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David_Parker

More Ice wanted

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Jens and Loren did it this year in swift time. I think the hardest part might be passing the schrunds near the final exit chute from what I could see. However I aint never done it and they might have better info for sure. I ditto the bombing effect by Lambone but it is getting colder too.. I have a photo or 2 if you want to look..

David just how can you say a thing like you did and expect it not to be interpreted as directed at me since I was the only person that had responded about the ice cliff glacier at all? rolleyes.gif Open mouth and insert foot.

[This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-28-2001).]

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Here you can look at what I was talking about. This is about 2 months old so.......

Thanks to Mike Adamson letting me post them on his webserver.

girth_pillar.bmp

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Hey Wayne, do you recall 400 ft. of dirt on Buckner? No? I didn't think so. When did we do that? Last week in August right? In fact did we have to do much rock climbing? Naw, just a short little bit at the top! Can you really see all the route from Forbidden or vicinity. Not really. Oh, that's right, we did the couloir which definitely can't be seen unti you're over there. Anyway, I don't know jack shit so I'm gonna stop giving beta on this site. I'm just gonna shut up and climb!

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quote:

Originally posted by dberdinka:

So just right of photo, you can see what I believe is the Girth Pillar (?). Wasn't there some talk about massive rock fall on the route earlier in the year? That is certainly some very clean looking, grey granite, but it doesn't look quite like a fresh rock scare. Any thoughts, info?

On top of that, The north face of Buckner had at least 400' of dirt showing on Sept 15th. When are you guys saying in was in shape? Sure it's climbable, but I wouldn't be calling it in shape.

The following was posted on 9/14/2001

 

Confused in B'ham.....

[This message has been edited by dberdinka (edited 09-28-2001).]

Ummmmm.... huh? That big, huge, enormous, gigantic vertical rock scar isn't obvious to you... Have you had your eyes checked latley?!?!?! You ever play Wheres Waldo? I'd suggest it, it's good for routefinding skills.

 

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Woaw there David, please don't stop posting on my account. I'm always interested in finding out about route conditions in different parts of the range. However, in this particular case, considering that a vast majority of climbers would make a distinction between the "North Face" Route and the "North Coulior" route, rather than insulting folks such as summitseeker when they state (correctly) that the North Face of Buckner is out of shape, maybe you should provide accurate information about what

you climbed and the condition it was in. Of course, this is just my opion but the belligerence around here wears thin.

Lambone --- Ouch!!

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Yeah, but I did get a CLOSE up view of the reg. north face too! Dirt is NOT the appropriate word! It was very doable and would have been our backup. In late August, you would not have had to venture onto rock at all. Just my humble opinion from someone who was there! Really!

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My thoughts on Ice Cliff Glacier, for what its worth:

I climbed N Ridge Stuart a few weekends back (same weekend as Lambone did, I seem to recall from previous posts) and there were absolutely MASSIVE avalanches echoing around that little glacial cirque between the North Ridges of Sherpa and Stuart. It was very, very impressive, though it made me glad I was on a ridge and not down on the glacier . . .

The icefalls I heard started around 9:30-ish I believe and continued throughout the day -- I don't know if there was any earlier in the day than that -- but the take home message, for me, is that unless it gets considerably colder, my comfort level would lead me to avoid that area, certainly during the bulk of the daylight hours. Of course, daylight hours are growing shorter by the day . . .

Anyway, I do recall from earlier readings that many people have climbed the route this late in the year and succeeded -- so clearly it CAN be done.

For the brave who care to follow in their footsteps, good luck. But you won't see ME up there anytime soon!

Take care, all

Steve

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So just right of photo, you can see what I believe is the Girth Pillar (?). Wasn't there some talk about massive rock fall on the route earlier in the year? That is certainly some very clean looking, grey granite, but it doesn't look quite like a fresh rock scare. Any thoughts, info?

On top of that, The north face of Buckner had at least 400' of dirt showing on Sept 15th. When are you guys saying in was in shape? Sure it's climbable, but I wouldn't be calling it in shape.

The following was posted on 9/14/2001

quote:

Originally posted by David Parker:

Hey summitseeker, just thought you should be aware N. Face of Buckner is VERY IN! I know because I did it only 2 weeks ago and it will only be better now. I'm curious to know what makes you say it isn't. I don't think it is prudent to report things like this because someone reading your post might cancel a trip there and later regret your false beta. Just something for you to consider. Dave

 

Confused in B'ham.....

[This message has been edited by dberdinka (edited 09-28-2001).]

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Yes ,David ,The N.face couloir was in .The reason we climbed it was it offered more interesting ice than the other regular rt.They both were continuous in August.

Thank you for the picture if Eldorado.Even though it looked incomplete, it is my guess that it reguires a couple of fall storms to turn it into the verglas masterpiece it seems.Ther doesnt always have to be a thick super hiway of ice to be a quality ice experience.Look whats going on with mixed.Go for it anyways!I cant wait to stab the thin!!!!

[This message has been edited by wayne1112 (edited 10-02-2001).]

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FYI, this is what the upper part of the NW couloir of Eldorado looked like this weekend. The lower part didn't have much ice at all though, and what you can see is mostly fresh snow or 1" ice.

eldo_nw_gully.jpg

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