[TR] Joffre - Central Pillar (Beta/Spoiler) 9/11/2013

[marc_leclerc]

Trip: Joffre - Central Pillar (Beta/Spoiler)

 

Date: 9/11/2013

 

Trip Report:

Yo, so a couple months ago I climbed the central pillar of Joffre with my lady. She'd spent some time in the alpine and is a great rock climber, so after reading the guidebook description of 10c climbing on good rock we figured the central pillar would be a good choice for her first real alpine rock climb. Seeing as 10c is piss for her and below my limit for multipitch onsight soloing we opted to go light and take maybe 4 or 5 cams up to a #2, a set of wires and one single 8.5mm half rope seeing as we wouldn't be falling off anyways.

 

We climbed 'The Shadow' the day before, both lowering back down and taking multiple burns on the pitch so our hips were really feeling it on the walk in. Lots of rockfall hazard on the approach, mostly from snowmelt running down the Twisting Couloir. We crossed the schrund to the right of the Twisting and did some 5.9 soloing and a couple quick hip belay maneuvers to get onto the Pillar and away from the Twisting Couloir as quickly as possible.

 

So after lunch, she led a simul block of mostly 5.7 or 5.8 climbing to the start of the pillar on good'ish rock. Then I took over and led the three supposedly '10c' pitches to the top. I thought perhaps I was getting sick, the Shadow had completely fucked me the day before, or I was malnourished and dehydrated as the 10c climbing felt both surprisingly hard and scary. The rock wasn't the worst I'd ever climbed, but not 'excellent' by any means. On the second pitch I had to run it out about 40ft to 50ft off a cam behind a suspect block on sustained steep climbing on suspect holds. A fall from the crux would have meant two broken legs if you got off easy, possible death if you really fucked it up. The routefinding was hard on this pitch, and many of the cruxes would have been desperate to reverse. We topped it out no problem in the end but it felt like one of the more engaging adventures of my summer. Luckily Brette is a very competent climber with a good head and had no problem handling the whole mission despite it being more full on than expected.

 

I personally found all of this really fun, but I know a lot of people who would disagree. I love this kind of climbing and found myself right where I wanted to be in the end, I am certainly not slagging the route. Just telling people how I found it.

 

I wanted to write this as a heads up to anyone thinking of hopping on the route who may be unsure of their ability level. Its a great route and a fully worthy adventure, I would highly recommend it to anyone who is solid and capable and looking for the full experience. Just don't expect it to feel like 'Life on Earth' or 'Mouses Tooth' or other similarly graded routes in the area. Those routes are complete and total piss, this route is hard. Its not long but packs a punch. Bruce you sandbagger! I'd call it 5.10+++ R/X. I would recommend being able to onsight 5.12 on gear consistently and comfortably at the crag before climbing this one, or having elephant sized balls of steel. Maybe I'm just soft, who knows...

 

Took us 14 hrs car to car. We were tired. Bring helmets.

 

 

 

 

 

Walking in.

 

 

P1 of the main pillar. This pitch was fine, look out for the next one though...

 

 

The sick pinnacle belay before the pitch.

 

 

On the summit. We descended the standard route to Anniversary Glacier. Its fast and obvious.

 

 

 

If you want safe climbing on good rock I'd go for this one instead.

[Pete_H]

That one had been on my list for a while but we never got around to it. I kind of suspected it would be a bit full-on for the grade. Suppose I could go look it up, but do you know who the first ascentionists were?

[Sol]

I always figured that route to be a classic canadian sandbag. Nice work!

 

Have you been on the north face of Viennese Marc? I'm more attracted to that face.

[JasonG]

I would recommend being able to onsight 5.12 on gear consistently and comfortably

 

Yowza. That narrows it down a bit.

 

Well done!

[olyclimber]

Proud of you Marc! Not kissing your ass, but I remember your humble days here, and you have truly become a bad ass.

[G-spotter]

Hey Marc are you sure you weren't on the Direct which goes at 11c?

[lunger]

Looks savory, thx for the report.

 

Yeah Pete as I recall we talked about this one but opted for Bardean instead--in hindsight suppose ok w/ that call. Would've missed the all-you-can-shovel breakfast in Dewdney too. I heart Dewdney.

[marc_leclerc]

Hey Marc are you sure you weren't on the Direct which goes at 11c?

 

After exchanging emails with Bruce it seems something like this may have happened. We climbed the same first pitch on the main pillar, but where the FA party did a 'rightward traverse with pins for pro' I led directly up a steep dark head wall with no pro at all. I'll draw a line if I have time. Sounds like the original line was no harder than 'stiff' 5.10, our second pitch was honest 5.11 X. It's a fun and rowdy lead but not one I would recommend to my friends, too easy to break a hold and utterly mangle yourself.

[Off_White]

As a bump, it would be nice to have the pictures back on this one