caleb ng

hahaha

Trip: New Hampshire - Cathedral Ledges Date: 10/13/2013 Trip Report: This trip's purpose was to bid farewell to a great partner and friend as our paths diverge and life takes us in different directions... again, a photo journal of east coast splitter granite can be found here: http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/ Gear Notes: East Coast People are SO nice. Approach Notes: 5 minutes

i'll climb still! but without a tick list, and hence less of a training mindset! and more of a leisurely endeavor!

Trip: Bugaboos - Beckey Chouinard Date: 9/22/2013 Trip Report: Last two climbs on a lifelong ticklist complete this year Pictures only http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/2013/09/02/beckey-chouinard/'>http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/2013/09/02/beckey-chouinard/ And since climbing to me has always been about the people rather than the climb; the career ending slideshow surrounded by my friends may have been as significant if not more so than the climb itself. See below http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/ Thanks for watching!

Trip: El Cap - The nose Date: 9/22/2013 Trip Report: Last two climbs on a lifelong ticklist complete this year Pictures only http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/2013/06/'>http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/2013/06/ And since climbing to me has always been about the people rather than the climb; the career ending slideshow surrounded by my friends may have been as significant if not more so than the climb itself. See below http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/ Thanks for watching!

always love your pictures. always

Trip: Nesakwatch Spire AKA Mini Bugaboos AKA paradise - Dairyland Date: 7/28/2013 Trip Report: Hello All! UMmmm okay... That last crack makes the first crack on Juno's clean break look like Choss! Just went to the most beautiful place on earth next to the bugaboos & next to yosemite. Dare I compare? again let me do this in hastily written bullet point style, since i want the time between information dissemination and people climbing in this joint to be as short as possible. 1) Views of Slesse/Baker/Shuksan and surrounding cascades were immensely mind boggling 2) Climbed the most beautiful crack I have ever set my eyes and paws on. Potentially a 65/70 meter splitter crack if followed in its entirety, starting with hands and ending in fingers. I split off where the hands end before the fingers start as i chose the early exit since i personally would've needed a quadruple rack haha. So has anyone done the finger crack exit? ( I might actually recheck this post to find out!! ) 3) Okee Dokee. Gotta say, i've never done a route with So little beta. I.e. I looked at the face and followed a line. Mark Leclerc gave me the recommendation and when I read his trip report combined with Becky's book, which called it the best line on the face [end of his beta], and I thought, "I think it is calling me." TOTALLY got lost in the mid part of the climb, ended up aiding up some c1+ foolery, got back on route whilst my trepidation subsiding, (YES, TREPIDATION) and finally saw perfect finger cracks line me up to the summit like a 747 at O'hare. When that particular finger crack deposited me at the most beautiful crack i've ever seen... well..... i took a picture. 4) Point FOUR. Apparently there is ethic of not revealing so much about the climbs here. Well, I for one am abstaining from that particular ethic, to a certain degree anyways. Why? Because such great climbing, and what i consider to be the most beautiful place on earth should be shared. Why? Because there are so many great climbs AND potential great climbs to be had, but I needed to nut tool out many of the crud for gear placements and i was hoping if you come ( yes you ) then it will turn into an alpine squamish. Lastly i solidified my stance when upon the descent, we met a prolific climber who mentioned that there was quite a 'upturned nose' attitude among some more better climbers to ward off the less seasoned, and that he agrees the whole area should see more traffic. Well i figure, I'm not going to post beta per say, but how about now some photos to complement marc's trip report!! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=902482 Hopefully that'll whet your appetite, and you know what? we were the only ones there for basically the entire weekend.. Hummm..........By the way if someone doesn't want beta, i guess they could just not search online for it.. I GUESS. whatdy'a think? ALL THE PICTURES HERE: http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/ p.s. how did i not know about this place as it is literally my backyard?! Gear Notes: #4 and doubles. Approach Notes: above 49th parallel kinda stuff needs a gondola

mosquito trauma was SO BAD.

Trip: Juno Tower - Clean break Date: 7/22/2013 Trip Report: So Splitter! Got on this route because of Juno's well deserved airtime given by Steph Abegg's latest TR. executive summary: one of the best alpine climbs i've done - period. one word... SPliiiiiiiiittttteeeeerrrrrrrrrr to beat a dead horse again: hike in and run laps up that first pitch.... then everything else after is just a bonus... (or find that first pitch in a million different variations with no approach in squamish.) Quick Notes: camped on bench, and tried to look for water but since we didn't bring the guidebook, which said there was water, we searched everywhere thinking that we were SOL. Luckily, two girls descending that day had a guidebook, the directions of which said, follow faint trail to spring. Oh glorious bubbly spring of life for thirsty climbers. awoke in the morning crossed col in tennis shoes and downclimbed the left side no problem. We only started to wonder if we should've brought crampons when we found another couloir we had to downclimb... luckily there was a big moat on the east side of the couloir that we chimneyed down. Otherwise I think there is a good chance we would have had to turn back. couldn't really find the climb for a while... every buttress looked the same, and we just kept on walking. really should've brought guidebook. but if you keep walking south and making sure your splitter crack radar is turned on, you'll find it. Route finding was not that tough: except the last few pitches above pitch 10 or so. i felt like i was lost the whole time. Even when i reached the before summit ledge and was looking for a 5.10 handcrack. I didn't find it.... then i came home, read a few trip reports and found out that no one else had found it either. It is possible all of us had climbed the wrong mountain. Unlikely, but possible. If I could've done it again, probably would do silver star creek climb then descend via normal wine spires ... only because i feel it is just as long a day to do it how we did. ie. up the col and down multiple couloirs. PS buy a petzl orange sirocco helmet. it's like wearing a Styrofoam cup on your head, and as heavy duty as one. Wearing a helmet has never felt better than Merino for your intimates. Gear Notes: No number 4 required. one is stuck just where you need it. reminiscent of stuart i'd say! [url=http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/][/url] http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/

Trip: Mamie Peak - Ellation Date: 9/3/2012 Trip Report: Hey! That was totally fun and always interesting. Needs some more traffic still to get rid of the inherent grittiness of a new climb. But who would've thought that I'd go south-east towards Baker to find a granite climb than North to Squamish? Is there anything else in that corridor? Hmmm. Some hollow sounding flakes that apparently aren't going anywhere. Some hollow sounding chunks that apparently were going somewhere whereby we dutifully tossed them to the valley floor. The bolting was well done whereas I felt that no whipper would've been traumatic, yet bolted far enough that my idea of a Diedre-like jaunt up a cliff was an underestimation. Well done to the FA's! Don't fret about the 5.11 rating as the free move was just that, one free move of 5.11 that was short & painless. One should be more concerned about whether your Slab-work software is up to date. There was some trickery, and some foolery too. Approach Notes? Go towards the big boulder and do not follow the creek up too far until the end. We did this and had to bushwhack our way into find the trail. We easily found the trail on the way out, but would've been hard on the way in as it is all overgrown now! I ask people I run into from Bellingham if they know of this climb and always I have been met with blank stares. Hopefully through time more people will find their way to this funny climb in a pristine wilderness! 3 pictures.. http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/2012/09/03/mamie-peak-ellation-wa-5-11/ http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/2012/09/03/mamie-peak-ellation-wa-5-11/

mini-matterhorn!! that makes sense.

Naw. It actually would be an amazing route to Solo. Good Holds, Good Rock, Straight Forward In fact. Just that I'm not a soloer

Trip:Squamish - LINKUP of Rock On/Squamish Buttress/Angel's Crest Date: 08/14/2012 Trip Report: Normally I don't post anything about Squamish climbing, because I feel like cascade climbers is more a place for Alpine routes. But this August, my good friend Christian and I linked these 27 pitches in 12 hours car to summit. I know this is nothing spectacular by any means, knowing the actual linkups that people do in Squamish. But the fact remains that it was Christian's first year doing multi-pitch and also following trad, and he styled it as if he had been climbing for years. It just so happens that Christian wrote a diary about the day, with all the feelings & emotions germane to a bigger climb in an early stage of one's climbing life. It gives me pure joy to introduce one to new aspects of the sport and to be returned an infectious energy. If you're thinking linkups this would be a great one to get in to! -Rock on, with a 70 meter rope, you can cut down into 3 pitches pitch 1 and 2, pitch 2 and 3, pitch 4,5,6 -Squamish Buttress 10c has no pin anymore surprisingly, but protects great so I don't know why there was one to begin with. -we left the car in the grand wall parking lot and drove to angel's crest to save time. -there are a couple of pitches on the crest that you can link as well - too many guidebook descriptions to give you a proper pitch by pitch. Anyways here is Christian's write up: It’s Thursday morning, the 30th of August, 2012, the phone suddenly rings. I hear my mate and climbing partner on the other end. With slight hesitation and uncertainty, Caleb announces ‘Lets do it!’. I pause for a brief second and reply ‘Wow!.... okay, lets do it’. Tomorrow on this full moon, we hoped to be standing atop of the Stawamus Chief, towering some 702 meters above the beautiful Squamish Valley below. Our new project would require us completing - Rock On into The Squamish Buttress, followed by another challenging multi-pitch on Angels Crest. We would stand atop of the second largest, granite monolith, not once, but twice in one day. This massive rock would await our eagerness - ultimately testing our climbing endurance and mental stamina. Later that night, while lying in the warmth of my sleeping bag, I push aside all thoughts that may try to creep into my minds eye. I gaze at the bright moon, slightly hidden through trees but exposed to the cool night sky and allow myself to drift further into darkness with every breath. Hours pass, when suddenly a friendly voice awakens my still body. I signal him with a thumbs up, confirming my commitment to the big day which lay ahead. I slept soundly under the nights sky, only to be woken by my swollen bladder on two occasions. Was it nerves?, I’m not really sure. I only hope my climbing partner drifted into the same abyss as I had earlier, however past stories remind me, that Caleb would have only had thoughts for what lay ahead tomorrow. On this fine Friday morning, we enjoy breakfast under the stillness of mixed cloud and shining moonlight. With the final preparations been made to our provisions, we set off under perfect conditions. Now in the forest and under headlamp, we find our own rhythm which eventually leads us to the base of the south gulley. Looming above us, awaits a beautiful six pitch route, known to climbers as Rock On, which makes for an excellent start to the very popular Squamish Buttress. With hearts now pumping, bodies steaming and our eyes wide awake, we prepare for our first pitch of thirteen. Caleb reminding me, that we take this on, one pitch at a time. I wish my mate and climbing partner ’Fun times’, and reassure him that I have him safe, ‘Locked and Loaded’, is my reply. Caleb begins moving on the rock with total precision and perfect style. With every piece of protection he secures and with each minute passing, more daylight slowly creeps onto the rock face, exposing the beautiful Squamish Valley below. Before long, sunlight is upon us both. Have we missed our window of opportunity? Or will we succeed to mark our next big adventure together. Continuing up, we thoroughly enjoy the movements Rock On has to offer. We eventually reach the Squamish Buttress, knowing full well, of what was expected of us. A difficult 10c pitch separates us from the top of peak one – almost our halfway point. Looking ahead of Caleb, I notice that an important piece of protection may be missing. Had I misread its location? Then my leader affirms my uncertainty. Caleb yells, ‘The piton has been removed, what the’? But who would remove such a crucial piece of protection? A piton that had possibly been there since the first pioneers laid down this route back in 59’. Already committed to the climb, Caleb lets out a few words of frustration and doubt, as I quickly reassure him, you can do it mate! After minutes of fighting his way to the top, Caleb moves over the last few feet of rock and tops out on the Buttress. “Well done mate!” I shout. As squawks of joy ring out and echo through the valley. Some moments later, I am atop, completely exhausted and totally pumped. We celebrate with a smile and I congratulate him on a great lead. I lick my wounds after a tough struggle with this pitch. ‘No time to hang around though’, Caleb kindly reminds me. ‘We need to keep moving.’ At moments during our struggle, different emotions creep in, and try play havoc with our minds. These obstacles are in place to help test our will and push our limits, but they only encourage us to keep going. When the rock demands our very best, and tiredness wants to encapsulate our being, we gain strength through one another. Working closely as a team, we individually move in silence. While alone in our own thoughts, we battle with our own demon, the likelihood of falling. Even though we climb with a safety line, both of us refuse the temptation of giving up on the fight. To be assisted by the rope, just once, would set us up for future falls. Most climbers believe that free climbing a route is the only pure form of climbing. To conquer it, it must go free. To maintain our mental clarity, each hand and foot placement is made with perfect precision and purpose. Being in the moment is all we know now. Upon reaching the summit we look for the trail that will return us to the base, where we started some five hours earlier. With speed and caution we descend the almighty Chief, as an injury here would certainly throw us off course. At base camp we restock our provisions, down the liquid of one coconut each and drive to the trailhead marked Angel’s Crest. The next 14 pitches will provide us with one of the longest and most adventurous multi-pitches the Chief has to offer. With time so precious, Caleb quickly announces our plan of attack for the next leg of our journey. Before I realize though, the car comes to a complete halt and the door to the trunk opens like the cage at the starting blocks to a dog race. I quickly jump out and we once again find our rhythm, in an all too familiar place, back in the forest. This time though our bodies are not so fresh. Our legs scream out for mercy, as our hearts race, and our lungs struggle to keep up with the steep terrain of switchbacks. We stop at times only to satisfy a need for more oxygen. My mind suggests that this is what SAS selection may feel like, if we were to ever apply. Struggling as we were, it doesn’t even come close to measuring up to the feats of alpinism. A style of climbing that demands various types of skill and experience. On our rock, we were totally safe from frostbite, had plenty of food, and would not spend weeks suffering in the mountains. These are only a few of the many visible dangers that I have only ready about, all tied in to the world of mountaineering. I push on, motivated by the thought that others have suffered far worse. Upon reaching the foot of Angel’s Crest, I feel my beating chest and reassure my heart that the uphill struggle of the hike is now finally over, and climbing can now recommence. Slowly this brings life flooding back into my weary body. As he prepares and slips on his dancing shoes again, I strip off my layers of clothing, first the helmet, then my thermal top. I desperately feel the need to cool my body down. Before I have time to fully regain my composure, Caleb is off again, making the uphill climb safe with each piece of protection he places. I rest, while Caleb makes small work of our first pitch. Often repeating my mantra ‘Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels, meaning I have him locked in and safe, so enjoy the climb buddy. This time though, as we set off for the top, peak two will be our celebration point. Minutes into the first pitch of Angel’s Crest, while belaying Caleb, I feel the ground beneath me move with each breath I take. I steady myself as I begin to realize what is slowly happening in my body. My head feels light, my vision slightly blurred. ‘Have I cooled my body too quickly’, I asked myself. I wiggle my toes to desperately send blood back to my head, and focus heavily on each breath, filling my lungs completely with each inhalation. I take a sip of water, put on a dry shirt and strap on my helmet again. Moments later, as quick as it came, my feeling of light-headedness moves on. Caleb is nowhere to be seen on the rock, hidden somewhere above, completely oblivious to what is happen to his climbing partner below. I breathe an extra sigh of relief, knowing I don’t have to yell up to Caleb and inform him of my situation. As passing out while on belay, would put us both at risk. Once he reached the first anchor system and put me on belay, I feel ready to climb again. I move over the rock, with slight uncertainty and caution. Checking in with myself every step of the way. I knew my body was still struggling when I had left behind a crucial piece of gear on the first pitch, with having to go back down to retrieve it. I push all thoughts aside, trying not to think that we still had 13 pitches to complete before we reached our goal. With the song ‘All you need is love’, by the Beatles, stuck firmly in my mind, we continue on up, making good progress through linking pitches, saving valuable time on the clock. I fall back into my rhythm again, singing loudly, I enjoy the varied movements the rock has to offer. Somewhere around the half way point of Angel’s Crest, I join Caleb again, this time asking him casually ‘Who’s bloody idea was this’. With a smile, he replies, ‘ Today we are putting all our training to the ultimate test’. I relish in this thought, and it reminds me of words I have used to others in past times. I appreciate that I have found a younger version of myself here in Vancouver, so far from home. A man who shares in similar passions, has a real taste for adventure, values safety, but is not afraid of pushing his limits. I lean against the rock and imagine what sleep would feel like now. I briefly close my eyes. ‘No time for rest Christian, we need to keep moving’, echo’s through my mind. The Beatles fade out, as quickly as they had begun playing. Two pitches separate us from the top, and we can both taste victory. We can’t get complacent though, safety is back down on flat ground, where we left the car. I never thought I would ever wish a climb to be over. But this experience would bare witness to that very thought. Caleb crawls out onto a narrow ledge and worms his way up the chimney. He makes easy work of this last fun pitch and yells down from above, ‘Off belay’. I get ready to join him for the final few meters that would place us only a short walk from the top of peak two. Moments later I top out and join him at our last anchor point. Both exhausted and ready to eat, we congratulate each other and follow the trail to the peak. With sun shining on our smiling faces, we collapse down by the cliffs edge and relish in the moment. Looking out over the entire Squamish Valley, we both knew we had completed our goal. We had been victorious in our achievement, having free climbed all twenty-seven pitches in one day. We pushed our limit and came up triumphant. What’s next on our hit list, who knows? What do you think Caleb? For me, I’m just waiting for that next big phone call. My reply of course, Lets do it mate!!!! Site https://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/ Approach Notes: Flip Flops

Trip: Gimli - South Ridge Date: 8/12/2012 Trip Report: Yah… one of the most striking lines I’ve ever seen anyways…. Amazing that such a relatively simple line can ascend it. Also… What’s great is that it is relatively sustained the whole way at the 5.9 level. Also Very Very Very Cool Rock. Reminded me of Tuolumne more than anything! Every time you thought you would run out of places to place a piece, a spot appears. My favorite part of the climb? There will be an amazing lie back finger crack SOMEWHERE there, which will make you say ‘oooo,’ ahhh….. Pictures

Trip: Mount Sir Donald - North West Ridge Date: 8/8/2012 Trip Report: Mount Sir Donald – Northwest Ridge – III 5.4 – 10 774′ Anyone who has ever driven up to Roger’s pass on a good day has seen this mountain and has probably said to themselves, “WHAT IS THAT PIECE OF GLORY !?!?!!” And if you haven’t, and you want to see the Matterhorn of Canada, you ought to do yourself a favor by a) driving up there b) and be able to climb heaps of 5.4 proficiently so that you don’t leave not having become intimate with the beauty. This 50 Crowded Classic is worth all the trouble in the world to scramble up. The position is tremendous & the stone, precious. In fact, this route is more infinitely bliss than Mt Garfield could ever provide. We simuled the whole thing in 3 hours.. the rappels were tedious. It would be a great one to solo, though I think it would be quite scary. I don’t think I would ever do it anyways. Pictures!

Trip: Mount Temple - East Ridge Date: 8/4/2012 Trip Report: Sooooooo… Such a great climb really deserves much better pictures and a much better write up than this. If you aren’t into bad write-ups and even worse pictures, this post isn’t for you. TIPS: 1) Don’t buy a 80 dollar wal-mart Camera, because you think the quality difference is negligible. These are the WORST pictures I have ever seen in my life in terms of quality. Take in to consideration that 80% of the pictures I took are indecipherable as to what is what. The quality was that bad. 2) Don’t write about your trip many months after, when you haven’t climbed in a long while and have totally forgotten about any of the good feelings that climbing big mountains often brings. But as I write, 3 months after the climb, I am… very focused on other aspects of life. Semi-Permanently? I’m not sure. Yet I felt I should close off this curent chapter by at least somewhat chronicling this climb so that 20 years down the road when I actually am inspired to write, I won’t have forgotten everything. Maybe life is changing. Maybe less big mountains. But at the end of the day, I’ll always return to look, to play, to gather myself. So cheers to bullet points: first Canadian Rockies climb (first time to the Rockies too) was very very long. we climbed for 24 hours straight (think of the calories!!!!) WHAT A LINE?!?!?!!???! Advice: PLEASE DO NOT think that a 5.7 in the rockies is a 5.7 at exit 32. ALSO DO NOT think that a 5.7 in the rockies is a 5.7 at index or Squamish or anywhere else for that matter. OMG … 5.7!!!??!?!?! OMG … people climb in the rockies??? OMG … this is one of the best LINES in terms of Rock Quality in the ROCKIES??!?! OMG x 10 I am not sure I will be climbing very much in the Rockies anymore. So anyone who climbs in the rockies…. every hat I own is off to you. Yah.. the black towers? Ever climb in a sandstone quarry? Since I have nothing to prove except to myself; yes I thought i was going to die on that summit ridge. (And I’ve only thought I would die on 2 other mountains.) The snow was sooooooo ISOTHERMAL, crampons wouldn’t bite; ice axe wouldn’t have arrested a fall, of which a fall would’ve landed you in Lake Louise village. I couldn’t find any ice for screws, not even deep deep down – probably should have bivied. But luckily the party in front bravely kicked steps as we somehow made it to the summit, lightning not too imminent illuminating around us. Got back to the car at 4 a.m. the descent feeling as if one had no hobbies while living in Eternity. Can’t believe we made it. This has definitely made it in that ‘ bigger climb ‘ category. Yah.. big mountains? Maybe we should just stick to rock. haha…. Laura, she says it like this: scabbed hands scraped and bruised hands grip the pen with love. blood and dirt on hands and mud under finger nails write each word with vivid recollection of: Lose rocks and fateful scree Of vain jams Of a dirty rope passing through sore fingers Of cold wet gloves and slushy hands gripping, too hard, on the axe, plunging too deep into icy slush Offering no ounce of reassurance These hands eagerly write about that night: And halfway across the summit glacier the sun said good bye. Darkness fell and four head lamps flickered on. We continued through that iso-thermal shit, on moderate angle with wild exposure—ridge life. While the image of the sunset still lasted in my mind’s eye, I took a look behind, and behold The moon! A dark, bold orange, ascending strongly into the sky, she watches us carefully as we slowly progresses across the snowfield. Five more feet and then I turn around again. To the north lightning flashes, illuminating the clouds with that same strong orange that was the moon’s. The lightning show continues with awe striking sheets Then a bolt! It struck a peak far off, but In my mind the storm traveled to our ridge. And I imagined the great serge of energy, electricity, mystery and might striking me. . . I felt no joy in dying, which was surprising, for what a romantic way to go, being struck from the very heavens we hope to return. What a majestic way, yet there was no peace within my soul. Almost angrily I contemplated this beautiful thought of death, I did not want to die. I was not beautiful enough to die. My attitude was often foul and my manners ill. I did not want to die on a day when I took beautiful from life and returned it with ugliness. I do not want to die until I learn to live in harmony, to create peace, to carry joy and to give glory to God-the creator of mountains and valleys, of storms and of stillness, of friendships, of self, of life and of death. And then I will welcome any laugh of lightning or grinning crevasse. PICTURES Pictures http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/2012/08/03/mount-temple-east-ridge-ab-iv-5-7-11624/

Fantastic shots Jason! Do you bring an SLR with you??? Wow

Ahhh such kind words! Thank you!

Hold broke Jason!?!??! - crazy!!!

Trip: Slesse - NE Butt Date: 9/26/2012 Trip Report: Anyone who has seen my TR's knows i don't really give a good 'trip report' but if anyone is interested with our nemesis the pocket gone, we had at 'er! Slesse! https://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/

Jason, i can't believe you saw that! sometimes life seems to smile upon me, and there is much more opportunity than skill required in these situations let's get together soon, i'll be in touch!

Trip: Chianti Spire - Rebel Yell Date: 7/2/2012 Trip Report: I DIDN'T SUMMIT!!!!!! The mountain I didn't summit!!!!!!! What a despicable shame! And now I'm spraying online like I'm some champion of sorts; just ridiculous if you ask me. Of all my favorite fruits; plumbs aren’t there. Of all my favorite lines, it’s got to be plumb. Next to you lovers of the Alpine; my experience runs thin. Taking the previous statement into account, is it so bad that I am enamored with this line and that I am about to say… One of my favorite lines in the North Cascades!!!!! One piece of advice – go climb it! A piece of observation, not tied to the first piece of advice. It had a finger crack. A chimney. A overhanging hand crack (thin hands + fat hands + perfect hands) and the crack that splits the headwall? A Delicious Offwidth! MMMMMMMMM So what more can I say to add to any trip report prior. How can I add value? There is some snow at the base of which you have to surmount. Secondly, people say that first chimney is well protected with small pieces. I ran it out like 15 meters, and all these years I thought I was a CAM technician. I must have been blinded by the white snow, and/or too impatient to fight the Offwidth above. Then after I fought the Offwidth – the party below us gave me a big cheer. One guy’s name was Brad and the other guy I forgot – (HE LOOKS AND CLIMBS LIKE PETER CROFT) (wait, was it Croft?) (nah, couldn’t be.) Got to the summit and didn’t REALIZE that the actual summit was the half-a-kitchen-table 15 feet off the deck. I considered climbing up to check it out but didn’t want since I was kind of tired having run out of Twizzlers half way through the climb. Also I didn’t want to down climb it. Later we were told that there was an old bolt you could rap of at the top??!!? I TOTALLY COULD’VE DONE IT. (As I write I’m at that warm coffee shop ‘Woods’ next to Boulevard Park in Bellingham, two weeks after the climb, having not climbed since, which explains my current delusion) We rappelled down and ran into the guys of whom were super cool. They gave us a present of a 7 second time-lapse of our life, which I’ve attached. Thanks to Laura, Brad, and this fourth friend who I feel terrible for not remembering his name. If anyone knows his name, PLEASE SEND ME A PRIVATE MESSAGE. And thanks to all of you for letting me not take myself very seriously. Yours, Caleb. PHOTOS/VIDEO [url=https://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/][/url] https://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/ Many more photos Gear Notes: I brought a 4 and a 3.5 - the 3.5 didn't fit in the offwidth. blah. if you want to top rope the whole Offwidth then bring one 4 and walk it, or bring two if you want to protect it by not walking. Approach Notes: Shoes

Trip: Grand Teton - Complete Exum Date: 8/30/2011 Trip Report: “Dah!” Zion is much too hot. “I’ve got it and it’s on our way home – the Grand Teton!” “Gasp,” she said, “Gasp,” I said. It was by all means an impromptu decision, made on the cuff. For when the stars align, one chooses that which is most obvious. The stars being in this case, our proximity to the Tetons after a wedding in Utah, the unforgivable heat of Zion’s heat baked walls, and a near perfect forecast, and our own tenacity coming off the backs of three beautiful climbs combined with a retreat-like Jon Nellermoe wedding for recovery. Perfect ingredients for success mind you so then we packed ol’ twenty- year old Jellybean and puttered our way to Wyoming preparing for a mountain that turned me back once upon a time only by looking upon its snowy peaks. Mental preparation was critical! How could one not convert to some sort of outdoor enthusiast upon arriving in Jackson? It’s as if Conrad Anker could be hanging out on a street corner, no corner in particular. Knowing of some of the prestige carried by the Exum guides, and also that this was their base in this historical climbing area made it all the more special. The excitement built as we visited the local climbing shop and beta mined, buying a guidebook in due course upon encountering one employee’s zest for life. I looked forward to returning to Jackson without anxiousness in my being. Side note. One of the greatest misconceptions I had were generalizations about Rangers who had ticketed me before for stepping on a cauldron in Yellowstone. I did not like them and meeting the climbing ranger in the Tetons, of who issued our permits, changed everything. These guys were hardman-climbers, lovers of the mountains, and one of them Remy, who wrote the Teton equivalent to Becky’s guide to the PNW mountains, was a ranger himself. The Teton rangers were the cream of the crop by embodying conservancy in nature and in climbing, boldness, and I knew there helpfulness down low would translate into if necessary, aptitude and willingness up top. We hiked up to the lower shoulder from ~6000 to 11650 ft during our day leaving in the late morning and leisurely hiking what seemed to be the longest approach of our lives. It sure was a beautiful, but I knew I was having trouble breathing since even at Tuolumne’s 9000 feet of elevation was not enough to prepare me for hauling a big pack over 11000 feet. We arrived to fine a full on gale at the shoulder, the gale reaching it’s upper limit speed in its definition. I was minutely distraught since there was a great chance that we would be turned around the next day on our limited time frame if the wind were too maintain it’s strength. It was reminiscent to the speed of the wind atop Mt Baker, if not more, making it the strongest winds I had ever encountered, so much so that it was impossible to do a reconnaissance of where our route would start. It was difficult to walk a few steps let alone pee without any significant collateral damage. Crawling into our bivies, we would wait for the morning to decide. The night was long, the wind having made for a terribly noisy night, and at each arousal made me sure that any chance for summit bid would be denied. Pushing our bodies into the wind, we made it to the route’s base before the any dawn had arrived. It was pitch black, we knew not if we were at the right place, and the wind was relentless. I told Laura that we should be ready to pull the plug. And when dawn did hit, we scrambled up a long ramp, I saw a crack and for some inexplicable reason, the wind felt as if it’s 60 mile per hour gusts had turned into a…. 55 per mile gust. Something told me that it’d be okay to climb and we racked up, put on heatless shoes with no degree of malleability and started up the first pitch in full alpine garb. This truly would be an alpine ascent!!! Route finding was in a few sections difficult because the Granite was unlike Bugaboo or Squamish splitters. It yielded many possibilities with no distinct chalk marks. Knowing that I could be off route, and the very possible chance of thunderstorms that the Tetons are known for put me on edge for a long time. Then when hitting gold wall where the 5.7 lay, I didn’t imagine it to be what I consider the hardest 5.7 that I’ve ever climbed; good protection but not much, thoughtful, yet considerably tricky moves. Luckily, the favor of weather was on our side as the wind had become very bearable and had died down to a breeze with a few strong gusts. Therein finishing the headwall pitches we hit wall-street and became hopelessly lost wandering up the sea of granite and progressively became less sure about our position on the Upper Exum. Down climbing several routes we had climbed up on numerous occasions made me realize any more of this and we could be hopelessly stuck. We had been the only ones on the Complete Exum and those who were guided up the Upper Exum had reached their summit and continued down Owen Spaulding on the other side of the mountain. We would be alone. The altitude was starting to really tax the body also. Suddenly, we saw someone far away on the ridgeline and knew that if we could reach that ridgeline albeit lost at the moment, we would be okay. A weakness in the mountain gave us a clue to how we would arrive and we started upwards, and finally when reaching the ridge, we saw a cairn, false summit, but joy nonetheless since we were back on route. But a bit longer, and we had reached the summit in Jubilation! ! ! We looked over to Yellowstone and saw the geyser’s producing oodles of steam and beyond that, plains of warmth and respite as far as the eye could see! We were alone on the summit, and the joy was short lived as the celebratory affair became replaced by getting off the summit. Lucky for us, a convoluted descent was offset by us hightailing it as fast as we could to the last party ambling down. One of the guys leading it had climbed Everest and his leadership gave me a sigh of relief. It was 1a.m. when we hit the ground back at the car. I was destroyed! .. my body ached but we had done it as a team. WE MADE IT! We completed the Grand – Exum Complete on what started off as a whim. Although not a climb that I would put in my top ascents for climbing aestheticism, the mountain had produced many sets of complications I had never faced that made me stronger as a climber, and challenged my mind in numerous ways. In terms of mental challenge it produced; it is no less difficult and can be compared to the night spent on the Diamond on Long’s and the near death on the Bugaboo Spire. It feels like after having climbed this mountain though, that I get to be a part of a rich history and legacy that great mountaineers have left behind. To celebrate – Snake River Brewing has(d)? one of the most delicious porters in the world http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/

Trip: Fairview Dome - Regular Route Date: 8/26/2011 Trip Report: A long awaited return to my favorite part of the world, the High Sierra of California. It is now three years in a row that I have packed the car to go south for the purpose of seeking out Sierra Gold. Eureka! Initially Yosemite signs direct you off the I-5 from Sacramento spiking excitement levels, but also doubt that such a sublime setting could truly exist. More towards the valley, any lingering doubt is slowly annulled as farmlands turn into steep passes, and the unmistakable smell of Sierra pines floods the nostrils, and the cool dry air that has been swirling for ages among granite hills breezes over those little hairs on your arm. I remember so clearly now what I’ve been missing, I am home, a home among homes! The memory of the sensations felt when all seems to be in unison fade over time without my permission and they don’t even ask. But the love of a place does not fade because I always remember it as the cause of Joy. The Sierras for me, what then for you? You’ll have to see them, the big granite domes, the high elevation buttresses, the striking pinnacles, and the walls that span to the sky, oh even the Valley is worth seeing, tourists and all. I think it is a blessing to be alive. How blessed we are, able bodies, challengeable spirits, youth to boot. Twenty-Six and already the years pass by faster seemingly faster than yesterday to today. It doesn’t make sense so much, time nor life, nor why things are, some but not completely. But when sitting on top of such a beautiful dome, and one looks out the expanse, Conness, Daff, Cathedral, and beyond, I realize that the Sierras are my retreat. It is a place where like wayfarers before me, accompanied perhaps with climbing cords, some with film, and others with a pen have materialized masterpieces by returning to His unspoiled world. OoooOOOoooo; my first time to Tuolumne, our mirth is uncontainable! Fairview is the preeminent dome of Tuolumne, where the climbing history of the Regular line is rich. How such a long blank face is scalable without direct aid is unbelievable until the climber climbs. He climbs to discover that in fact, blank sections are peppered with dear chicken heads, and big ledges to dihedrals that are easier than they look. Even the harder pitches will go when one uses some tact in foot placement on polished edges. The rock is gentle, the upper pitches cruiser, and with a moderate pace and no thunderheads in the distance, it makes for a potentially highly positive outing. Being the first on the rock gave us clear sailing for the entirety of the route. Oh and by the way, Sierra granite has a distinct smell. Only after repeat visits, do the olfactory become accustomed to the scent. Repeated jams help to seal it into your hands. Does anyone know of what I speak about? There’s already been ascents of Sierra Granite, won’t someone create a scent named “Sierra Granite.” Perfect! The first day completed, and a few remain before we make our way out east to Utah for a friend’s matrimonial celebration. What to climb? The options abound and the gears begin to spin as we contemplate efforts, permits, and weather. Forget it. Let’s think about it in the morning because it’ll come when it does. https://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/

Trip: Matthes Crest - North to South Summit Date: 8/24/2011 Trip Report: One sexy outing! Treading in the footsteps of giants, and to think many of the old time pioneers never thought twice about employing any sort of safety measures past strength and skill. And to further think that the North-South Summit traverse is only half of the entire climb. Sure perhaps if I knew the route’s every difficult step, it might be fathomable. But then, even then does un roped climbing scare the wits outta me. Simuling mostly all of it, the tricky sections were as follows: Finding the easy line of resistance to enter the traverse, then climbing a bit too high on the north summit and having to down climb a bit to traverse around to get to the notch. Then a “5’7″ Fingercrack (?) Otherwise, it’s a ridge. Haha. Not much to say, except for having the whole ridge to ourselves for most of the day until we encountered another party coming our way as we climbed up the North Summit. The views are incredible, to complement a climb with an unquestionably unique character. For this reason, every pilgrim climber must set his or her eyes upon Toulumne up high on this sterling masterpiece. Skip along, crawl like I did in parts, and don’t try to write a proper trip report. How can one describe a ridge, nonetheless, a near perfect one? Up and down it goes of course, but the only apostrophes in the experience are pure moments of bliss. And then the day’s biting wind reminds the climber that it’s time to rap off tatty sling on to the leeward, windless, sun baked side. Yes we were somewhat tired, and now we were off, back to the car. Hiking past mount Cathedral lit by the setting sun, many deer of whom stopped in their tracks, perking their ears to identify positively our presence. It was a good-day, a great day and such days that when our bones are brittle and our hair thin, that we may look back to and will turn any bleak moment into a grin. https://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/