Bill_Simpkins Posted December 19, 2002 Share Posted December 19, 2002 Does anyone know if there has ever been a second ascent of Northwest Passage 5.9, A3 in Sqaumish? And what the condition of the route is in and if anyone has a detailed topo. I have vague topos from the two sqaumish books. I heard that the brush has grown in a lot since the first ascent, but thats all I know. I'm going to do some recon with a telescope this weekend. Any info is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 19, 2002 Share Posted December 19, 2002 Never repeated and with good reason (overhanging dirt and nailing pitons into a crack in a tree). However, Bald Egos crosses it and shares a pitch below Vulcan's Artery. The 5.8 rating is probably a sandbag or involves Beckey 5.8 climbing up a devils club to dyno for holds, and the a3(reported as a4 at the time) is probably a2 or a1+ nowadays. But I bet all the original bolts are rust streaks now to compensate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 19, 2002 Share Posted December 19, 2002 Bring some angles and kb's for the tree pitch. I heard it was a classic route. Only the 2nd ascent can tell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted December 20, 2002 Share Posted December 20, 2002 this part of the Grand Wall is prone to spontaneous rockfall from time to time. I dunno on what authority people say there's never been a 2nd ascent, the 1968 guide reads a bit like somebody else went up there. But I don't marinate myself in climbing history as much as others (Dru) so .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted December 20, 2002 Share Posted December 20, 2002 Good point. When climbing Seasoned in the Sun, just try to think of all those pockmarked scars in the rock as attempt to establish a solo face climb on either side of the crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 20, 2002 Share Posted December 20, 2002 The 1968 description is verbatim copy from Leif Patterson I think. The Smaill guide is funnier though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted December 20, 2002 Share Posted December 20, 2002 "Beckey says it's the most obvious line up the Grand Wall but statistics indicate a popularity nosedive." GS 1975 Viking helmets mandatory: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted December 21, 2002 Author Share Posted December 21, 2002 I'll jut get 3000 feet of cord and Jumar up it . Does that count? I'll try to get more beta tomorrow, if I'm not to busy yelling "Take" or "on Belay", or " yes, I would like fries with that". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted December 23, 2002 Author Share Posted December 23, 2002 I was in Squamish all weekend. We felt like the only ones climbing there. It was nice. We climbed all day Saturday at the Raven's Castle on top of the Chief. Clear and dry. Then a bit at Murrin, but it was rather chilli. As far as NWP goes, I need to do some of the routes around it first to get a first hand look. If we have enough time and money this Summer, who knows. I'll bring some grappling hooks and a chainsaw. Maybe some weedkiller too. Kidding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 24, 2002 Share Posted December 24, 2002 If you log and weedkiller NW Passage, I will zinc-oxide a huge clean streak up N face N peak of Index as counterbalance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted December 24, 2002 Share Posted December 24, 2002 Death to cliffside plants and trees! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted December 25, 2002 Share Posted December 25, 2002 kurt....seein your smiley sig.....where is fendel??? hmmmmm????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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