Ice Climbing Boarder Seeks Ski Boot Wisdom

[BLP]

I am a lifelong snowboarder who began ice climbing last season, renting tools and boots. Now that I'm sure this is something I want to really get into, I am looking to buy boots for winter. I also am learning to ski (sick of getting passed on snowshoes), so I am wondering if I can ice climb in Alpine Touring Boots? I am only 21 and I wanna nail the RIGHT set up the first time, as this stuff isn't cheap. I have read the Blog on C.C., but I'm hoping to get some specific set-up wisdom from Cascade Veterans.

 

I'm assuming most AT ski boots are crampon adaptable, but is it possible to climb water fall ice in them as well?

 

When one climbs a more technical route (Reid Head-wall, Liberty Ridge, etc) on a volcano and skis down, what is the boot of preference?

 

 

What are your guys set ups, and what compromises must be made in terms of weight/performance?

 

 

[genepires]

look at Dane's blogs. he has reviews on ski mtneering boots and their ability to ice climb.

 

There is a growing group of split boarders going hardboot. These boots are the same as the ski mtneering boots. dynafit TLT5 is a very popular ski mtneering boot and also works well with the splitboarders too. I have read that people have ice climbed well with them also.

 

I assume that you are wishing to ice climb in washington. I love washington for the variety of climbing but ice climbing we ain't got it. If you are looking for advice, forget about buying skiis and use that money to get in your car and drive to banff for a week. You will get more easily accessible, reliable, and safe (as ice climbing can be) ice climbing in one week that in a entire season of slogging through deep snow to 30 foot smears that may fall down at any time. or buy a ticket to ouray and get 10 pitches in every day easy.

 

If you want mileage on ice, you gotta travel to where the ice is.

[genepires]

it is also my humble opinion that a ice climbing boot will work much better than a ski mtneering boot for ice climbing, no matter what anyone says. Otherwise every ice climber would be wearing them, right?

[DPS]

I pretty much agree with Gene. No one pair of boots will be ideal for skiing, ski mountaineering and ice climbing. Climbing Lib Ridge or Reid Glacier Headwall and skiing down in AT boots is reasonable, but the climbing on these routes is not particularly technical. You really want a more sensitive boot for waterfall climbing. I own three pairs of ice climbing boots and two pairs of AT boots and that is probably on the low end compared to many folks' quivers. I guess my advice would be to get a good all around ice climbing/mountaineering boot now for this ice season and get your AT setup when you can afford it.

Edited September 15, 2013 by DPS

[tvashtarkatena]

I have Dynafit TLT 5 Mountains, and they work quite well for all of the above. Key features to watch for if you want to climb ice and BC ski - good fit (as always), a comfortable upright walk mode (you won't want to climb ice raked forward), relatively light weight but warm enough for the conditions you plan on ice climbing in. Such a boot will be light duty for aggressive resort skiers, however. Dynafit has the One series for folks with wider feet. They're a bit warmer, too.

 

AT boots have very narrow heels, as well. Check any boot with your crampons for fit.

 

You don't need a quiver to enjoy these various activities with a single AT boot. Not nowadays, anyways. Single full shank boots do climb a wee bit better IMO at the expense of some warmth, but that'll double your investment. FYI I have both. I prefer singles unless its cold enough to justify a double (AT) boot.

 

This all applies to conditions in WA, BTW.

Edited September 15, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[calamityinsanity]

if you are just starting at both(ice and ski), buy ski boots. they will make both more fun. tlt5's will climb up to wi4(doubtful you will go beyond this in your first season) just fine, and will be great for skiing. They will also be warm, and allow you to go skiing for real. I switch from nepal evo's to tlt5's when the temps go below -20c. This will be best suited for alpine ice, beginner ice climbs in the wi3-4 range and lots of skiing with friends!

The other alternative.... slightly cheaper likely, is to buy ice boots and silvrettas. this puts you on skis(scary, dangerous, prone to breakage.... as the haters will say, but lots of people get around fine), lets you approach ice, and will allow you to climb hard ice and mixed. This will be best suited for a primarily ice winter with an end goal of climbing vertical to overhanging technical routes.

The boots dont make that much of a difference to me. I find limited improvement from my 1980's koflach vario extrem's and nepal evo's, except that i can move my ankle a bit more and my feet are colder. Get good tools...... actually, just get nomics. full stop.

[spionin]

The other alternative.... slightly cheaper likely, is to buy ice boots and silvrettas. this puts you on skis(scary, dangerous, prone to breakage.... as the haters will say, but lots of people get around fine)

 

don't do it unless your approach is just a nice flat groomer. it's like skiing in flip-flops.

[Jason4]

I've been splitboarding on AT boots and plate bindings a bunch now and did a lot of reading on boots with that as my primary use. As was said the TLT5 is the current top choice if your foot fits in it and Dane has a lot of good stuff to say about ski mountaineering and ice climbing in those boots. My foot does not fit in the TLT5 and I couldn't find a boot fitter confident in getting it to fit when I was ready to buy boots. I'm hoping that things will be different with the TLT6.

 

I don't have much interest in vertical ice but I do enjoy getting out of my comfort zone ski mountaineering (or split-mo in my case).

[christophbenells]

i think the dynafit tlt's are about as good as theyre gonna get.

 

they are pretty good for volcano climbing. i wouldnt use them on waterfall ice, but it sounds like thats not what your going for.

 

a trip of mine in tlt's last year

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1104601

 

this guy did mt hood north face in his

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1100148

 

i know these arent the hardest routes but im pretty sure i could climb a little bit harder ice in them than i have.

[dave schultz]

i think the dynafit tlt's are about as good as theyre gonna get.

 

I agree, they have no real flaws unless they don't fit your feet or unless your feet get too cold in them. I have climbed a fair amount in mine in NH, NY, and the PNW with no real issues. They are a perfect alpine climbing and ski mountaineering boot, and I think that you can probably climb pretty hard vertical water ice if you are used to the feel.

 

As a side note, the new TLT6 is supposed to have an adjustable forward lean. The La Sportiva boots are probably pretty similar (no personal experiance), but there is not a as much of a following as with the TLT5s.

[BLP]

Awesome thanks for the advice guys, really appreciate it.

 

Cheers to a cold winter!

 

-Ben