beacon Rock [is] against the wishes of the climbing community". In fact - quite to the contrary - of late you guys seem way, way 'all in' on bolting Beacon Rock (not to mention clear-cutting, chiseling and terraforming).

 

And we won't even get into three leading BRCA members just getting busted for deliberately breaking the closure on the West Face. Surely it must have been a 'scientific research climb' to better manage the resource in the same way the Japanese do 'scientific research whaling' to better manage whales, right? Pretty fucking savvy move given it was the first thing the new head ranger learned about how serious the "climbing community" is about cooperatively managing the resource. But then, hey, I'm the idiot here.

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JH?

Not me, I only replace them- definitely not my cup of tea.

 

 

 

 

266863_l.jpg

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JH, no your not the town idiot just the town trouble maker , your Not on the BRC and never well be . You just Love too kiss the Rangers asses and make trouble for everyone. Some day trouble is going too walk up too your face and your going too piss all over yourself.

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Not sure who chopped the bolt at Ozone, but its a bad fall now getting to the first bolt 30 feet up. Yes, its easy climbing but beginner climbers do it regularly.

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It must be fun when you guys run into each other at Beacon. Brotherhood of the rope, indeed.

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It must be fun when you guys run into each other at Beacon. Brotherhood of the rope, indeed.

 

 

 

[video:youtube]

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JH, no your not the town idiot just the town trouble maker , your Not on the BRC and never well be . You just Love too kiss the Rangers asses and make trouble for everyone. Some day trouble is going too walk up too your face and your going too piss all over yourself.

Dude, it wouldn't be my first rodeo with a sociopath bedeviled by violent tendencies and anger management issues so don't flatter yourself. But, hey, do keep threatening me on the internet as it does neatly tidy things up overall. And who knew the BRCA had thugs? It just makes for yet another inadvertent and self-revealing press release. Oh, and pissing all over yourself is what would happen if you ever tried to lead one of my routes.

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JH, no your not the town idiot just the town trouble maker , your Not on the BRC and never well be . You just Love too kiss the Rangers asses and make trouble for everyone. Some day trouble is going too walk up too your face and your going too piss all over yourself.

Dude, it wouldn't be my first rodeo

 

No, Apparently Stone Rodeo was….

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No, Apparently Stone Rodeo was….

Actually, that was my parther's rodeo, I just belayed and followed.

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Hey guys, was goading Joseph the whole point of this thread? I thought this was about a single chopped bolt at Ozone, so what does anchor replacement at Beacon have to with anything? We've established that despite the accusation on post #2, JH was not the person involved in the Ozone incident, so move along with your investigation and let the Beacon dispute part XVIII lapse, okay?

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A #3 Camelot protects just to the left of the chopped bolt. Who cares that much about that bolt anyway?!? Big deal. Go climb it and forget about the silly bolt.

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Hey guys, was goading Joseph the whole point of this thread? I thought this was about a single chopped bolt at Ozone, so what does anchor replacement at Beacon have to with anything? We've established that despite the accusation on post #2, JH was not the person involved in the Ozone incident, so move along with your investigation and let the Beacon dispute part XVIII lapse, okay?

 

i don't think they established who did it, JH just seems to be a likely suspect. he defended himself by saying, that sort of shit wasn't his cup of tea, when he has altered routes in the past. so it's all relevant as far as i'm concerned :P

 

…. the route in discussion at beacon is the same guys route at ozone, i'm just not pulling fairies out of my butt hole to get a rise or start a conflict. the guy's routes i'm talking about (at beacon and ozone) is one of my best friends, and a second father to me.. definitely a pillar in the climbing community :)

Edited by pink

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A #3 Camelot protects just to the left of the chopped bolt. Who cares that much about that bolt anyway?!? Big deal. Go climb it and forget about the silly bolt.

 

 

i think that's more for JIm to decide…. No offense :)

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Wrong on both counts.

 

a) ...he defended himself by saying, that sort of shit wasn't his cup of tea...

I said the NW Face isn't my cup of tea - read closer. As for a bolt at the ORG, there isn't a route over there I'm interested in let alone would bother fucking with.

 

b) When he has altered routes in the past.

Another complete and utter fabrication. Rather, I have assiduously avoided changing the character of any climbs and have only done so twice, both in one day - and did so together with and for your second father, Opdycke.

 

The first was the bolt on the 'Reasonable Richard' runout where, after a lot of discussion, both Opdycke and I felt strongly Olson's star rating combined with the runout on a 5.9 represented an unreasonably attractive nuisance [for sport climbing crossovers]. The second was Opdycke wanted the old, chopped anchor on the perch under the Dodd's tree restored - I obliged him. People didn't like either so after talking with Opdycke I removed both. Beyond that there isn't single route I've ever "altered" in any way.

 

Then again, never letting facts stand in the way of just making up utter bullshit to suit the moment or trying to make a case for something is a high art with a long tradition at Beacon that goes way back.

 

Done here, bye...

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reasonable richard fucking sucks. 1 star.

 

yeah all that crap below is just to get to the good stuff…. but 3 stars = 1 bolt… 4 slings= 2 bolts :P it's basic Beaconomitry :hcluv:

Edited by pink

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A #3 Camelot protects just to the left of the chopped bolt. Who cares that much about that bolt anyway?!? Big deal. Go climb it and forget about the silly bolt.

 

I agree Kenny. Does not change the character of the route. But Chopping bolts is a no no. IMO. Especially Jims

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i suspect the International Jewish Conspiracy...either that or the Earth Liberation Front :)

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i suspect the International Jewish Conspiracy...either that or the Earth Liberation Front :)

 

96aid.jpg

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i suspect the International Jewish Conspiracy...either that or the Earth Liberation Front :)
I'm sure it was them Taliban mo-fo's. Allah Noct Bolt! Viva la Trad!

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i suspect the International Jewish Conspiracy...either that or the Earth Liberation Front :)
I'm sure it was them Taliban mo-fo's. Allah Noct Bolt! Viva la Trad!

 

 

It was an inside job :hcluv:

 

108437775_medium_47113e.jpg

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i suspect the International Jewish Conspiracy...either that or the Earth Liberation Front :)
I'm sure it was them Taliban mo-fo's. Allah Noct Bolt! Viva la Trad!

 

 

It was an inside job :hcluv:

 

108437775_medium_47113e.jpg

:lmao: I knew he wasn't dead.

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