mountaineering boots

[bedellympian]

Just sold a pair of Scarpa Phantom Guides (older red model) because they were really too big for my feet. Need a mountaineering boot but not sure what to get. I have the money from selling the PGs and thought about getting Spantiks... overkill for most stuff I know, but they feel really good on my feet, climb well, and they have the removable liners so I can use them on multi day winter trips and be fine.

 

Right now I have approach shoes and TLT5 ski boots so summer alpine rock routes and moderate winter routes with skiing are covered.

 

I live in Oregon so the gnarliest routes I will get on with these boots will be hard Hood routes in winter. That said I have family in Alaska and visit most years so I will have the opportunity to climb up there in summer.

 

Some of the routes I'd like to get on over the next couple years for which I will probably use these boots:

 

March Maddness, Illumination Rock (WI4/5)

North Face Right Gully, Mount Hood (IV, WI3)

Arachnophobia, Mount Hood (IV, 5.9 AI4)

Yocum Ridge, Mount Hood (IV, AI3, 60deg)

North Ridge, Mount Baker (III+, 70+deg)

Triple Couloirs, Dragontail Peak (III-IV, 5.8, 50+deg)

Liberty Ridge, Mount Rainier (V, AI3, 50deg)

North Face of North Peak, Mount Index (V, 5.7, steep mixed terrain)

 

I know people probably have multiple boots but I'd like to stick with one good pair for now.

 

Thoughts? Suggestions?

[dave schultz]

Your TLT5s are pretty bomber for ice. I have climbed many routes with TLT5s and they climb extremely well. It would probably suck to do an "approach" in them, though (I have a LS Trango lightweight boot and the Phanton Guide, so I have had the other options).

 

Why not get a pair of PG that fit?

 

The Spantic is an icredable boot, though it may not actually climb ice as well as you would think (no personal experiance, though). I do know a friend who was looking for a one-stop-shop for alpine/winter boots, and he went with the Spantic, and he has not been dissapointed, though he has not done a lot hard/technical ice climbing (mostly moderately technical volcano style climbing).

 

 

Hope this helps.

[bedellympian]

Thanks for the input Dave!

 

I had heard that the new PG is thinner and colder. I also read the Spantik review on the cc blog which compared it to Scarpa Phantom series and said the less rockered toe on the Phantom is a downer for approaches. Since you own a pair what is your experience? Do you have the new orange PGs or the older red model?

 

Anyone have experience climbing WI5 or M6 in Spantiks?

[Ben Beckerich]

I've got a pair of the the new Guides... They're not a winter boot, but they are warm for a single. They'll probably be pretty comparable to the ones you just got rid of... I didn't have the Guides in the red, but I did have a pair of the 6,000s in red, and they strike me as fairly identical, aside from color. My understanding is that they changed membranes, and adjusted the footprint.. I'm no boot expert, though.

 

I did do some winter climbing in them this season, even a couple overnight trips. I'd have no problem taking them on any of the routes you listed above (and have climbed some of those in them), if you climbed each during the normal season for each. I wouldn't do multi-night winter trips in them, but that's what my AT boots are for anyway.

 

My current lineup's just like yours - Lightweight summer boots, TLT5s, Phantom Guides... with the new thick liners I'm ordering for the TLTs, I think basically all of my bases are gonna be more than covered, this year.

[Ben Beckerich]

All that said, if you think you'll be doing long winter trips without skis (because you're insane, or under compulsion of gun.. masochistic, member of some heinous cult... ), then you will need a warmer boot- Spantik would be a great option, if your feet fit them. From what I've seen, you generally fit Scarpa or Sportiva, but only lucky men fit both.

Edited August 16, 2013 by Ben Beckerich

[calamityinsanity]

i use sportiva nepals year round for anything i dont do in approach shoes(nw WA, BC, and the rockies). broken in they hike great and are as warm as koflach double plastics. colder than -20c i have to keep wiggling, but otherwise great. Moisture management is done with two pairs of socks, switch when too moist and carry a bit of newspaper for at night

if its colder than -20 i wear tlt5's

[RafalA]

There are as lot of options out there for a gaitered single (or double) boot. Lowa, Zamberlan, Scarpa, Sportiva, Mammut, Millet, Salewa all make at least one model.

 

I have the new Phantom Guides and love them for everything from M9 to WI6. They're relatively light, warm and have proven to be quite durable despite a few extended Rockies talus scrambles. I'll happily use mine to -20 or so in the winter. I also think they're great for walking in and have done several approaches.

 

The Phantom 6000 (again, new version) climbs almost as well as the Guide. It is considerably warmer (have been in mine at -30 or so and was toasty warm even on belay). Due to it being a double boot, it cannot be laced as tight as the Guide, which contributes to minor movement of my feet in the boots when really pushing off. That said I've still had them on M8's and Rockies WI6 without issue.

 

As with many other pieces, buy the one that fits your feet best...

[CWC01]

I have Trango Evo's, P-Guides and the LS Siderail ski boots. For lower Cascade climbing and skiing that pretty much covers everything. I have had LS Nepals and the P-Guides are a huge improvement (warmth and dexterity). If I just had to have a pair of double boots I'd probably look at the Pantom 6000's (assuming they fit you) because they are nearly the same external volume and weight as the P-Guide.

 

Given your plans and location I would look at a warmer liner for the TLT's and pair of gaitor'd single boots. If you have to have doubles make sure you look at the Phantom 6000's in addition to Spantiks.

[ColinB]

I've got a pair of the Guides and 6000s. The 6ks are way warm for the Cascades but great for Alaska or the Canadian Rockies when its cold. I'm really happy with the Phantom Guides and would recommend them for local winter/spring stuff. They get super warm and I've sweated them out a bunch. Tons of similar stuff out there. Don't get Spantiks (or any other doubles) without a better quiver of boots for routine conditions down here.

[ScaredSilly]

For what you are listing I would say go back and get a pair of PG that fit. The Spantiks are complete over kill. If yer feet run cold then the 6000 would be a good boot. They are about 1/2" wider. I am current sussing out a pair of the Rebel Ultras which are even skinnier but have similar warmth as the PG.

 

What size of PG did you previously wear?

 

FWIW I have been in various Scarpa boots for some 15 years and really like the direction of their line of boots.

[bedellympian]

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

Scared: My PGs were 45s. Recently tried Spantiks and think I could wear a 43 comfortably. I was under the impression that 6000s and Spantiks were comparable in warmth and use. Is this not correct?

 

Now leaning toward a single boot, I guess, as it seems that would be more useful for me. I guess I can always wear vapor barrier socks and/or carry newspaper to keep the boot dry on multi-days.

 

I have a wide fore foot but otherwise its skinny with a high arch... not really sure if this lends towards Scarpa or Sportiva more, or some other brand.

[ScaredSilly]

The Spantiks and P6000 are probably similar with the Spantik a bit warmer. But the P6000 are lighter by 1/2 lbs and less bulky. Which is why I think the P6000 are a better boot.

 

Here is another option for you to think about. Put in a Superfeat insole in your boot. Something like the RedHot. Then wear a thicker sock. You might find after that the PG fit pretty reasonable. That is what I do.

[CaleHoopes]

I feel like the comparison between the Phantom 6000's and the Spantik's is a little too wide. I actually believe the Phantom 6000's compete directly with the Baruntse's better (and even on price). I feel like the Spantik sort of falls right between the Baruntse's/Phantom 6000 and the Phantom 8000's/Olympus Mons.

 

Anyhow, the Baruntse is a fine winter boot - I love it. It worked great on McKinley and I think it climbs pretty awesome.

 

The Phantom Guide is a fine boot that I love, but I also think it's not really a multi-day winter boot. Single day trip? Sure. Multi-day? Double boot it. Spantik is definitely warmer than all of these boots, but the Phantom Guide is nearer to the bottom of warmth in these mountaineering boots. I really like my Phantom Guides and I tried a lot of boots before I got to them. They climb Rainier fabulously and I can't wait to use them at Ouray. I wouldn't climb McKinley in them just because I'd be worried a bit about drying them out and the ability to warm liners in a sleeping bag makes a double boot much nicer.

 

Just my opinion.

 

What's funny? After a boot fitter, my Baruntse's fit awesome. However I couldn't make the Batura 2.0 work, so I ended up with the Phantom Guides for that level of boot. One manufacturer doesn't matter. Boot fit matters the most.

[bedellympian]

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Guess its time to grab my socks and go to the outdoor store.