[TR] Juno Tower - Clean break 7/22/2013

[caleb ng]

Trip: Juno Tower - Clean break

 

Date: 7/22/2013

 

Trip Report:

So Splitter!

 

Got on this route because of Juno's well deserved airtime given by Steph Abegg's latest TR.

 

executive summary: one of the best alpine climbs i've done - period.

 

one word... SPliiiiiiiiittttteeeeerrrrrrrrrr

 

to beat a dead horse again: hike in and run laps up that first pitch.... then everything else after is just a bonus... (or find that first pitch in a million different variations with no approach in squamish.)

 

Quick Notes:

 

camped on bench, and tried to look for water but since we didn't bring the guidebook, which said there was water, we searched everywhere thinking that we were SOL. Luckily, two girls descending that day had a guidebook, the directions of which said, follow faint trail to spring. Oh glorious bubbly spring of life for thirsty climbers.

 

awoke in the morning crossed col in tennis shoes and downclimbed the left side no problem. We only started to wonder if we should've brought crampons when we found another couloir we had to downclimb... luckily there was a big moat on the east side of the couloir that we chimneyed down. Otherwise I think there is a good chance we would have had to turn back.

 

couldn't really find the climb for a while... every buttress looked the same, and we just kept on walking. really should've brought guidebook. but if you keep walking south and making sure your splitter crack radar is turned on, you'll find it.

 

Route finding was not that tough: except the last few pitches above pitch 10 or so. i felt like i was lost the whole time. Even when i reached the before summit ledge and was looking for a 5.10 handcrack. I didn't find it.... then i came home, read a few trip reports and found out that no one else had found it either. It is possible all of us had climbed the wrong mountain. Unlikely, but possible.

 

If I could've done it again, probably would do silver star creek climb then descend via normal wine spires ... only because i feel it is just as long a day to do it how we did. ie. up the col and down multiple couloirs.

 

PS buy a petzl orange sirocco helmet. it's like wearing a Styrofoam cup on your head, and as heavy duty as one. Wearing a helmet has never felt better than Merino for your intimates.

 

 

Gear Notes:

No number 4 required.

 

one is stuck just where you need it.

 

reminiscent of stuart i'd say!

 

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Edited July 22, 2013 by caleb ng

[dberdinka]

The last 5.10 crack pitch in the Beckey Guide topo is all of 10' long. You didn't miss much. To bad they don't make those helmets in a color other than day-glo orange.

 

[tanstaafl]

 

Nice work! That is indeed a stellar climb.

 

Thinking of heading that way this coming weekend; how were the mosquitoes?

 

[caleb ng]

mosquito trauma was SO BAD.

 

 

 

[BootsandPants]

Nice! This one's on my short list.

 

Heading up to the spires next weekend and have been wondering whether or not to take the pons. Did you get a look up towards silver star from the col? Think we can get away with out the pons or should we just bite the bullet and bring them?

[JasonG]

I just wanted to offer congratulations on joining the sirocco club. There is no going back!

 

 

[Rad]

Headed up tomorrow and wondering if anyone can comment on whether you have to cross hard snow to get to the base if we approach from the Silver Star Creek side. Hoping not to bring ax or crampons.

Thx

 

[mneagle]

As of a few days ago, no mosquitos and no snow crossing at base of climb.

 

To get to the 5.10 finish, climb up to just below the obvious wide crack in the center of the tower and set up a belay on a small ledge. Traverse around the corner to the right for ~10 feet to a digedral where you need to do this funky double hand jam mantle to get your feet up and then use small holds to stand up and reach better holds. There's another 10 feet of easy climbing to the summit.

 

I've been up it twice now and I still think the crux is the thin corner above the 4" 5.9 crack. Seems harder than 10a and on thin gear.

 

Between the first time I climbed it 12 years ago and now, I still consider this one of the best routes I've done anywhere.